The current, maintained climbing route in the Muir Corridor is officially the Disappointment Cleaver route. Guides have been working diligently to improve the route and have successfully summited over the past few days.
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| The Ingraham Glacier and Disappointment Cleaver |
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| The Disappointment Cleaver |
The Approach to Camp MuirDry trails and patchy snow exist on the hike up to Panorama Point and Pebble Creek. Please stay on trails or snow when possible to avoid trampling fragile alpine vegetation. The last place to fill up water is Pebble Creek (bring a water filter if you're planning to drink the water from there). Above Pebble Creek, there is continuous snow up the Muir Snowfield.
Camp Muir
As a reminder, the Public Shelter remains closed for construction so be prepared to camp on snow with a four-season tent. Multiple feet of snow have fallen this month, accompanied by strong winds, and heavy-duty tents are strongly recommended for the rapidly changing mountain conditions. Camp Muir facilities are fully functional--including bathrooms, a blue bag barrel, and an emergency radio located in the bathroom nearest to the helipad.
The Disappointment Cleaver Route
Early season conditions exist on the Disappointment Cleaver Route, with lots of snow covering the approach to Cathedral Gap and on the Cleaver itself (see photos). Guides have placed handlines and pickets on steep sections of the Cleaver and above. Clipping yourself to the handlines is not recommended--instead, simply use it for balance. Clipping through pickets to use as running protection is allowed, however be sure to test that it is well-secured in the snow and leave all of the equipment where you found it (pickets, carabiners, etc.) because it is property of the guide services.
While the route is maintained, be prepared to navigate this complex, glaciated terrain as if there were no wands or gear on the route. This includes being self-sufficient and able to self-rescue. Practice crevasse rescue with the team, rope, and gear that you are planning to climb with. Camp Muir is an excellent venue to sharpen technical skills before venturing onto the upper mountain.
Getting Here:
Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.
Registration:
All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700.
Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit.
