Getting to camp:
The trail to Glacier Basin is free of snow and great for running shoes. Make noise in the region of the turn off to the Emmons Moraine trail as a bear with a cub has been spotted in the area. If you happen to see the bear, make noise and make yourself appear bigger.
From Glacier Basin the route continues up the moraine trail to the tea gardens. There are many small trails through this area; whichever you choose, be mindful to stay on an existing path and not trample the meadows. Keep your eye out in this area, there have been many wildlife sightings recently.
Once the moraine trail meets the tea gardens, you’ll begin to move through patchy snow. Be careful through here and into the lower part of the inter glacier; as the snow melts the creeks hollow the snow out from below creating dangerous creek holes that you can punch into. You may hear the rumbling of water beneath you in the snow, see small holes that open down to a creek, or see creeks running towards you from the ridge line above. These are all signs that you are in a very thin region. Stay spread out to avoid overloading a single area and avoid the creeks if possible.
6/23/26 Examples of thin snow bridges over creeks
From there, you’ll follow the trail directly up the Inter Glacier. Be mindful of rockfall hazard and pay attention to where it is common by looking for rocks on the snow surface. Avoid stopping in these zones.
Keep an eye out for where the boot pack veers left to gain the ridge at Camp Curtis, you will want to follow this route to get to the Emmons Glacier rather than following skier’s tracks to the top of Steamboat Prow. Here (46.87290, -121.72624) are the coordinates of Camp Curtis, which will mark the start of your descent onto the Emmons.
Currently the descent onto the Emmons is all snow. Notice the rocks on the snow surface at the transition onto the Emmons Glacier. Many parties are transitioning to glacier travel mode in this rock fall zone which is not recommended. Look for a rock fall free zone to transition in. From here, the route to Camp Schurman is quite direct, though you will walk near opening crevasses: give these a wide berth as the weather warms.
6/20/26 - Textured snow on the corridor looking down towards Emmon's Flats (center left tents), Camp Schurman (far left tents), and the descent from Camp Curtis (center snow role on ridge) to the Emmons Glacier.
Camp Schurman:
Camp Schurman currently has many tent platforms dug out and space for more. Please respect the posted “Please Don’t Camp Here” sign on the saddle and camp at least 75 feet from the sign, this is the NPS temporary helipad until the traditional one melts out from the snow. Having the helipad clear of tents facilitates emergency operations if necessary. Both bathrooms are open at Schurman along with a blue bag barrel just outside the restroom.
Emmons flats:
There are existing tent platforms at camp and room for more. Keep in mind that this camp is on a glacier and you should take appropriate measures to ensure you are in a crevasse free zone before un-roping.
Upper mountain:
Taking a GPS track of your climb up is recommended for route finding on the way down; boot packs can melt out and not be obvious from above. Additionally, with spring and summer conditions, boot packs from old routes may still be present. Avoid following tracks just because they are there; instead, visually confirm that snow bridges are safe to travel over and place protection as necessary.
From Schurman, the route continues up the small hill to Emmons flats. Here the route angles up and climber’s left to the Corridor. Be aware that though this area looks smooth, large crevasses open between Emmon’s Flats and the corridor each summer.
Once on the Corridor, continue directly up. Make note of where the route veers climber’s right around 11.8k to avoid a crevasse. On the way down, many parties have been missing this switch back and have needed to backtrack in order to regain the route. See (the photo) for more information.
6/18/26 Approximate route location during week of 6/21/26. The orange circle marks the 11.8k location of confusion for descending parties.
At the top of the Corridor, around 12k, the route moves over a section of exposed ice. Consider placing protection in this area, to avoid a slip turning into a fall. Also in this area, you will move over a variety of snow bridges. Take care to inspect them before crossing and place protection for your party should they fail.
6/20/26 Looking down the crevasse crossings at ~12k at the top of the Corridor
There is a notable crevasse crossing at 12,200 ft as the route starts to traverse climbers right. Here, you will walk along the downhill edge of the crevasse. Though the boot pack may continue straight, look to your left immediately after encountering the crevasse for a better snow bridge to cross. Understand that if a snow bridge looks like a true “bridge” - a thin piece of snow spanning air - it is weak and very dangerous to cross. Instead look for a section of snow that completely fills in the crevasse and then protect it as necessary.
6/20/26 An example of a thin, dangerous snow bridge. The tracks seen are from an old route that should no longer be followed.
From here the route continues to traverse climbers right to the Winthrop shoulder. You will cross another crevasse around 12.6k, while gaining the shoulder, that is worth giving a thorough check and potentially protecting.
Continuing up the Winthrop Shoulder, the route is quite direct. You will encounter yet another notable crevasse at 13,000 ft. Be very skeptical of what route you choose to cross this crevasse, the old boot pack (which may not look old) leads over a very thin snow bridge. Instead, explore climbers left for a sturdier place to cross. Again, place protection to avoid a serious fall.
6/20/26 Parties descending near the 13k crevasse of note.
Above this, the route continues directly towards the summit.
Descent:
Descend the same route you used to ascend. Keep in mind that warming during the day can change the way things look and what is passable on the way down. Plan for this as you cross terrain on your ascent. Stay alert and protect steeper sections and snow bridges. Don’t be afraid to step out of the boot pack for better footing.
6/20/26 An approximate route location
Getting Here:
Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park.
Registration:
All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River Wilderness Information Center.
Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700.
Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit.
