Climbers continue to explore the northeast side of Mount Rainier, frequently accessing the Inter Glacier, Camp Schurman, and the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers. This side of the mountain is an unmaintained wilderness experience that requires planning, preparation, and skills to have a successful trip.
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| The Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers |
The approach to Glacier Basin Campground is snow-free with plenty of places to access running water. Consistent snow begins around 6200' on the Inter Glacier, with increasingly visible moats and few crevasses. It is recommended that climbers rope up once on the Emmons Glacier to access Camp Schurman, as many crevasses exist and are thinly covered by the snow from the past week.
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Looking down the Inter Glacier
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Camp Schurman and Steamboat Prow
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Camp Schurman has fully operational facilities--two toilets, a blue bag barrel, and an emergency radio located on the front of the NPS hut. The helipad is currently covered in snow but can be seen in the photo below marked by a windsock. Please do your best to avoid camping on the helipad (the windsock has been removed). If permitted to camp at the Emmons Flats, roping up and traveling as a team to access that area is strongly recommended because it is necessary to cross several large, but currently bridged, crevasses.
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| Camp Schurman Camping |
The Emmons-Wintrhop route continues to be a relatively direct climb, with many parties successfully traversing from the Emmons to the Winthrop Glacier above the Corridor and ascending and descending the upper bergschrund.
With freezing levels reaching 16,500 feet over the past few days, it is important to have the skills to route-find in complex glaciated terrain if snow bridges over crevasses fall out on the ascent or descent. Place waypoints with mapping tools, consider placing pickets and belaying crossings, be well-rehearsed in crevasse rescue with the gear you are carrying, and understand that the summit is only the halfway point in your journey. The national park is experiencing peak busy season, which means that climbers need to be self-sufficient and able to self-rescue if necessary.
Skiers should be prepared to transition between skiing and roped climbing safely and also perform a rescue on an unroped partner in the event of a crevasse fall.
With warming temperatures and full sun, expect the route to change on a daily basis and be ready to adapt your plan based on conditions.
Getting Here:
Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.
Registration:
All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700.
Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit.
