Emmons-Winthrop 5/30/26

The Emmons-Winthrop route is in good shape and has been providing climbers with a generally straightforward and direct line to the summit. As always, this is an unmaintained wilderness glacier route and conditions can change quickly with warm weather, wind, clouds, and daily melt-freeze cycles among other factors. Teams should continue to make their own terrain assessments, especially around crevasse crossings and snow bridges.

A route to the Summit on 5/30

The trail to Glacier Basin is nearly completely clear of snow. The Inter Glacier still has decent coverage with fairly planar surface conditions on our spring snowpack. Moats are beginning to become more pronounced, though no open crevasses have been observed on the Inter Glacier at this time. 

After crossing the Inter Fork near Glacier Basin

Looking up at the Inter Glacier

At Camp Schurman, climbing rangers and volunteers have been busy digging out the ranger station and bathrooms. Both bathrooms are now open and operational. However, there is not currently a Blue Bag barrel at Camp Schurman. Parties should plan to pack out all blue bags in addition to their trash, and waste. Pack it in - Pack it out!

Approx Route on 5/30

Above Camp Schurman, the route is generally direct. Surface conditions have been firm with a diurnal and variable melt freeze crusts below 12,000ft and wind-packed cold snow higher on the route. Warm weather over the past several weeks has affected the snow below 12k.

Between 11,900 feet and 13,100 feet, there are five to six notable crevasses beginning to open. Some parties have chosen to place pickets to protect their rope team through these crossings. Teams should take time to evaluate each crossing, consider the consequences of a snow bridge failure, and use appropriate rope travel and protection techniques for the conditions they encounter.

~11,900' (Taken 5/30)

~12,150' (Taken 5/30)

~12,400' (Taken 5/30)

~13,100' (Taken 5/30)

Above 13,000 feet, the route remains direct toward the summit. The bergschrund is currently well bridged, allowing for a more direct line than is often possible later in the season.

There have also been many successful ski descents of the Emmons and Winthrop Shoulder routes recently. That said, firm conditions and variable melt-freeze surfaces have created challenging conditions for skiers. There have already been incidents this season of skiers falling large distances after losing control. Skiing Rainier is a serious undertaking that requires more than expert skiing ability. A high degree of skill and experience in traditional mountaineering, glacier navigation, and crevasse rescue is essential. Parties are advised to not blindly follow old ski tracks, as conditions may have changed or other parties may not have taken a safe route. Falls in this terrain can be highly consequential or fatal.

Skiers should be prepared to take skis off and rope up when conditions or terrain require it. Teams should carry the equipment and have the practiced skills needed to deal with an un-roped crevasse fall, protect exposed crossings, and transition safely between skiing and climbing.

Warm weather and strong sun will continue to change the route. Climbers and skiers should expect snow bridges, moats, and surface conditions to evolve quickly through the day and from one day to the next. Start early, manage overhead and crevasse hazards carefully, and be prepared to adjust your plan if conditions have changed.

Ingraham Direct Route Update 6/2/26

    

Looking up from Ingraham Flats. The Ingraham Direct is center frame, the Disappointment Cleaver is the climber's right.  

A week of pleasant, early summer weather with clear skies and modest freeze levels has kept the Ingraham Direct climbing well into the first week of June. The route as of 6/2/26 is still entirely snow covered above Camp Muir. Cathedral Gap is melting out quick and will soon present the first few patches of dry ground to navigate. As a reminder during this season of melt out, we recommend groups shorten their rope lengths when moving across dirt and rock to prevent knocking rocks down onto parties below and avoid stopping under cliffs where you are exposed to rock fall. 

The Ingraham Glacier between 11,400 and 11,800 remains the most dynamic section of the route, with widening crevasses and some weakening snow bridges. The number of crevasses is dense in this section of the route. 

Depending on the size of your team and rope spacing, it is entirely possible that one end of your rope team is encountering a new crevasse/ladder crossing while the last member is navigating the previous feature. There are 3 ladders and numerous pieces of fixed protection throughout this section. This section of the route is the most sensitive to warm weather and teams should be prepared for the possibility of any of these crevasse crossings to fall out either prior to their ascent or to find them uncrossable a few hours later while descending. 

A ladder crossing on the Ingraham Glacier on 6/2/26

The terrain mellows out for a few hundred feet before ascending steeply to Camp Comfort at 12,700 ft. Above Camp Comfort, the route encounters one more large crevasse and a steep, exposed snow slope near 13,000' before easing back to the summit. This crack at 13k is currently bridged well but may widen with warmer weather. There is ample fixed protection through this crevasse and steep slopes above. 

Sections of the route with steep slopes, ladders, and fixed protection tend to create traffic jams on busier days. Please be respectful of other teams on the route, communicate with each other, and plan in some extra time on your climb for traffic jams.   

Conditions tend to change quickly this time of year. Guides are still favoring and maintaining the Ingraham Direct as of 6/2/26, however a few days of warm weather may render the ID unfavorable at which time more effort will be directed at the Disappointment Cleaver. Stay tuned.

Be sure to check out our previous Ingraham Direct blog post from 5/26/26 for more information on driving access, climbing registration, and the Camp Muir approach, as well previous route conditions.