Emmons - Winthrop 7/7/26

Fourth of July brought sunny skies and successful summits to many climbing parties on the Emmons. With the higher freezing levels we have had, some timing considerations for your climb are worth noting. Starting on the early side ensures that your party has ample time to attempt a summit and be coming down back to camp before the heat of the day. As things continue to warm, serac fall, crevasse bridges, and travel conditions can quickly turn into difficult hazards to mitigate. 

The route is in good condition above Camp Schurman. There is a prominent bootpack to follow. 

Taking a GPS track of your climb up is recommended for route finding on the way down; boot packs can melt out and not be obvious from above. Additionally, with spring and summer conditions, boot packs from old routes may still be present. Avoid following tracks just because they are there; instead, visually confirm that snow bridges are safe to travel over and place protection as necessary. Remember that just because you crossed a snow bridge on the way up does not mean it will be there on the way down. Be prepared to use your own glacier navigation skills on both the ascent and descent. 

From Schurman, the route continues up the small hill to Emmons flats. Here the route angles up and climber’s left to the Corridor. Be aware that large crevasses open between Emmon’s Flats and the corridor each summer.

Once on the Corridor, continue directly up. At the top of the Corridor, around ~11.7k, the glacier becomes more jumbled. Take care to carefully evaluate snowbridges and protect them as necessary. This region is quite hollow and punchy, you will see holes where climbers have punched a leg in.

There is a notable crevasse crossing at 12.2k as the route starts to traverse climbers right. Here there is a very thin snowbridge that will likely collapse soon. Consider placing protection and/or finding another route around. Again, on the way up, consider what your team will do if the snowbridge collapses while you are above it.

7/6/26 Photo of the crevasse crossing at 12.2k. The track can be seen making a zig zag to go over the snow bridge in the center of the photo. 

Above this, the route is in good condition, with some crevasse crossing. The route continues to traverse climbers right to the Winthrop shoulder then takes a direct route up to the summit.

Descend the same route you used to ascend. Keep in mind that warming during the day can change the way things look and what is passable on the way down. Plan for this as you cross terrain on your ascent. Stay alert and protect steeper sections and snow bridges. Don’t be afraid to step out of the boot pack for better footing. 

7/6/26 Track of the approximate route 

Disappointment Cleaver Route Update 7/3/2026

The Disappointment Cleaver has been holding together, and parties have been making it to the summit in fairly reasonable times.  Two days ago, the guide services did some route work and put in a new route up the shoulder of the Emmons Glacier.  This new variant starts just above the top of the Disappointment Cleaver and instead of going climber's left towards the top of Gibraltar Rock, it spurs off to climber's right and then ascends to the crater rim.  

Like most glaciated climbs - the route can change day to day and even hour to hour. Just because a snow bridge or a ladder was intact and you crossed it on the way up to the summit does not mean that it'll be there when you descend. Consider alternatives as you ascend - especially at critical points like a crevasse bridge.  Often, pioneering a new descent path can take more advanced skills and/or abilities than those required to ascend. 

Expect to do some route finding of your own as the temps warm into the hottest months of the summer.  Snow melts away from the rocky ridges and the glaciers continue to flow down the mountain opening up new crevasses and collapsing others.  Again, there's no one "route" when climbing or skiing on glaciers - consider them blank canvases for you and your climbing team to "paint" your track on.  Stay within your ability levels and enjoy your opportunity for creativity!  

Wishing everyone a safe and wonderful holiday weekend!  See you in the mountains! 

Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 6/24/26

Getting to camp:

The trail to Glacier Basin is free of snow and great for running shoes. Make noise in the region of the turn off to the Emmons Moraine trail as a bear with a cub has been spotted in the area. If you happen to see the bear, make noise and make yourself appear bigger.

From Glacier Basin the route continues up the moraine trail to the tea gardens. There are many small trails through this area; whichever you choose, be mindful to stay on an existing path and not trample the meadows. Keep your eye out in this area, there have been many wildlife sightings recently.

Once the moraine trail meets the tea gardens, you’ll begin to move through patchy snow. Be careful through here and into the lower part of the inter glacier; as the snow melts the creeks hollow the snow out from below creating dangerous creek holes that you can punch into. You may hear the rumbling of water beneath you in the snow, see small holes that open down to a creek, or see creeks running towards you from the ridge line above. These are all signs that you are in a very thin region. Stay spread out to avoid overloading a single area and avoid the creeks if possible.

6/23/26 Examples of thin snow bridges over creeks

From there, you’ll follow the trail directly up the Inter Glacier. Be mindful of rockfall hazard and pay attention to where it is common by looking for rocks on the snow surface. Avoid stopping in these zones.

Keep an eye out for where the boot pack veers left to gain the ridge at Camp Curtis, you will want to follow this route to get to the Emmons Glacier rather than following skier’s tracks to the top of Steamboat Prow. Here (46.87290, -121.72624) are the coordinates of Camp Curtis, which will mark the start of your descent onto the Emmons.

Currently the descent onto the Emmons is all snow. Notice the rocks on the snow surface at the transition onto the Emmons Glacier. Many parties are transitioning to glacier travel mode in this rock fall zone which is not recommended. Look for a rock fall free zone to transition in. From here, the route to Camp Schurman is quite direct, though you will walk near opening crevasses: give these a wide berth as the weather warms.

6/20/26 - Textured snow on the corridor looking down towards Emmon's Flats (center left tents), Camp Schurman (far left tents), and the descent from Camp Curtis (center snow role on ridge) to the Emmons Glacier.

On your hike, running water is available along the trail to glacier basin, from the creeks along the moraine trail, from the creeks in the tea gardens area, and can be found on most of the rock outcrops on the Inter Glacier. There is no running water at Camp Curtis or at Camp Schurman. As always, treating your water is recommended before drinking it.


Camp Schurman:

Camp Schurman currently has many tent platforms dug out and space for more. Please respect the posted “Please Don’t Camp Here” sign on the saddle and camp at least 75 feet from the sign, this is the NPS temporary helipad until the traditional one melts out from the snow. Having the helipad clear of tents facilitates emergency operations if necessary. Both bathrooms are open at Schurman along with a blue bag barrel just outside the restroom.


Emmons flats:

There are existing tent platforms at camp and room for more. Keep in mind that this camp is on a glacier and you should take appropriate measures to ensure you are in a crevasse free zone before un-roping.


Upper mountain:

Taking a GPS track of your climb up is recommended for route finding on the way down; boot packs can melt out and not be obvious from above. Additionally, with spring and summer conditions, boot packs from old routes may still be present. Avoid following tracks just because they are there; instead, visually confirm that snow bridges are safe to travel over and place protection as necessary.

From Schurman, the route continues up the small hill to Emmons flats. Here the route angles up and climber’s left to the Corridor. Be aware that though this area looks smooth, large crevasses open between Emmon’s Flats and the corridor each summer.

Once on the Corridor, continue directly up. Make note of where the route veers climber’s right around 11.8k to avoid a crevasse. On the way down, many parties have been missing this switch back and have needed to backtrack in order to regain the route. See (the photo) for more information.

6/18/26 Approximate route location during week of 6/21/26. The orange circle marks the 11.8k location of confusion for descending parties.

At the top of the Corridor, around 12k, the route moves over a section of exposed ice. Consider placing protection in this area, to avoid a slip turning into a fall. Also in this area, you will move over a variety of snow bridges. Take care to inspect them before crossing and place protection for your party should they fail.

6/20/26 Looking down the crevasse crossings at ~12k at the top of the Corridor

There is a notable crevasse crossing at 12,200 ft as the route starts to traverse climbers right. Here, you will walk along the downhill edge of the crevasse. Though the boot pack may continue straight, look to your left immediately after encountering the crevasse for a better snow bridge to cross. Understand that if a snow bridge looks like a true “bridge” - a thin piece of snow spanning air - it is weak and very dangerous to cross. Instead look for a section of snow that completely fills in the crevasse and then protect it as necessary.

6/20/26 An example of a thin, dangerous snow bridge. The tracks seen are from an old route that should no longer be followed.

From here the route continues to traverse climbers right to the Winthrop shoulder. You will cross another crevasse around 12.6k, while gaining the shoulder, that is worth giving a thorough check and potentially protecting.

Continuing up the Winthrop Shoulder, the route is quite direct. You will encounter yet another notable crevasse at 13,000 ft. Be very skeptical of what route you choose to cross this crevasse, the old boot pack (which may not look old) leads over a very thin snow bridge. Instead, explore climbers left for a sturdier place to cross. Again, place protection to avoid a serious fall.

6/20/26 Parties descending near the 13k crevasse of note.

Above this, the route continues directly towards the summit.


Descent:

Descend the same route you used to ascend. Keep in mind that warming during the day can change the way things look and what is passable on the way down. Plan for this as you cross terrain on your ascent. Stay alert and protect steeper sections and snow bridges. Don’t be afraid to step out of the boot pack for better footing.

6/20/26 An approximate route location

Getting Here:

Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park.


Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River Wilderness Information Center.

Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700.

Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit.

Aerial Route Photos from Friday, June 12, 2026

Mount Rainier from the Northwest

The Mowich Face and Sunset Ridge

Ptarmigan Ridge

The Carbon Glacier below Liberty Ridge

Liberty Ridge (left) and Ptarmigan Ridge (right)

Liberty Ridge

Lower Liberty Ridge and the Carbon Glacier

The Willis Wall and Liberty Ridge

Curtis Ridge

 

Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 6/13/2026

Climbers continue to explore the northeast side of Mount Rainier, frequently accessing the Inter Glacier, Camp Schurman, and the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers. This side of the mountain is an unmaintained wilderness experience that requires planning, preparation, and skills to have a successful trip.

The Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers

The approach to Glacier Basin Campground is snow-free with plenty of places to access running water. Consistent snow begins around 6200' on the Inter Glacier, with increasingly visible moats and few crevasses. It is recommended that climbers rope up once on the Emmons Glacier to access Camp Schurman, as many crevasses exist and are thinly covered by the snow from the past week.

Looking down the Inter Glacier

Camp Schurman and Steamboat Prow

Camp Schurman has fully operational facilities--two toilets, a blue bag barrel, and an emergency radio located on the front of the NPS hut. The helipad is currently covered in snow but can be seen in the photo below marked by a windsock. Please do your best to avoid camping on the helipad (the windsock has been removed). If permitted to camp at the Emmons Flats, roping up and traveling as a team to access that area is strongly recommended because it is necessary to cross several large, but currently bridged, crevasses.

Camp Schurman Camping

The Emmons-Wintrhop route continues to be a relatively direct climb, with many parties successfully traversing from the Emmons to the Winthrop Glacier above the Corridor and ascending and descending the upper bergschrund. 

With freezing levels reaching 16,500 feet over the past few days, it is important to have the skills to route-find in complex glaciated terrain if snow bridges over crevasses fall out on the ascent or descent. Place waypoints with mapping tools, consider placing pickets and belaying crossings, be well-rehearsed in crevasse rescue with the gear you are carrying, and understand that the summit is only the halfway point in your journey. The national park is experiencing peak busy season, which means that climbers need to be self-sufficient and able to self-rescue if necessary. 

Skiers should be prepared to transition between skiing and roped climbing safely and also perform a rescue on an unroped partner in the event of a crevasse fall. 

With warming temperatures and full sun, expect the route to change on a daily basis and be ready to adapt your plan based on conditions.

Getting Here:

Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.  

Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700. 

Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit. 

Disappointment Cleaver Route Update 6/13/2026

The current, maintained climbing route in the Muir Corridor is officially the Disappointment Cleaver route. Guides have been working diligently to improve the route and have successfully summited over the past few days. 

The Ingraham Glacier and Disappointment Cleaver

The Disappointment Cleaver

The Approach to Camp Muir

Dry trails and patchy snow exist on the hike up to Panorama Point and Pebble Creek. Please stay on trails or snow when possible to avoid trampling fragile alpine vegetation. The last place to fill up water is Pebble Creek (bring a water filter if you're planning to drink the water from there).  Above Pebble Creek, there is continuous snow up the Muir Snowfield.

Camp Muir

As a reminder, the Public Shelter remains closed for construction so be prepared to camp on snow with a four-season tent. Multiple feet of snow have fallen this month, accompanied by strong winds, and heavy-duty tents are strongly recommended for the rapidly changing mountain conditions. Camp Muir facilities are fully functional--including bathrooms, a blue bag barrel, and an emergency radio located in the bathroom nearest to the helipad.

The Disappointment Cleaver Route

Early season conditions exist on the Disappointment Cleaver Route, with lots of snow covering the approach to Cathedral Gap and on the Cleaver itself (see photos). Guides have placed handlines and pickets on steep sections of the Cleaver and above. Clipping yourself to the handlines is not recommended--instead, simply use it for balance. Clipping through pickets to use as running protection is allowed, however be sure to test that it is well-secured in the snow and leave all of the equipment where you found it (pickets, carabiners, etc.) because it is property of the guide services. 

While the route is maintained, be prepared to navigate this complex, glaciated terrain as if there were no wands or gear on the route. This includes being self-sufficient and able to self-rescue. Practice crevasse rescue with the team, rope, and gear that you are planning to climb with. Camp Muir is an excellent venue to sharpen technical skills before venturing onto the upper mountain.

Getting Here:

Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.  

Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700. 

Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit. 

Ingraham Direct Route Update 6/9/26

As we enter the second week of June, significant low pressure systems have impacted Mt. Rainier National Park. Snow levels have crept as low as Paradise and accompanied winds have been strong to extreme on the upper mountain. New snow and wind transport, paired with cold temperatures has kept the upper mountain in a winter time snowpack with snow totals expected to be 1 - 2’ above high camps since June 7th. Rangers noted a variety of snow surfaces while climbing the Ingraham Direct ranging from scoured icy firm to new wind loaded slab formations over a foot deep on 6/7/26.

New snow on the Cowlitz with strong winds 6/9/26

Climber crossing a ladder on the Ingraham

Around 12,400’, parties reported triggering a 12 inch deep by 60 foot wide pocket of wind slab, due to terrain there was not significant movement. With substantial new snow load comes the increased risk of avalanche hazard. Along with increased avalanche hazard, crevasses will become harder to read with a fresh coat of snow. No parties ventured far above the high camps on June 9th. The boot pack will be covered with new snow and difficult to follow.

Ladder crossing on the Ingraham

Skiing on the ID at this point in the season is strongly discouraged as the snow texture is very three dimensional, making secure movement impossible. Even with the new snow, the middle portion of the Ingraham Glacier has numerous snow bridge and ladder crossings that require removing skis to negotiate.

Newly covered crevasses adjacent to the boot pack

The Ingraham Direct route itself is still being climbed by both guide services as well as independent climbers. The route between 11,500’ and 12,000’ remains the most dynamic section with widening sections of crevasses and snow bridges. Adjuncts in the form of ladders and handlines exist through this area. This section is the most sensitive to warm weather and teams should be prepared for the possibility of any of these crevasse crossings to fall out. As always, remember to climb within the parties own ability, and to turn around when this threshold is being reached. 

Climber triggered windslab around 12,400' - 6/7/26

As a reminder, the calendar may say that meteorological summer has arrived, however on Mount Rainier the weather can change quickly and can even differ from the predicted forecast. Rangers noted a large number of summer tents being used at Camp Muir, many breaking in the wind and new snow. 

Getting Here:

Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.  

Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700. 

Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit. 

Emmons-Winthrop 5/30/26

The Emmons-Winthrop route is in good shape and has been providing climbers with a generally straightforward and direct line to the summit. As always, this is an unmaintained wilderness glacier route and conditions can change quickly with warm weather, wind, clouds, and daily melt-freeze cycles among other factors. Teams should continue to make their own terrain assessments, especially around crevasse crossings and snow bridges.

A route to the Summit on 5/30

The trail to Glacier Basin is nearly completely clear of snow. The Inter Glacier still has decent coverage with fairly planar surface conditions on our spring snowpack. Moats are beginning to become more pronounced, though no open crevasses have been observed on the Inter Glacier at this time. 

After crossing the Inter Fork near Glacier Basin

Looking up at the Inter Glacier

At Camp Schurman, climbing rangers and volunteers have been busy digging out the ranger station and bathrooms. Both bathrooms are now open and operational. However, there is not currently a Blue Bag barrel at Camp Schurman. Parties should plan to pack out all blue bags in addition to their trash, and waste. Pack it in - Pack it out!

Approx Route on 5/30

Above Camp Schurman, the route is generally direct. Surface conditions have been firm with a diurnal and variable melt freeze crusts below 12,000ft and wind-packed cold snow higher on the route. Warm weather over the past several weeks has affected the snow below 12k.

Between 11,900 feet and 13,100 feet, there are five to six notable crevasses beginning to open. Some parties have chosen to place pickets to protect their rope team through these crossings. Teams should take time to evaluate each crossing, consider the consequences of a snow bridge failure, and use appropriate rope travel and protection techniques for the conditions they encounter.

~11,900' (Taken 5/30)

~12,150' (Taken 5/30)

~12,400' (Taken 5/30)

~13,100' (Taken 5/30)

Above 13,000 feet, the route remains direct toward the summit. The bergschrund is currently well bridged, allowing for a more direct line than is often possible later in the season.

There have also been many successful ski descents of the Emmons and Winthrop Shoulder routes recently. That said, firm conditions and variable melt-freeze surfaces have created challenging conditions for skiers. There have already been incidents this season of skiers falling large distances after losing control. Skiing Rainier is a serious undertaking that requires more than expert skiing ability. A high degree of skill and experience in traditional mountaineering, glacier navigation, and crevasse rescue is essential. Parties are advised to not blindly follow old ski tracks, as conditions may have changed or other parties may not have taken a safe route. Falls in this terrain can be highly consequential or fatal.

Skiers should be prepared to take skis off and rope up when conditions or terrain require it. Teams should carry the equipment and have the practiced skills needed to deal with an un-roped crevasse fall, protect exposed crossings, and transition safely between skiing and climbing.

Warm weather and strong sun will continue to change the route. Climbers and skiers should expect snow bridges, moats, and surface conditions to evolve quickly through the day and from one day to the next. Start early, manage overhead and crevasse hazards carefully, and be prepared to adjust your plan if conditions have changed.

Ingraham Direct Route Update 6/2/26

    

Looking up from Ingraham Flats. The Ingraham Direct is center frame, the Disappointment Cleaver is the climber's right.  

A week of pleasant, early summer weather with clear skies and modest freeze levels has kept the Ingraham Direct climbing well into the first week of June. The route as of 6/2/26 is still entirely snow covered above Camp Muir. Cathedral Gap is melting out quick and will soon present the first few patches of dry ground to navigate. As a reminder during this season of melt out, we recommend groups shorten their rope lengths when moving across dirt and rock to prevent knocking rocks down onto parties below and avoid stopping under cliffs where you are exposed to rock fall. 

The Ingraham Glacier between 11,400 and 11,800 remains the most dynamic section of the route, with widening crevasses and some weakening snow bridges. The number of crevasses is dense in this section of the route. 

Depending on the size of your team and rope spacing, it is entirely possible that one end of your rope team is encountering a new crevasse/ladder crossing while the last member is navigating the previous feature. There are 3 ladders and numerous pieces of fixed protection throughout this section. This section of the route is the most sensitive to warm weather and teams should be prepared for the possibility of any of these crevasse crossings to fall out either prior to their ascent or to find them uncrossable a few hours later while descending. 

A ladder crossing on the Ingraham Glacier on 6/2/26

The terrain mellows out for a few hundred feet before ascending steeply to Camp Comfort at 12,700 ft. Above Camp Comfort, the route encounters one more large crevasse and a steep, exposed snow slope near 13,000' before easing back to the summit. This crack at 13k is currently bridged well but may widen with warmer weather. There is ample fixed protection through this crevasse and steep slopes above. 

Sections of the route with steep slopes, ladders, and fixed protection tend to create traffic jams on busier days. Please be respectful of other teams on the route, communicate with each other, and plan in some extra time on your climb for traffic jams.   

Conditions tend to change quickly this time of year. Guides are still favoring and maintaining the Ingraham Direct as of 6/2/26, however a few days of warm weather may render the ID unfavorable at which time more effort will be directed at the Disappointment Cleaver. Stay tuned.

Be sure to check out our previous Ingraham Direct blog post from 5/26/26 for more information on driving access, climbing registration, and the Camp Muir approach, as well previous route conditions. 

Ingraham Direct Route Update 5/26/26

Sunrise behind Little Tahoma from Cathedral Gap on 5/23/26

Climbing Season is fully underway at Mt. Rainier! Parties have been successful on multiple climbing routes, and skiers have been venturing around the upper mountain as well. When the weather has been nice, the Mountain has been busy. The information below will set you and your team up for success from the Park Entrance all the way to the Summit.

Getting Here:

Both the White River Entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as is the White River entrance and Steven Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.

Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River Wilderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730-1700.

Visit the Park's Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit.

Route: 

Paradise to Pebble Creek (7,200 ft) - you'll find intermittent snow coverage between Paradise and Pebble Creek. While you'll predominately travel on snow over this section, there are significant portions of trail melting out. Do your best to pay attention to trail markings and avoid walking on fragile plant life.

Muir Snowfield - Above Pebble Creek the snowfield is in typical springtime condition, with no running water. Warmer days with full sun have zapped some climbing parties on their ascent to Camp Muir. Be mindful of sun exposure and be diligent with hydration.

Camp Muir - Ample space exists for pitching tents on the snow. You'll find 2 open bathrooms east of the helipad, and 2 open bathrooms on the far west side of camp. A blue bag barrel exists near each set of open bathrooms. Pack out all trash and keep your tent site clean for the enjoyment of future parties.

Ingraham Flats - The route across the Cowlitz makes a gentle ascent to Cathedral Gap, which is snow covered. Rangers found few open crevasses between Camp Muir and Ingraham Flats.

The Ingraham Direct route on 5/23/26

Ingraham Direct - From the Flats, the route ascends the Ingraham Glacier towards a crevassed section with 3 ladder crossings beginning at 11,600. Each ladder crossing was short, just a few steps, and had hand lines and fixed protection to facilitate running belays. Understand that these ladder crossings can be choke points on the route that make passing parties difficult. Above the last ladder at 11,800, the route continues up the Ingraham glacier to Camp Comfort at the top of Gibraltar Rock. A steep headwall section below Camp Comfort also has fixed pickets for running belays. These can be useful with the proper rope interval spacing between climbers. Please allow descending climbers to pass and be aware of other parties on the route. 

One of the three ladder crossings around 11,700 ft on 5/23/26

Handlines and fixed pickets provide extra security at ladder crossings (5/23/26)

Camp Comfort to the Summit - Cross a snow bridge over a crevasse directly above Camp Comfort, which leads to another steep pitch with fixed pickets. Above here, the route follows gentle switchbacks to the Crater Rim at Guide Rock. There were few open crevasses above 13,000 feet, but evidence of some sagging snow bridges could be seen.

Descending towards Camp Comfort, looking down the Ingraham Glacier on 5/23/26

Descent - Pay close attention while descending the upper mountain. The boot pack is less obvious while descending to Camp Comfort. Also, consider using running belays in the steeper sections on the way down. Tired legs are more likely to slip in steep and firm sections of the route.

Planning your Climb: Check out the Mt. Rainier Recreational Forecast for a good starting point. The weather looks warmer mid-week followed by a cooling trend by the weekend. Don't forget to bring snow picket anchors for your climb! Many sections of the route are too firm to facilitate digging a t-slot anchor using either skis or an ice axe. Snow shovels are just as important as your ice axe and crampons; you'll need one at Camp Muir.

Happy Climbing!

Aerial Route Photos from Thursday, May 21st

Upper Ingraham Glacier

Fuhrer Finger

Upper Kautz Glacier

Success Couloir 

Tahoma Glacier

Mowich Face

Upper Ptarmigan Ridge

Upper Liberty Ridge