As we enter the second week of June, significant low pressure systems have impacted Mt. Rainier National Park. Snow levels have crept as low as Paradise and accompanied winds have been strong to extreme on the upper mountain. New snow and wind transport, paired with cold temperatures has kept the upper mountain in a winter time snowpack with snow totals expected to be 1 - 2’ above high camps since June 7th. Rangers noted a variety of snow surfaces while climbing the Ingraham Direct ranging from scoured icy firm to new wind loaded slab formations over a foot deep on 6/7/26.
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| New snow on the Cowlitz with strong winds 6/9/26 |
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| Climber crossing a ladder on the Ingraham |
Around 12,400’, parties reported triggering a 12 inch deep by 60 foot wide pocket of wind slab, due to terrain there was not significant movement. With substantial new snow load comes the increased risk of avalanche hazard. Along with increased avalanche hazard, crevasses will become harder to read with a fresh coat of snow. No parties ventured far above the high camps on June 9th. The boot pack will be covered with new snow and difficult to follow.
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| Ladder crossing on the Ingraham |
Skiing on the ID at this point in the season is strongly discouraged as the snow texture is very three dimensional, making secure movement impossible. Even with the new snow, the middle portion of the Ingraham Glacier has numerous snow bridge and ladder crossings that require removing skis to negotiate.
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| Newly covered crevasses adjacent to the boot pack |
The Ingraham Direct route itself is still being climbed by both guide services as well as independent climbers. The route between 11,500’ and 12,000’ remains the most dynamic section with widening sections of crevasses and snow bridges. Adjuncts in the form of ladders and handlines exist through this area. This section is the most sensitive to warm weather and teams should be prepared for the possibility of any of these crevasse crossings to fall out. As always, remember to climb within the parties own ability, and to turn around when this threshold is being reached.
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| Climber triggered windslab around 12,400' - 6/7/26 |
As a reminder, the calendar may say that meteorological summer has arrived, however on Mount Rainier the weather can change quickly and can even differ from the predicted forecast. Rangers noted a large number of summer tents being used at Camp Muir, many breaking in the wind and new snow.
Getting Here:
Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.
Registration:
All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700.
Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit.
