Aerial Route Photos from Friday, June 12, 2026

Mount Rainier from the Northwest

The Mowich Face and Sunset Ridge

Ptarmigan Ridge

The Carbon Glacier below Liberty Ridge

Liberty Ridge (left) and Ptarmigan Ridge (right)

Liberty Ridge

Lower Liberty Ridge and the Carbon Glacier

The Willis Wall and Liberty Ridge

Curtis Ridge

 

Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 6/13/2026

Climbers continue to explore the northeast side of Mount Rainier, frequently accessing the Inter Glacier, Camp Schurman, and the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers. This side of the mountain is an unmaintained wilderness experience that requires planning, preparation, and skills to have a successful trip.

The Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers

The approach to Glacier Basin Campground is snow-free with plenty of places to access running water. Consistent snow begins around 6200' on the Inter Glacier, with increasingly visible moats and few crevasses. It is recommended that climbers rope up once on the Emmons Glacier to access Camp Schurman, as many crevasses exist and are thinly covered by the snow from the past week.

Looking down the Inter Glacier

Camp Schurman and Steamboat Prow

Camp Schurman has fully operational facilities--two toilets, a blue bag barrel, and an emergency radio located on the front of the NPS hut. The helipad is currently covered in snow but can be seen in the photo below marked by a windsock. Please do your best to avoid camping on the helipad (the windsock has been removed). If permitted to camp at the Emmons Flats, roping up and traveling as a team to access that area is strongly recommended because it is necessary to cross several large, but currently bridged, crevasses.

Camp Schurman Camping

The Emmons-Wintrhop route continues to be a relatively direct climb, with many parties successfully traversing from the Emmons to the Winthrop Glacier above the Corridor and ascending and descending the upper bergschrund. 

With freezing levels reaching 16,500 feet over the past few days, it is important to have the skills to route-find in complex glaciated terrain if snow bridges over crevasses fall out on the ascent or descent. Place waypoints with mapping tools, consider placing pickets and belaying crossings, be well-rehearsed in crevasse rescue with the gear you are carrying, and understand that the summit is only the halfway point in your journey. The national park is experiencing peak busy season, which means that climbers need to be self-sufficient and able to self-rescue if necessary. 

Skiers should be prepared to transition between skiing and roped climbing safely and also perform a rescue on an unroped partner in the event of a crevasse fall. 

With warming temperatures and full sun, expect the route to change on a daily basis and be ready to adapt your plan based on conditions.

Getting Here:

Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.  

Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700. 

Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit. 

Disappointment Cleaver Route Update 6/13/2026

The current, maintained climbing route in the Muir Corridor is officially the Disappointment Cleaver route. Guides have been working diligently to improve the route and have successfully summited over the past few days. 

The Ingraham Glacier and Disappointment Cleaver

The Disappointment Cleaver

The Approach to Camp Muir

Dry trails and patchy snow exist on the hike up to Panorama Point and Pebble Creek. Please stay on trails or snow when possible to avoid trampling fragile alpine vegetation. The last place to fill up water is Pebble Creek (bring a water filter if you're planning to drink the water from there).  Above Pebble Creek, there is continuous snow up the Muir Snowfield.

Camp Muir

As a reminder, the Public Shelter remains closed for construction so be prepared to camp on snow with a four-season tent. Multiple feet of snow have fallen this month, accompanied by strong winds, and heavy-duty tents are strongly recommended for the rapidly changing mountain conditions. Camp Muir facilities are fully functional--including bathrooms, a blue bag barrel, and an emergency radio located in the bathroom nearest to the helipad.

The Disappointment Cleaver Route

Early season conditions exist on the Disappointment Cleaver Route, with lots of snow covering the approach to Cathedral Gap and on the Cleaver itself (see photos). Guides have placed handlines and pickets on steep sections of the Cleaver and above. Clipping yourself to the handlines is not recommended--instead, simply use it for balance. Clipping through pickets to use as running protection is allowed, however be sure to test that it is well-secured in the snow and leave all of the equipment where you found it (pickets, carabiners, etc.) because it is property of the guide services. 

While the route is maintained, be prepared to navigate this complex, glaciated terrain as if there were no wands or gear on the route. This includes being self-sufficient and able to self-rescue. Practice crevasse rescue with the team, rope, and gear that you are planning to climb with. Camp Muir is an excellent venue to sharpen technical skills before venturing onto the upper mountain.

Getting Here:

Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.  

Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700. 

Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit. 

Ingraham Direct Route Update 6/9/26

As we enter the second week of June, significant low pressure systems have impacted Mt. Rainier National Park. Snow levels have crept as low as Paradise and accompanied winds have been strong to extreme on the upper mountain. New snow and wind transport, paired with cold temperatures has kept the upper mountain in a winter time snowpack with snow totals expected to be 1 - 2’ above high camps since June 7th. Rangers noted a variety of snow surfaces while climbing the Ingraham Direct ranging from scoured icy firm to new wind loaded slab formations over a foot deep on 6/7/26.

New snow on the Cowlitz with strong winds 6/9/26

Climber crossing a ladder on the Ingraham

Around 12,400’, parties reported triggering a 12 inch deep by 60 foot wide pocket of wind slab, due to terrain there was not significant movement. With substantial new snow load comes the increased risk of avalanche hazard. Along with increased avalanche hazard, crevasses will become harder to read with a fresh coat of snow. No parties ventured far above the high camps on June 9th. The boot pack will be covered with new snow and difficult to follow.

Ladder crossing on the Ingraham

Skiing on the ID at this point in the season is strongly discouraged as the snow texture is very three dimensional, making secure movement impossible. Even with the new snow, the middle portion of the Ingraham Glacier has numerous snow bridge and ladder crossings that require removing skis to negotiate.

Newly covered crevasses adjacent to the boot pack

The Ingraham Direct route itself is still being climbed by both guide services as well as independent climbers. The route between 11,500’ and 12,000’ remains the most dynamic section with widening sections of crevasses and snow bridges. Adjuncts in the form of ladders and handlines exist through this area. This section is the most sensitive to warm weather and teams should be prepared for the possibility of any of these crevasse crossings to fall out. As always, remember to climb within the parties own ability, and to turn around when this threshold is being reached. 

Climber triggered windslab around 12,400' - 6/7/26

As a reminder, the calendar may say that meteorological summer has arrived, however on Mount Rainier the weather can change quickly and can even differ from the predicted forecast. Rangers noted a large number of summer tents being used at Camp Muir, many breaking in the wind and new snow. 

Getting Here:

Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.  

Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700. 

Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit. 

Emmons-Winthrop 5/30/26

The Emmons-Winthrop route is in good shape and has been providing climbers with a generally straightforward and direct line to the summit. As always, this is an unmaintained wilderness glacier route and conditions can change quickly with warm weather, wind, clouds, and daily melt-freeze cycles among other factors. Teams should continue to make their own terrain assessments, especially around crevasse crossings and snow bridges.

A route to the Summit on 5/30

The trail to Glacier Basin is nearly completely clear of snow. The Inter Glacier still has decent coverage with fairly planar surface conditions on our spring snowpack. Moats are beginning to become more pronounced, though no open crevasses have been observed on the Inter Glacier at this time. 

After crossing the Inter Fork near Glacier Basin

Looking up at the Inter Glacier

At Camp Schurman, climbing rangers and volunteers have been busy digging out the ranger station and bathrooms. Both bathrooms are now open and operational. However, there is not currently a Blue Bag barrel at Camp Schurman. Parties should plan to pack out all blue bags in addition to their trash, and waste. Pack it in - Pack it out!

Approx Route on 5/30

Above Camp Schurman, the route is generally direct. Surface conditions have been firm with a diurnal and variable melt freeze crusts below 12,000ft and wind-packed cold snow higher on the route. Warm weather over the past several weeks has affected the snow below 12k.

Between 11,900 feet and 13,100 feet, there are five to six notable crevasses beginning to open. Some parties have chosen to place pickets to protect their rope team through these crossings. Teams should take time to evaluate each crossing, consider the consequences of a snow bridge failure, and use appropriate rope travel and protection techniques for the conditions they encounter.

~11,900' (Taken 5/30)

~12,150' (Taken 5/30)

~12,400' (Taken 5/30)

~13,100' (Taken 5/30)

Above 13,000 feet, the route remains direct toward the summit. The bergschrund is currently well bridged, allowing for a more direct line than is often possible later in the season.

There have also been many successful ski descents of the Emmons and Winthrop Shoulder routes recently. That said, firm conditions and variable melt-freeze surfaces have created challenging conditions for skiers. There have already been incidents this season of skiers falling large distances after losing control. Skiing Rainier is a serious undertaking that requires more than expert skiing ability. A high degree of skill and experience in traditional mountaineering, glacier navigation, and crevasse rescue is essential. Parties are advised to not blindly follow old ski tracks, as conditions may have changed or other parties may not have taken a safe route. Falls in this terrain can be highly consequential or fatal.

Skiers should be prepared to take skis off and rope up when conditions or terrain require it. Teams should carry the equipment and have the practiced skills needed to deal with an un-roped crevasse fall, protect exposed crossings, and transition safely between skiing and climbing.

Warm weather and strong sun will continue to change the route. Climbers and skiers should expect snow bridges, moats, and surface conditions to evolve quickly through the day and from one day to the next. Start early, manage overhead and crevasse hazards carefully, and be prepared to adjust your plan if conditions have changed.

Ingraham Direct Route Update 6/2/26

    

Looking up from Ingraham Flats. The Ingraham Direct is center frame, the Disappointment Cleaver is the climber's right.  

A week of pleasant, early summer weather with clear skies and modest freeze levels has kept the Ingraham Direct climbing well into the first week of June. The route as of 6/2/26 is still entirely snow covered above Camp Muir. Cathedral Gap is melting out quick and will soon present the first few patches of dry ground to navigate. As a reminder during this season of melt out, we recommend groups shorten their rope lengths when moving across dirt and rock to prevent knocking rocks down onto parties below and avoid stopping under cliffs where you are exposed to rock fall. 

The Ingraham Glacier between 11,400 and 11,800 remains the most dynamic section of the route, with widening crevasses and some weakening snow bridges. The number of crevasses is dense in this section of the route. 

Depending on the size of your team and rope spacing, it is entirely possible that one end of your rope team is encountering a new crevasse/ladder crossing while the last member is navigating the previous feature. There are 3 ladders and numerous pieces of fixed protection throughout this section. This section of the route is the most sensitive to warm weather and teams should be prepared for the possibility of any of these crevasse crossings to fall out either prior to their ascent or to find them uncrossable a few hours later while descending. 

A ladder crossing on the Ingraham Glacier on 6/2/26

The terrain mellows out for a few hundred feet before ascending steeply to Camp Comfort at 12,700 ft. Above Camp Comfort, the route encounters one more large crevasse and a steep, exposed snow slope near 13,000' before easing back to the summit. This crack at 13k is currently bridged well but may widen with warmer weather. There is ample fixed protection through this crevasse and steep slopes above. 

Sections of the route with steep slopes, ladders, and fixed protection tend to create traffic jams on busier days. Please be respectful of other teams on the route, communicate with each other, and plan in some extra time on your climb for traffic jams.   

Conditions tend to change quickly this time of year. Guides are still favoring and maintaining the Ingraham Direct as of 6/2/26, however a few days of warm weather may render the ID unfavorable at which time more effort will be directed at the Disappointment Cleaver. Stay tuned.

Be sure to check out our previous Ingraham Direct blog post from 5/26/26 for more information on driving access, climbing registration, and the Camp Muir approach, as well previous route conditions. 

Ingraham Direct Route Update 5/26/26

Sunrise behind Little Tahoma from Cathedral Gap on 5/23/26

Climbing Season is fully underway at Mt. Rainier! Parties have been successful on multiple climbing routes, and skiers have been venturing around the upper mountain as well. When the weather has been nice, the Mountain has been busy. The information below will set you and your team up for success from the Park Entrance all the way to the Summit.

Getting Here:

Both the White River Entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as is the White River entrance and Steven Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.

Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River Wilderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730-1700.

Visit the Park's Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit.

Route: 

Paradise to Pebble Creek (7,200 ft) - you'll find intermittent snow coverage between Paradise and Pebble Creek. While you'll predominately travel on snow over this section, there are significant portions of trail melting out. Do your best to pay attention to trail markings and avoid walking on fragile plant life.

Muir Snowfield - Above Pebble Creek the snowfield is in typical springtime condition, with no running water. Warmer days with full sun have zapped some climbing parties on their ascent to Camp Muir. Be mindful of sun exposure and be diligent with hydration.

Camp Muir - Ample space exists for pitching tents on the snow. You'll find 2 open bathrooms east of the helipad, and 2 open bathrooms on the far west side of camp. A blue bag barrel exists near each set of open bathrooms. Pack out all trash and keep your tent site clean for the enjoyment of future parties.

Ingraham Flats - The route across the Cowlitz makes a gentle ascent to Cathedral Gap, which is snow covered. Rangers found few open crevasses between Camp Muir and Ingraham Flats.

The Ingraham Direct route on 5/23/26

Ingraham Direct - From the Flats, the route ascends the Ingraham Glacier towards a crevassed section with 3 ladder crossings beginning at 11,600. Each ladder crossing was short, just a few steps, and had hand lines and fixed protection to facilitate running belays. Understand that these ladder crossings can be choke points on the route that make passing parties difficult. Above the last ladder at 11,800, the route continues up the Ingraham glacier to Camp Comfort at the top of Gibraltar Rock. A steep headwall section below Camp Comfort also has fixed pickets for running belays. These can be useful with the proper rope interval spacing between climbers. Please allow descending climbers to pass and be aware of other parties on the route. 

One of the three ladder crossings around 11,700 ft on 5/23/26

Handlines and fixed pickets provide extra security at ladder crossings (5/23/26)

Camp Comfort to the Summit - Cross a snow bridge over a crevasse directly above Camp Comfort, which leads to another steep pitch with fixed pickets. Above here, the route follows gentle switchbacks to the Crater Rim at Guide Rock. There were few open crevasses above 13,000 feet, but evidence of some sagging snow bridges could be seen.

Descending towards Camp Comfort, looking down the Ingraham Glacier on 5/23/26

Descent - Pay close attention while descending the upper mountain. The boot pack is less obvious while descending to Camp Comfort. Also, consider using running belays in the steeper sections on the way down. Tired legs are more likely to slip in steep and firm sections of the route.

Planning your Climb: Check out the Mt. Rainier Recreational Forecast for a good starting point. The weather looks warmer mid-week followed by a cooling trend by the weekend. Don't forget to bring snow picket anchors for your climb! Many sections of the route are too firm to facilitate digging a t-slot anchor using either skis or an ice axe. Snow shovels are just as important as your ice axe and crampons; you'll need one at Camp Muir.

Happy Climbing!

Aerial Route Photos from Thursday, May 21st

Upper Ingraham Glacier

Fuhrer Finger

Upper Kautz Glacier

Success Couloir 

Tahoma Glacier

Mowich Face

Upper Ptarmigan Ridge

Upper Liberty Ridge 

Memorial Day Weekend Conditions

 

View of the Emmons & Winthrop Glaciers from the top of Steamboat Prow

The roads on the east side of the park are scheduled to open this Friday for the summer - Chinook Pass, Cayuse Pass and the road up to the White River Campground will all be open to the public.  This will allow easier access for climbers and skiers to the Inter Glacier and the east side routes like the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Route and Liberty Ridge.  

White River Ranger Station and the Paradise Wilderness Information Center will open daily for the season starting this Friday as well.  Climbers and skiers must register in-person at a ranger station for any climb or ski on a glacier and/or above 10,000 feet.  Please see the "Permits and Fees" tab for more info.

There's a couple of things to remind potential climbers and skiers of as the holiday weekend approaches:

• Winter-like weather this last week drifted in a significant amount of new snow on leeward slopes.  Recently, both climbers & skiers have been turning around near 12k due to shooting cracks and dangerous looking wind slabs.  While avalanche conditions can change day to day (and even hour to hour) make sure your team can assess these hazards for themselves (there's no public avalanche forecast this time of year on Mount Rainier).  Do not venture up into avalanche terrain if you're not confident that it's safe to do so - especially with terrain traps like crevasses below you!

• There's limited resources available at Camp Schurman due to record level snow deposition on the ridge near the ranger hut.  The bathrooms, blue bag barrels, rescue litters and propane tanks are still buried under meters of snow.  All climbers and skiers will need to carry all their human waste in blue bags all the way out to the trailhead where there's a barrel near the bathroom in the White River Camp Ground Climbers Parking Area that's labeled for Blue Bags.  Consider bringing extra blue bags since there's no toilet available at Camp Schurman.  

• The weather forecast looks to be deteriorating into the weekend.  Both Friday & Saturday look decent and Sunday & Monday look to be cloudy with high chance of precipitation.  Forecasts can be wrong, but be cautious with deteriorating conditions like this - if something goes wrong (which can happen to anyone) and a rescue is required it can be prolonged or not even possible in a storm.

While there's so much joy and wonder that can be found up high on the slopes of Mount Rainier - it can also be unforgiving.  Please make sure to build in an extra margin for safety in any activity you plan on the mountain!  While the excitement of this "opening weekend" of the climbing/skiing season can be contagious - we hope that all visitors stay safe and continue to visit the mountain many more times in the future!  

Conditions and Permit Update: Camp Schurman, Emmons-Winthrop, and Liberty Ridge

Looking directly up at the Emmons Glacier.

Camp Schurman

SR 410/Chinook Pass is still closed for the season, limiting access to the east side of the national park. The target opening date is May 22nd. Biking and walking is allowed on the park road, but be vigilant for park vehicles traveling on the roadway.

Permits are self-registration only until May 22nd. After May 22nd, the White River Wilderness Information Center will be open 7:30am to 5:00pm. Self-registration is located in front of the White River Wilderness Information Center and walk-up registration is located inside.

Camp Schurman facilities, including bathrooms, are currently buried in snow and inaccessible. Plan to be self-sufficient on a trip up to and above Camp Schurman (including bringing blue bags and packing them out).

Buried Camp Schurman.

The view of the Emmons-Winthrop zone from Little Tahoma.

Liberty Ridge, early May 2026.

Conditions and Permit Update: Muir Snowfield, Camp Muir, Ingraham Direct

We’ve been busy here at Mt. Rainier, with guided and unguided parties climbing and skiing numerous routes on the Mountain. As we get rolling into the season, we wanted to remind everyone of the what, where, and how to have a successful trip. 

Permits

Climbing permits are required for all people traveling on glaciers and/or above normal climbing high camps (~10,000 feet). Solo climbers are required to apply for a separate permit. Camping also requires a wilderness permit.

Currently, there are several ways to obtain the various permits needed, depending on when you plan to climb. 

The climbing permit fee can be paid for online here.

Self-Registration will occur from May 18 to May 21. There is a self-registration booth located inside the hallway of the Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC).

Walk-up permits are available on May 15, 16, and 17. Beginning on Friday, May 22nd, the PWIC will be open every day. Their hours are 7:30am to 5:00pm. Wilderness permit reservations (for camping) can also be made on recreation.gov.

Muir Snowfield and Camp Muir

Alongside rapidly changing conditions on the upper mountain, the Muir Snowfield is in a transitional state between winter and summer. Climbers, hikers, and skiers need to be prepared to handle various types of weather and travel conditions. 

There is patchy snow the entire way up the Snowfield. Pebble Creek is the highest place to access drinking water on the way to Camp Muir, however a water purification method is strongly recommended and the creek may be frozen during cold temperatures. Please stay on trails or snow whenever possible to protect fragile alpine vegetation. 

The route to Camp Muir is not clearly marked and requires mountain-travel skills including strong white-out navigation abilities, using GPS. The Snowfield is bordered by consequential, steep, glaciated terrain and can be difficult to navigate in poor weather and visibility.

Inclement weather will hit the area on Thursday (May 14) through the weekend. Expect high winds, low temperatures, poor visibility, and heavy precipitation. Snow levels are forecasted down to 3500 feet on Saturday. Avalanche hazard will increase; please monitor and submit all avalanche activity to the Northwest Avalanche Center. 

As a reminder, the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed for construction. Prepare to camp in winter-like conditions. There is an emergency radio located in the first restroom nearest the helipad and can be used to initiate a rescue response. Plan to be self-sufficient; rescues in winter-like conditions can take several days to respond to.

Looking up at the Muir Snowfield from Pebble Creek on 5/8/2026.

Upper Mountain 

See previous blog post for upper mountain route conditions. These conditions are changing with the storm and features like wands and crevasses will likely be buried under new snow and less obvious. Guide services are reporting a single ladder on the current route up the Ingraham Direct between 11600 feet and 11800 feet. Climbing conditions over the next few days (and potentially weeks) will require advanced mountaineering skills to mitigate hazards such as avalanches, extreme weather, and navigation in complex glaciated terrain.

 

The Ingraham Glacier on 5/8/2026. Gibraltar Rock can be seen on the left side of the photo and the Disappointment Cleaver on the right.