Aerial Route Photos from Thursday, May 21st

Upper Ingraham Glacier

Fuhrer Finger

Upper Kautz Glacier

Success Couloir 

Tahoma Glacier

Mowich Face

Upper Ptarmigan Ridge

Upper Liberty Ridge 

Memorial Day Weekend Conditions

 

View of the Emmons & Winthrop Glaciers from the top of Steamboat Prow

The roads on the east side of the park are scheduled to open this Friday for the summer - Chinook Pass, Cayuse Pass and the road up to the White River Campground will all be open to the public.  This will allow easier access for climbers and skiers to the Inter Glacier and the east side routes like the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Route and Liberty Ridge.  

White River Ranger Station and the Paradise Wilderness Information Center will open daily for the season starting this Friday as well.  Climbers and skiers must register in-person at a ranger station for any climb or ski on a glacier and/or above 10,000 feet.  Please see the "Permits and Fees" tab for more info.

There's a couple of things to remind potential climbers and skiers of as the holiday weekend approaches:

• Winter-like weather this last week drifted in a significant amount of new snow on leeward slopes.  Recently, both climbers & skiers have been turning around near 12k due to shooting cracks and dangerous looking wind slabs.  While avalanche conditions can change day to day (and even hour to hour) make sure your team can assess these hazards for themselves (there's no public avalanche forecast this time of year on Mount Rainier).  Do not venture up into avalanche terrain if you're not confident that it's safe to do so - especially with terrain traps like crevasses below you!

• There's limited resources available at Camp Schurman due to record level snow deposition on the ridge near the ranger hut.  The bathrooms, blue bag barrels, rescue litters and propane tanks are still buried under meters of snow.  All climbers and skiers will need to carry all their human waste in blue bags all the way out to the trailhead where there's a barrel near the bathroom in the White River Camp Ground Climbers Parking Area that's labeled for Blue Bags.  Consider bringing extra blue bags since there's no toilet available at Camp Schurman.  

• The weather forecast looks to be deteriorating into the weekend.  Both Friday & Saturday look decent and Sunday & Monday look to be cloudy with high chance of precipitation.  Forecasts can be wrong, but be cautious with deteriorating conditions like this - if something goes wrong (which can happen to anyone) and a rescue is required it can be prolonged or not even possible in a storm.

While there's so much joy and wonder that can be found up high on the slopes of Mount Rainier - it can also be unforgiving.  Please make sure to build in an extra margin for safety in any activity you plan on the mountain!  While the excitement of this "opening weekend" of the climbing/skiing season can be contagious - we hope that all visitors stay safe and continue to visit the mountain many more times in the future!  

Conditions and Permit Update: Camp Schurman, Emmons-Winthrop, and Liberty Ridge

Looking directly up at the Emmons Glacier.

Camp Schurman

SR 410/Chinook Pass is still closed for the season, limiting access to the east side of the national park. The target opening date is May 22nd. Biking and walking is allowed on the park road, but be vigilant for park vehicles traveling on the roadway.

Permits are self-registration only until May 22nd. After May 22nd, the White River Wilderness Information Center will be open 7:30am to 5:00pm. Self-registration is located in front of the White River Wilderness Information Center and walk-up registration is located inside.

Camp Schurman facilities, including bathrooms, are currently buried in snow and inaccessible. Plan to be self-sufficient on a trip up to and above Camp Schurman (including bringing blue bags and packing them out).

Buried Camp Schurman.

The view of the Emmons-Winthrop zone from Little Tahoma.

Liberty Ridge, early May 2026.

Emmons Update 6/18

 

The Emmons Winthrop route is still in good shape and has seen many successful ascents and descents in the past week. 

The trail to glacier basin is mostly snow free with a few patches of stubborn snow the final mile before. Above glacier basin there are various boot packs up the inter glacier to Camp Curtis. The Inter Glacier still has decent snow coverage from the winter with on fern ice on 6/18. There are a few open moats around the various nunataks, but no open crevasses were observed.

Looking up at the Inter Glacier from the moraine above glacier basin

A route to the Summit on 6/14/25

Although there is a well-established boot pack on a majority of the route climbers are encouraged to evaluate changing conditions and deteriorating snow bridges and make their own decisions on the best/safest path when necessary. There are a few points on the route where the well-trodden "path" crosses a marginal snow bridge. Safer crossings can be found by looking around to a less traveled area where a more robust bridge can be utilized or a crevasse can be end run. 

Crevasses at 11,400' - 6/14/2025

This last weekend we saw many descents by skiers and split boarders. When we talked with these parties on the route and back at Schurman many skiers used terms such as "bad skiing", "rugged", and "highly variable" when describing their descent. Many also reported carrying their equipment back down the mountain a distance before reaching a point they wanted to ski/board from. Further, rangers repeatedly observed riders get off their intended descent route at ~12,000ft landing them well above the corridor in broken and crevassed terrain. 

Boot pack at 13,400 - 6/14/2025

Overview of the Emmons route from Camp Schurman - 6/14/2025

If you are planning for a ski/board descent of the Emmons come prepared for variable surface conditions consisting of, sun cups, Penitentes, ice, and Sastrugi. If you are expecting planer surfaces and good corn skiing on the upper mountain you may be disappointed and find yourself in more challenging conditions. Carful route-finding is even more paramount when descending on skis due to the faster speed at which riders encounter terrain and a lack or rope to arrest a fall. 

If your team is planning on un-roping and riding down the mountain be thinking about your rope strategy... If you only have one rope for the team and the person who is carrying the rope falls into a crevasse, what is your plan?? 

North Side Photos and Route Info

The north side of Rainier 6/17/25

Climbing traffic has slowed down on the north side routes of Rainier over the last week due to changing route conditions and difficulty accessing some routes.

Liberty Ridge: Climbers have reported bailing from the approach to Liberty Ridge in recent days after having difficulty accessing the ridge from the Carbon glacier. Parties have reported a lack of adequate snow coverage on Liberty Ridge, which is typical for late June. Navigating the upper Carbon glacier has been difficult as well, with numerous open crevasses, necessitating circuitous travel.

Ptarmigan Ridge: Parties were successful on Ptarmigan in early June. There have been no reports of successful summits on this route over the last two weeks. Note that Ptarmigan ridge must be accessed from the White River campground this year due to the Mowich lake road closure. 

 Liberty Ridge (left) and Ptarmigan Ridge (center) on 6/17/25

Upper Mountain Conditions Photos from 5/23

Success Couloirs (Center)

Kautz Ice cliff (Center Right)

Russell Cliffs and Curtis Ridge (Willis Wall in the background)

Willis Wall and Liberty Ridge

Ptarmigan Ridge (Center)

April Showers.. and May Storms!

It's been an unprecedented stormy start to the summer on Mount Rainier.  Prepare for full winter conditions for any adventure in the park this May.  Not much to report conditions-wise since weather has been shutting most of the climbing and skiing down.  Use caution when entering onto steeper slopes on the upper mountain - the snow pack hasn't transitioned to a regular spring diurnal pattern yet, and there could be hazardous conditions with all of the new snow.  

The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is already open on weekends - come on up and register in-person!  Self-registration is still in effect during the weekdays until May 27th.  After May 27th the PWIC will be open everyday through the end of the climbing season in September.  Paying the Climbing Fee and obtaining a Climbing Permit is required for all climbers and skiers who journey above 10,000 feet or onto a glacier - even folks doing a single-push style ascent.

Rangers were able to get up in the helicopter for some aviation training and snapped some photos of the upper mountain.  See below for some photos taken May 10th and 11th.  We're excited for more stable weather patterns and a bit more sunshine - and excited to see everyone up on the mountain soon! 

Camp Muir and Camp Schurman update 6/14

Winthrop glacier from Camp Schurman

High camps were lonely this past weekend- and for good reason. An atmospheric river event slammed Mt. Rainier and Western Washington with an impressive moisture plume.

Radar image from Sunday night 6/13/21

Precipitation in the park is measured at Paradise, where the weather station recorded 2 inches of rain since Friday!

The freezing levels hovered between 9,000 and 11,000 feet during this storm. Winds were intense at both camps making travel on the upper mountain nearly impossible. Camp Muir felt the full force of this storm, being exposed to southerly flow. Sustained winds at Camp Muir exceeded 50 mph all day Sunday, and gusts up to 99 mph were recorded.

Check out the Northwest Avalanche Center website for real time weather data from the stations at Paradise and Camp Muir.

Camp Schruman after the storm broke Monday evening.

Looking forward, conditions will warm and dry by mid-week. This weekend will see temperatures rise and freezing levels climb above 13,000 feet. That's good news, certainly, but how will that affect climbing conditions?

All the precipitation from the recent storm fell as snow above 11,000 feet, or the level of Ingraham Flats. That means the upper mountain could have feet of wet, heavy new snow. Strong winds likely transported this new snow across the upper mountain and created fresh wind slabs that could be triggered by a climbing party. Teams attempting to climb this week must bring avalanche rescue gear- including a beacon, shovel, and probe for each climber.

Rising temperatures and the powerful June sun will slowly stabilize these avalanche hazards as we approach the weekend. However, dangerous avalanche conditions could linger near the summit into this weekend. Continually evaluate the snow conditions while climbing this week. A large drift of dry snow that sounds hollow or cracks when you walk through it should give you pause; and may be a reason to turn around.

Shooting cracks in a wind slab

For the most up to date weather information, check out the Mt. Rainier Recreational Forecast

The climbing routes up the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons/ Winthrop have not changed much in the last week. Check out the links above for more detailed information.

Climb safely, and enjoy the sunshine this week!

DC Route Conditions and Aerial Photos 6/2/2021

The Disappointment Cleaver and the upper Ingraham and Emmons Glaciers

A series of storms and lingering avalanche danger had shut the DC down to all guided and independent parties for eight days. After three days of calm and sunny weather however the guides re-established the route and the DC has been climbed every day since 5/31.

The route currently ascends the 'spine' of the Disappointment Cleaver and from there weaves it's way through the heavily crevassed upper Ingraham and Emmons glaciers.

Temperatures have warmed rapidly and with warming temps comes an increase in rockfall and crevasse fall danger. As we switch to summer climbing conditions please keep in mind the specific hazards that come with the changing season.

That said, climbing conditions are reported to be excellent now, so pick a good weather window and enjoy the mountain.

The rangers have been busy flying equipment to the high camps and removing human waste. We were lucky to get some great photos from the SW, East and NW aspects on the mountain. Here is a selection of them:

Wapowety Cleaver and the Kautz Glacier

Fuhrer's Finger

The upper Kautz and Nisqually Glaciers

The upper Nisqually, Ingraham and Emmons Glaciers.

The upper Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers

Curtis Ridge, the Willis Wall and Liberty Ridge

Climbing on Mount Rainier to Reopen June 19, 2020

The closure to visitor use above 10,500 feet will be lifted on June 19, 2020.  Currently, skiers and hikers are invited to ski, hike, and camp to and from Camps Muir and Schurman (and elsewhere below 10,500).  Remember, travel above high camps and/or glaciated travel still requires a climbing permit and payment of a climbing cost recovery fee.  Some temporary restrictions will still remain in place after June 19th.  Here is a substantive list of temporary use restrictions:

• Climbing party size limited to 6 climbers
• Camp Muir: 36 overnight non-guided users
• Ingraham Flats: 12 overnight non-guided users
• Muir Snowfield: 0 overnight users
• Camp Schurman: 12 overnight non-guided users
• Emmons Flats: 12 overnight non-guided users
• All other wilderness zone camping quotas are normal with a max party size of 6
• The Public Shelter at Camp Muir is CLOSED for visitor use and for emergency-use only

* PLEASE READ THE NOTE BELOW “Changes on the Disappointment Cleaver Route”.

Mount Rainier National Park also announced this morning (June 6, 2020) that it has reopened its gates to vehicular access including Paradise and White River which are popular access points for those destined to Camp Muir and Steamboat Prow.  See the press release here.

How to Obtain a Permit and Pay the Climbing Cost Recovery Fee

1)     Get a Reservation!

       a) All permits for overnight use including climbing will be made by reservation only. 

       b) Visit https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/wilderness-permit.htm.

2)     Park staff will contact you by phone or email within one week of the start of your trip to issue your permit.

3)     We will confirm each party member has paid the climbing cost recovery fee.  Each individual climbers pays the fee here.

4)     Your permit will be issued to you by email with supplemental information.

* Changes on the Disappointment Cleaver Route

For an indefinite period this summer, it will no longer be a novice climbing route.

Each year, roughly 10,500 people attempt to climb Mount Rainier.  About 85% of those choose to attempt the Disappointment Cleaver route.  Roughly 4,000 of those Disappointment Cleaver attempts are with one of the guide services.  

The guide services are permitted to put in temporary features and mitigations along the Disappointment Cleaver route to minimize the risks for their groups of climbers.  Among these features are ladders over crevasses, wands marking the route, fixed rope lines through steep/exposed terrain, and shoveled/chopped trail-like surfaces that make it possible to walk normally instead of using more difficult French crampon technique.  This is what makes the Disappointment Cleaver and attractive option for those wanting to travel a well-worn route to the top.

Guide services are not expected to resume their full schedule of guided climbs immediately.

As the Disappointment Cleaver opens for climbing, climbers will find very different conditions this season.  Without these features and adjuncts, the route will be much more difficult to climb, akin to other routes like the Kautz Glacier or the Tahoma Glacier Routes.  The Disappointment Cleaver and the Upper Ingraham Headwall are nearly 45-50 degrees in places.  A much greater repertoire of skills by all party members will be required to climb the route including expertise in French Technique, route finding, step chopping, setting belays, and crevasse rescue.

During poor or marginal weather, climbers normally have some assurance that they can find their way back down because of this well-worn trail with wands marking the route and its switchbacks.  There will be no established route!  Tracks are likely to fan out all over as climbers attempt to find ways around crevasses and seracs.  Guides normally put in hundreds of hours of effort each summer attempting to find the best (or only) route to the summit. This includes adjusting the route throughout the season as crevasses open and conditions change. This is time and effort that non-guided climbing parties will not have.

There is also normally a ‘community’ of climbers attempting the mountain each day.  There is a certain amount of safety in this number of climbers as non-related groups will often help each other along the way.  In the absence of the guide services running at full capacity and fewer non-guided climbers on the route due to the increased difficulty, it is much more likely that you’ll be alone on the route on your summit attempt.  So please take enough gear that you can thrive if you are forced to bivouac due to an injury or losing your way on the upper mountain.

If you would not normally consider climbing the Kautz Glacier or Tahoma Glacier routes, then this may not be the right year for your Disappointment Cleaver trip due to the increased difficulties.

Your Search and Rescue

Mount Rainier National Park maintains a team of rangers who are responsible for search and rescue operations on the upper mountain.  The park also maintains aviation staff and an exclusive-use helicopter based at Mount Rainier in support of search and rescue.  Our teams are trained and in place to conduct operations this summer.  

COVID-19 has prompted our teams to alter the way we conduct incidents and take precautions against the spread of this disease within our own workgroups.  These precautions may slow our response down in several ways.  It is very important for each climbing party to consider a delayed rescue response and equip themselves on summit attempts with gear to last comfortably if they should experience an emergency.

The National Park Service’s policy on search and rescue states that a reasonable attempt will be made to conduct search and rescue operations.  For each field rescuer, there are usually 2-3 people in a support role in the incident command center.  COVID-19 precautions effects all levels of any search and rescue operation.

COVID-19, Personal Protective Equipment, and Your Climb

We very humbly ask you to stay at home if you feel you are sick or are exhibiting symptoms consistent with COVID-19.  The rangers who staff the high camps are also the rangers who clean the toilets each day.  These are also the same rangers who perform the searches and rescues on the upper mountain.  If you know you’re sick and you attempt to climb anyway, you may not only get other climbers and park visitors sick, but you may also transmit this sickness to rangers.

During your climb, we ask you to:
1)     Descend if you feel you are getting sick and stay at home if you experience COVID-19 symptoms
2)     Bring your own bottle of hand sanitizer or disinfecting wipes and use them before entering toilets and after leaving
3)     Separate yourself as you are hiking/climbing and breathing forcefully
4)     Maintain your distance from other climbing parties

Thank You!

Mowich Face, May 27th, 2020

West - North Side Conditions Photos - 6/16/2019

Left to right: Sunset Ridge, Sunset Amphitheater, Puyallup Cleaver, Tahoma Glacier, Tahoma Cleaver.

On Sunday our helicopter crew took some aerial photos of the west and northwest side of the mountain on their flight up to North Cascades National Park. The hot weather appears to have taken its toll on Liberty Ridge.  Reports from several parties that approached Liberty Ridge over the weekend stated that the lower ridge is mostly rock and that there is near constant rockfall on the route.  Conditions turned most of these parties away.

Left to right: Ptarmigan Ridge, Mowich Face, Sunset Ridge.   

Left to right: Ptarmigan Ridge, North Mowich Headwall, Central Mowich Face, Edmunds Headwall, Sunset Ridge.

Left to right: Ptarmigan Ridge, North Mowich Icefall, North Mowich Headwall, Central Mowich Face, Edmunds Headwall, Sunset Ridge.

Ptarmigan Ridge in the center.  Mowich Face on the right.

Left to right: Curtis Ridge, Willis Wall, Liberty Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge, Mowich Face.