Autumn Winter 24/ 25

Any party considering climbing should note that at this time the guide services have ceased operations on the upper mountain, and as such have removed all route adjuncts including ladders and handlines. While the boot pack previously used is still quite visible on the mountain, it will lead you to places where these adjuncts were previously in place, and where the crossings are no longer viable as such.

This significantly increases the technicality of moving through this terrain, and travel on the mountain, more than ever, will require independent route finding and assessment. Alongside this, there is a dramatically decreased likelihood of encountering other parties who could provide assistance in the case of an emergency. Any climber attempting the summit this time of year should consider it an off-season climb and be very experienced, totally self-sufficient, and realize that any emergency help could be not just hours, but days away. 

In the regular season, a trip to Camp Muir can often be done without that extra equipment, but as we move further into the season, conditions become extreme and can become dangerous with icy, crevassed surface conditions being hidden by fresh snow. 

Late season storms can roll in with little warning and can be much more vigorous and longer lasting than summer squalls. Please check the weather forecast before starting your trip - click on the Weather Resources tab above for some starting places - but keep in mind that forecasting for Mt Rainier is very difficult, so prepare for the unexpected! 

Stretches of beautiful summer-like weather can also be possible, and late-season visits do offer more solitude than the more popular times, but please be cautious this time of year. All climbers are still required to pay the annual climbing fee (which can be done online ahead of time) and obtain a climbing permit (which has switched to self-registration for the winter season and can be done in-person at the Paradise Old Station).  

Self-Registration is at the Paradise Ranger Station near the center of the photo.

Enjoy the change of seasons and climb safe!

Camp Schurman: Emmons-Winthrop and Fall Camp Closures

Thanks everyone for a wonderful climbing season. The following is an update on the route and expected closure for Camp Schurman:


The Changing Of The Seasons:

Temperatures are beginning to cool, moisture is in the air, and snowfall is once again arriving on the upper mountain. Fall weather patterns are settling in with more frequency and Labor Day Weekend has come to pass. The main climbing season is wrapping up here on Mt. Rainier.


What does that mean for the Emmons-Winthrop?

Nobody has successfully summited via the Emmons-Winthrop in several weeks and there is no established route. It has become extremely complex and difficult to navigate with many tricky, thin crossings, many sections requiring protection and a section that requires a vertical climb up and short rappel. There are numerous new crevasse complexes to work through starting right out of Camp Schurman and a route through would likely require significant variation off of the standard route. Guide services have called it for the season on this side.


What does this mean for the rangers and Camp Schurman?

On our end, rangers are beginning to shut down Camp Schurman for the season. This means rangers will not be staffing it. Camp itself is being winterized, so, no resources will be available. This includes bathrooms closing and other little things, like the webcams being taken out of services and blue bag barrels being flown out.


What does this mean for climbers?

If you do choose to venture on this side of the mountain, remember, it is going to be a truly remote and technical mountaineering experience. There have been multiple systems rolling through the region with Fall like weather that have brought snow and rain to the upper mountain. Prepare accordingly.

Disappointment Cleaver Update 08/29/2024

An interesting lenticular cloud from the top of the Cleaver on 8/26

This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Within the past week, Rainier put on a weather show closer to the Fall season than a "typical" late August. Stormy weather and colder temperatures resulted in fewer climbers at Muir, however, with the anticipated sunny skies/calmer winds this week, numbers have steadily increased. 

Raven perched on boulder with Rainier in background

The Muir Snowfield continues to remain in great condition this August - no visible cracks have opened up and though the snow has been slick and consolidated with many melt/freeze cycles - there's no skeletal blue ice showing yet.  Trekking poles and shoe chains are advised for the slick sections.  Also - be careful of rocks at the end of many of the glissade tracks!  There's a couple of major snow chutes that folks have been sliding down which end in pointy rocks - be sure that you can see the end of any glissade track before launching down it. 

At Camp Muir, the NPS has demolition projects happening on a few obsolete bathrooms. Please respect the workspace of the NPS crews and give them ample room to work (for your safety and theirs). Cargo nets and bags full of trash from these projects are awaiting flights, so please leave these alone and know that they are not for sitting on! 

View of Ingraham Flats as seen from the top of the DC

Above camp there are no major changes to the existing routes aside from the Cleaver entrance addressed below. The lower freezing levels this past week have helped to keep a certain "status quo" on the upper mountain, at least for now. Precipitation on 8/23, 8/24, and 8/27 fell in the form of snow at camp Muir and above. Accumulation was roughly 2-4in however wind drifted snow can fill the suncup deposits on upper slopes several inches thick. Rangers did not observe any avalanche hazard from the recent snow events.

From Ingraham Flats, independent and guide teams are still climbing both the "classic" DC route as well as the Emmons Shoulder route that wraps around the cleaver. The entrance on to the actual Cleaver recently had rockfall fill in the existing moat that forms in late season. This means two things: 

1. The entrance on to the DC is relatively straightforward now crossing 10-15ft of talus and boulders to the other side.

2. The fact that this happened just goes to show how much significant overhead hazard exists! Please do not take breaks under any overhead rockfall OR icefall zones. 

One of the high-crack ladders

The DC has four ladder crossings currently. Two horizontal ladders at High Crack (~11,400 ft), one vertical ladder at ~12,800 ft, and one double length ladder at 13,200 ft. Handlines exist directly below and above the ladder at 13,200 ft. This zone directly above the Cleaver can have significant bottlenecks form under overhead serac hazard. We recommend that parties space out while climbing through this section as no good places to pass teams really exist until above 13,200 ft. Above this zone the route is relatively straightforward, working its way to the crater rim.

Double ladder at 13,200ft

Rangers this past week did not get a chance to climb the alternate route on the Emmons shoulder due to stormy weather. Reports are that there are still no major changes to this option. 

 Always inspect ladders, handlines, and anchors with your own judgement. Guide teams work very hard to ensure these adjuncts remain in working order, however, understand that the mountain is a dynamic environment which can result in rapid changes in surface conditions. The anticipated high freezing levels will send us back to "summer conditions". Be on the watch for more crevasses opening, sagging snow bridges, and overhead rock/ice breaking loose. Beat the heat by climbing on the early side and get back to Muir at a reasonable time.

DC Update 8/21/24

 

This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

A few climbing teams have been making it to the top of Mount Rainier despite the unseasonably cold weather and stormy skies.  The first snow flurries fell last week along with some major lightning storms adding to the wintry vibe.

The Muir Snowfield has been in great condition this August - no visible cracks have opened up and though the snow has been slick and consolidated with many melt/freeze cycles - there's no skeletal blue ice showing yet.  Trekking poles and shoe chains are advised for the slick sections.  Also - be careful of rocks at the end of many of the glissade tracks!  There's a couple of major snow chutes that folks have been sliding down which end in pointy rocks - be sure that you can see the end of any glissade track before launching down it.  

At Camp Muir there's not as many folks as there were in July.  A feeling of solitude has returned.  There's no running water at camp so be sure to bring a stove and plenty of fuel to melt snow.  You'll probably want extra coffee/cocoa/tea with these colder nights.  

Above camp there's not any big changes to the route.  The lower freezing level has sort of locked in the route and less changes have occurred since it's cooler up high.  Crossing the Cowlitz is still straight forward - there's more crevasses open, but they're all easy to navigate around.  Cathedral Gap has a very defined and well wanded route through it.  Just above the gap and below Ingraham Flats Camp there's a section of the route that's exposed to rockfall from Cathedral Rocks.  Don't linger underneath these rocky cliffs.  A good way to tell you're in a rockfall zone is that there's rocks littering the glacier around you.  

From Ingraham Flats there's two routes that have been commonly climbed in the last week.  One is the standard DC Route which ascends out of Ingraham Flats and traverses onto the Cleaver itself and then reaches the Crater Rim fairly directly above the Cleaver.  This route currently has three ladder crossings.  The other route that's been climbed traverses out from Ingraham Flats and goes below the Cleaver and ascends the Emmons Glacier to reach the Upper Mountain.  It ties back in with the standard route around 13,250 feet.  This route does not have any ladder crossings, but there's a steep section which ascends a snow ramp through a jumble of snow blocks where a fixed rope line has been placed to use as a hand-line for extra security.  See map below for the approximate route locations.  

Note that these are not the only two ways to the summit.  Like all great glaciated climbing routes on the Cascade Volcanoes, there's always multiple ways to the summit - and being prepared to find another way when a crevasse bridge falls away or the glacier shifts is an important skill to have!  

A last note of caution as we get closer to winter: Consider your contingency plan when the weather gets colder/stormier.  Helicopters and rescue teams cannot respond when weather conditions get too stormy; any small mishap (like a crevasse fall, losing a glove, twisting an ankle, getting hit by a rock, etc.) can become a dire situation in a storm.  Make sure you consider your self-rescue plan when climbing up into conditions that can prevent outside rescue resources from helping you!

Disappointment Cleaver Update 8/12/24

 

August 12th, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Since the last route update on 8/2/24 Mount Rainier has experienced seasonably warm temperatures with a brief spell of rain up to 12,000 feet on 8/9/24. There has been little that has changed on the route other than that existing snow bridges are continuing to thin. Additionally, there are now two boarded ladders above Ingraham Flats.

There is a section with fixed rope leading to a ladder at 12,800ft and a double ladder at 13,200ft. Both of these places are causing bottlenecking. One strategy to alleviate congestion is to coordinate with other climbing teams in order to space out. If a backup is observed at these sights, consider waiting at a location above or below these sites that are free of overhead hazard while teams make their way through.

Photo of the portion with a ladder at 12,800ft as seen from the top of Disappointment Cleaver. Note the three climbers, the top one is on the ladder.

For specifics on the climbing route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct. Climbers should check in for their permits at the Paradise Wilderness Information Center, which is open seven days a week from 7:30am- 5pm. Also, please be sure to check out after completing your climb. 

Emmons-Winthrop Update 8/8/2024

Overview:

Approximate line of the Emmons-Winthrop Route as of 8/4/2024

As of 8/4/2024, the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier route still follows the general path of the 7/30/24 route update, Mount Rainier Climbing: Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 7/30/2024, however this week's heat has started taking its toll and conditions are quite dynamic along the standard route. Climbers attempting the Emmons side of the mountain should expect a higher technical bar for successful climbs and be prepared for:

• Belayed rope techniques for steep snow/ice and marginal crevasse-bridge crossings, including ability to build anchors in snow and ice  
• Careful crevasse-bridge stability assessment, both in cold-firm and soft-warming conditions
• Route finding in complex glaciated terrain, and preparedness for significant re-routes as current route conditions deteriorate 
• Increasing travel over blue ice as snow continues to melt out

Route Highlights:

Currently, the route has multiple crevasse crossings that are in marginal condition, and any one of these falling out could lead to significant re-routes. Be prepared for the possibility of a bridge crossed on the ascent having fallen out by the time you return on the descent. Have a plan to deal with this, such as an alternate route, or rappelling past the fallen crevasse bridge. Hedge your margins and plan your climbs to avoid being on the upper mountain midday when bridges are weakest in the heat, and ice fall is more prevalent. Additionally, set hard turnaround times that have you back at camp early, leave you with some extra gas in tank to deal with unexpected obstacles, and stick to that plan. Here are the major obstacles along the route as of 8/4:

• Series of 5-10' wide crevasses when gaining the corridor near 10,000' with thin, undercut bridges
• The corridor has several patches of exposed glacial ice up to 30 degrees steep that the routes ascends through, and vertical crevasses that parallel the boot track
• Two large crevasse crossings near 11,500' at the top of the corridor. The second of the two crossings is 30-40' wide and the bridge is precariously stacked with significant fall potential - a belayed crossing is recommended. 
• Near 12,000' is a 15-20' wide crevasse with a similarly precarious bridge crossing, a belay is recommended here as well
• ~12,400' where the route gains the Winthrop Rib is a widening crevasse with multiple thin, undercut bridges. End running this crack maybe possible down and climber's right. 
• 13,500' just before the route gains the Liberty Saddle is a long serac followed by an exposed step up and over a thinning bridge

11,500' crevasse bridge crossing

For those expecting a more typical glacier walk, this year's summer climbing season maybe winding down on the Emmons-Winthrop, however, make no mistake, the mountain is still very climbable and multiple options routes for those with a higher technical skill set and the intrepidness to explore Mt Rainier's largest glacier in deep summer. 

Emmons-Winthrop route track 8/4/2024

Disappointment Cleaver Update 08/02/2024

Route Overview:

The current route is in the same location as our route update on 07/28. The route is standard from Camp Muir to the top of the Cleaver, currently with no adjuncts. The route then goes direct from the top of the cleaver toward the summit. This takes climbers through a steep section of snow that ends in a single vertical ladder at 12.8k. There is a handline and pickets for running protection. As always, inspect these pieces of "fixed gear" before using them. Expect this section to change rapidly, especially with this prolonged period of high freezing levels. Below shows images of this section.

Topping out from the ladder, the route weaves through crevasses for a few hundred feet before approaching the traverse under a large crack at 13.2k that leads to the double ladder. This traverse is exposed to another section of overhead hazard, with a 'tidal wave' feature of sagging snow that hangs above in places. The route then ascends the double ladder that has fixed pro above, and a hand-line along the ladder. It continues through a steeper section that levels out around 13.5k, and continues to the summit. 

Takeaways and Messaging:

With warmer temperatures, we are seeing increased rockfall, ice fall and weakened snow bridges. If you plan to attempt a summit climb, returning back to terrain with minimal overhead hazard by 10am is advised - it's never great to be out on the upper mountain during the heat of the day. As always, move efficiently through these sections of objective hazard - don't stop for water or an equipment change below loose rock.  

The 'tidal wave' feature requires the same efficiency. This is an area of bottlenecking as climbers wait for their turn on the double ladder. Coordinate start times with other teams to minimize the potential for bottlenecking on the route, but if a line does form, wait out of the overhead hazard before your turn.  Also - consider looking for an alternative to the double ladder.  Glacier climbing requires looking beyond where others have gone before and finding the best path forward for your party.  Sometimes, that's turning around.   

If your party decides to use the double ladder, it requires 30ft of rope spacing between team members to ensure there aren't two people on the ladder at once. 

It is recommended to increase your team security to through these steeper sections, using a belay, fixed pro, prussiks, etc. The DC is in a more 'technical' state than normal. Proficiency with cramponing and increasing team security is required in the section between 12.8k-13.2k. 

Do not remove any equipment found on the route - and again - don't assume that any equipment found on the route is safe to use!  Inspect all route adjuncts and decide whether to use them or not - there's always another way! 

For a broad overview on the traditional climbing route, please reference the NPS route briefing packet-Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct

Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 7/30/2024

July 30th, 2024 

Overview:

Precipitation will be winding down today as a high pressure ridge enters the area. Freezing levels on the mountain will climb from 11,000 feet to 16,000 feet by mid-week and into the weekend. Check out the Mt. Rainier Recreational Forecast for more info.

The Emmons-Winthrop route remains climbable and the route conditions are average for this time of year. Some beautiful sunsets and sunrises have been occurring and Camp Schurman has been a wonderful place to watch these last couple of weeks.  In general, it continues to be an all time year to climb the Emmons-Winthrop.  A true joy.  With weather transitioning to sunny and hot, the route will continue to change and so will the hazards:

+Thin/weak snow bridges over crevasses

+Changing route

+Warm temperatures/dehydration

 

The Emmons Glacier and Little Tahoma from the east

Emmons-Winthrop Route: 

From White River: 

The trail is snow free to the base of the Inter Glacier. Climbing conditions on the Inter remain straightforward. Crevasses will continue to open around convexities with the forecast warm temperatures. Use caution if glissading. There's some steep icy pitches that end on rock islands.  Don't glissade in crampons.  

Camp Curtis to Camp Schurman: 

The transition from the dirt trail below Camp Curtis to the Emmons glacier has been giving some parties difficulty. The trail begins adjacent to the numbered sites at Camp Curtis. 

Accessing the glacier requires a 50-foot scramble down a loose gully (Class 2-3). Wearing crampons for this section may give some climbers more secure footing; make your own assessment.

Once below the downclimb, rope up before walking to Camp Schurman. This route from Camp Curtis onto the Emmons remains the preferred route and is easier than any alternative.

 

The scramble transition from Camp Curtis to the Emmons Glacier

Upper Mountain: 

The route above Camp Schurman is a tale of two boot packs - one is well defined, and the other is more recent and difficult to see. Climbers will need to leave the old boot back frequently to ascend the upper mountain. From Camp Schurman, follow the well-defined foot path up the Corridor. A few crevasses are opening up along the corridor with punchy snow bridges when the snow softens. 

At 11,500 feet, just above the corridor are two large crevasse crossings. The snow bridges spanning these crevasses are narrow and may require the use of snow anchors to belay climbers as they cross. A fall while crossing either of these bridges (or plugs) will not be held by team arrest. 

The first of two large crevasse crossing at 11,500 ft

The first crevasse crossing at 11,500 feet is simple and ample space exists above and below for snow anchors. The second crevasse crossing is more difficult to negotiate. The trail is narrow, exposed, and the bridge is showing signs of weakness. Using a belay here is recommended-especially on the descent. A rope interval of 35 feet between climbers is enough to span these crevasse crossings. Some parties have elected to turn around here.

 

The first of two large crevasse crossing at 11,500 ft (from uphill looking down)

Alpine Meadow: 

From the 11,500 ft crossings, the boot pack ascends straight up for a few hundred feet before making an ascending traverse to climbers right. Along this traverse, climbers will need to follow variations to the old boot pack to find intact snow bridges to cross several crevasses. A few wands exist in this area marking the better crossings but evaluate each one as conditions change. These crossings are easy to miss on the descent. 

Winthrop Shoulder:

The route makes switchbacks up the shoulder from 12,200 feet to 13,000 feet. Through this section, climbers will have to leave the defined boot back several times to find intact snow bridges to cross crevasses. The snow texture is ankle high sun cups that soften nicely after sunrise. At 13,000 feet, the well-defined boot pack begins traversing climber’s right towards Liberty Saddle.

The boot pack from 13,000 ft toward Liberty Saddle

Liberty Saddle to the Crater Rim:

Just below the saddle, the route end runs a large crevasse far to climber’s right. A half dozen crevasses can be end run by zig-zagging the low angle terrain. At 13,900 feet, traversing climber’s left above a large crevasse for about 500 feet will provide easier walking to the crater rim and will avoid the large penitentes just north of Columbia Crest. 

The Emmons-Winthrop route as of 7/30/2024

Risk Management and Time Management: 

The Emmons-Winthrop route is not easier than the Disappointment Cleaver route - and requires different skills. It requires a route-finding skillset and the ability to belay climbers and construct solid snow anchors. Crossing crevasses while temperatures are lower before sunrise will mitigate some risks. However, the route may be difficult to navigate in the dark. Dehydration is a major concern going into this weekend, and parties will need to manage time efficiently to avoid a long and hot descent. 

Early morning light from the top of the Corridor, looking SE

Additional Information 

- Check out the Emmons-Winthrop Route Brief for more information about climbing this route. 

- Some parties have discovered recently that the ski season is over on the route above Camp Schurman. Snow conditions are most conducive to climbing with mountaineering boots. 

- Equipment: a shovel is necessary for a flat tent platform at Camp Schurman. A couple ice screws may be a good addition to your team's crevasse rescue kit.

- Climbers can pick up their climbing permit at the White River Wilderness Information Center which is open 7:30 am to 5:00 pm daily, (phone: 360-569-6670). Blue bags can be gathered here. Please climb with blue bags. 

-Climbing permits may be obtained 24 hours in advance of the trip. Consider getting your permit the day before your trip to allow your party to get a pre-dawn start from White River. With the very warm weather expected this weekend, climbing while its cool will make the trip more enjoyable.

Leave No Trace on Rainier 7/29/2024

This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Leave No Trace on Rainier

Leave No Trace (LNT) is a term many backpackers and climbers are familiar with. This set of seven principles people follow in the backcountry to leave where they go looking as untouched as possible so that future generations can enjoy the same wilderness experience. A number of the principles also relate to your personal safety and will help you enjoy your experience in the wilderness.

From the impacts we have been seeing in Mount Rainier National Park it seems that some of these principles have been forgotten. Here's a rundown of how to apply the seven principles on Rainier and other alpine areas.

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare
Do your research on the route, climbing permits, and climbing fees a head of time.
Know and practice your skills before you get on the mountain (from your layering system to navigating in whiteouts to crevasse rescue), skills are perishable.
Use some form of GPS for route finding on mountain.

Know the gear you need and how to use it.

Be self-sufficient and prepared when you come on Rainier so you can prevent an incident. If things do go south, have the skills and equipment to care for yourself and teammates so you don't pull other people into your incident and endanger them.

2. Hike and Camp on Durable Surfaces
When climbing Rainier, most camp locations will have parties camped out on the most durable surface, snow. If you are lower on the mountain, camp only in preestablished sites and do not improve or invent any new sites.

3. Dispose of Your Waste Appropriately
Pack it in and then pack it out. Food scraps, empty fuel cannisters, water bottles, dental floss, used toilet paper and poop (to name a few), are commonly picked up at high camps. It does NOT biodegrade up high in the snow and will be sitting there for years to come. Rangers work hard to keep the mountain clean, but we need your help! Please pack down everything you've brought up with you.

Trash collected out of the public shelter at Camp Muir on 7/27/24

Human waste: You can't dig a cat-hole and bury it in a glacier and expect it to disappear forever. It will likely melt out later in the summer, or the following years. We have thousands of climbers on Rainier every year, imagine how the mountain would look (and smell) if folks didn't use our toilets or pack out their human waste!

Bring your blue bag / wag-bag and bring extra so that you have enough. Blue bags can be acquired at the Wilderness Information Center for free when you pick up your permit. Camp Muir and Camp Schurman have blue bag barrels where you can dispose of your blue bags for proper processing. 

Hole at Ingraham Flats full of human waste and toilet paper that rangers have to clean up.

4. Take Nothing but Pictures
Snap a photo of the awesome things you see so that you can remember them later. Leave all flowers, rocks, and other natural things alone. Don't feed or try to pet wildlife. Ravens and rodents are prevalent in high camps. Properly secure food and scented items.

5. Minimize your campfire impacts
This one is simple in the alpine. No fires are allowed in the alpine, and wood is kind of hard to come by.
What would Smokey Bear do? 

7. Respect Other Visitors
Watch out for bottle necks on routes- try to space yourself out from other parties when leaving camp on busy nights. Be careful when traveling on loose rock (keep your rope short) so you don't knock rocks off onto other people or knock rocks onto yourselves.

Please, help us keep our mountains looking pristine to provide an awesome climbing experience for all to have!

Kautz Glacier Conditions Report 7/27/24

July 28th, 2024


This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.


In recent weeks Mt Rainier has had overcast skies and slightly lower than average temperatures followed by clear skies and near normal temperatures. Snow levels are at about 7,600 feet and the wildflowers are in full effect in the subalpine meadows. There have been a few fires to the east and to the north, yet the air quality and upper mountain views have remained relatively clear. The main hazards that climbers should consider include:

+Ice fall under seracs and rock fall

+Crevasse fall due to thin snow bridges

+Dehydration

Kautz Glacier Route

The approach to the Kautz Glacier route via Commet Falls trailhead is free of snow up to the Turtle Snowfield at about 7,000 feet. At this time hikers will see numerous wildflowers including lupine, paintbrush, avalanche lilies and pasqueflowers. Please avoid the temptation to pick the flowers and only take photos. The approach via the Lower Nisqually to the Wilson Bench is heavily crevassed but passable at this time.

Approach track via Commet Falls Trailhead

Campsites at both upper and lower Castle Camp (9,200 feet and 9,400 feet) are snow free with running water near by. The upper bivies between 10,800 and 11,200 feet are also snow free. Please make use of existing tent platforms and avoid creating new sites when possible.

 

An example of a Kautz Route track

The rock step at the start of the Kautz climb is still currently filled in making for a small move down onto the snow. There is an existing anchor and fixed rope here. Be sure to inspect for yourself if choosing to use this for security. The ice chute has one mandatory ice step at the very base. This portion is about 50 feet long. Options for additional pitches of ice exist to the climbers right of the steeped snow in the center of the chute. The remaining snow is heavily sun affected and has formed into buckets and steps.

 

Lower ice chute displaying the ice step

Once past the ice chute, navigating both the upper Kautz Glacier and the Upper Nisqually involve crossing a series of snow bridges and moving over penitentes. These are snow “spikes” which form at high altitudes and are the result of radiation and sublimation of the snow. Consider adjusting your estimated travel times as these features reduce the speed of travel somewhat.

 

Wapowety Cleaver looking across the upper Nisqually

For specifics on the Kautz Glacier route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Kautz Glacier Guide. Climer registration can be done at either the Longmire Wilderness Information Center or the Paradise Wilderness Information Center. Both are open from 7:30 am- 5:00pm daily. “Blue bags,” or human waste bags, can be found here. Please carry all waste off the mountain. Be sure to check out at after finishing your climb. Lastly remember to pay for an annual climbing cost recovery fee.

  

Disappointment Cleaver Update 7/28

This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Overview

The guided route up the Disappointment Cleaver continues to change. The guide services worked all day yesterday to establish a route that goes through to the summit without traversing below and through the recent ice fall on the Ingraham Glacier. The route currently travels straight up from the Cleaver. There is a handline through a steep pitch of snow. Expect this section to change rapidly and potentially require a ladder soon. After the handline parties will encounter steep ladders at 12,800' and 13,200'. As is always the case, inspect these pieces before using them and expect rapid change as the snow melts throughout the day. We are continuing to see warmer than average temperatures on the mountain.

Takeaways

With warmer temperatures we are seeing increased rockfall, icefall and weakened snow bridges. If you plan to attempt a summit climb, returning back to terrain with minimal overhead hazard by 10am is advised. Substantial delays and bottlenecks were observed today at the adjunct locations, these slowed climbers down by over an hour. Additionally, climbers reported watching ice fall occur near these ladders.

Double Ladder at 13,200'

Multiple Parties waiting at the 13,200' Ladder

Bottom line, the DC is in a slightly more "technical" state than normal. Independent climbers should be prepared to utilize their ropes, pickets, prussiks, etc. for belay, ascension, and descension on the more challenging sections. Climbers should also be prepared to coordinate with other teams to manage the potential for bottlenecking on route. Please be prepared to assess the quality of all fixed gear, ropes, and ladders. Do not remove any equipment found on route. For a broad overview on the traditional climbing route, please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct

Disappointment Cleaver Update 7/27

This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

July 27, 2024

In the last 24 hours the guided route above the Disappointment Cleaver was taken out by major Ice fall on the Ingraham Glacier. Due to the severe overhead hazard of house sized serac blocks the guides are no longer traversing from the top of the Cleaver toward Camp Comfort. 

Large Icefall on the Upper Ingraham which took out the Guided route above the Cleaver.

There is currently no guide established route. Guides are working hard at this time to establish a new route. 

Disappointment Cleaver Update 7/26/24

 July 26, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Overview

Winter of 2024 brought slightly warmer than average temperatures, resulting in average seasonable snowfall on the upper and mid mountain. Below ~5000ft, snow totals were below average. Currently the snow line is at about 7000 - 7500 feet. Summer is here on Mount Rainier and freezing levels have been at or above the summit for the last 3 weeks. Crevasses are opening up and the route has seen some significant variations compared to years past. Many teams have been reaching the summit with the current established routes. Some of the hazards associated with higher temperatures include:

               + Rock fall/Icefall

               + Crevasse Bridge Collapse

               +Dehydration and Heat Illness

 

Muir Route

The path to Camp Muir up the Muir Snowfield currently follows the standard summer trail. Please pay special attention to trail markings and stay on the trail as the local alpine meadows are fragile and unique. Above Pebble Creek the route is mostly snow covered to Camp Muir

Disappointment Cleaver

The route to Ingraham Flats from Camp Muir takes the standard route. It is well marked and boot packed. Climbers should be prepared to shorten their rope spacing after getting off the Cowlitz Glacier and before crossing Cathedral Gap. This will reduce risk of crossing ropes with other teams and  knocking loose rocks onto climbers below.

The route above Ingraham Flats currently ascends the Disappointment Cleaver to its top. The path is clear of any major cracks and gaining the Cleaver is straightforward. On the Cleaver, teams should be prepared to shorten rope spacing and get the rope off the ground to minimize rock fall hazard on climbers below. The Cleaver is approximately 25% snow covered, with intermittent patches remaining throughout the ridge. 

From the top of the Cleaver, only one established route currently goes to the summit. This route is marked in the map below. A previous variation, noted as the "red variation" in the 7/20/24 post, has seen critical ladder crossings fall out of condition. While it is possible that this section will get reestablished, it is not currently climbable.

Track from Rangers climbing on 7/20/24

The current route requires one to travel climbers right off the top of the Cleaver along a wanded boot pack under a large serac. This is followed by a few sections of fixed pickets, ladders, and ropes. At ~13,000', the route downshifts in technical difficulty and becomes similar to more typical DC conditions with a well-established, wanded boot pack to the summit. It is possible that recent high winds have knocked over some wands up high. Climbers should have confidence in navigating the upper portion of the route without the common wanded handrail. It is worth noting on this route that there is no getting around accepting the hazards associated with traveling under a serac.

 The top of the Cleaver is a few hundred feet up and climbers right of where this image was taken. From there, climbers are traveling through the terrain below the well-defined serac on the horizon line of this image. Evidence of a serac avalanche that occurred in early June can be seen in this image.

Bottom line, the DC is in a slightly more "technical" state than normal.  Independent climbers should be prepared to utilize their ropes, pickets, prussiks, etc. for belay, ascension, and descension on the more challenging sections. Climbers should also be prepared to coordinate with other teams to manage the potential for bottle necking on route. Please be prepared to assess the quality of all fixed gear, ropes, and ladders. Do not remove any equipment found on route. For a broad overview on the traditional climbing route, please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct

The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00. Check in here before your climb to receive your permit, to check for walk up availability, and pick up "Blue Bags" for human waste. You will also check out at the PWIC at the end of trip.  Lastly, please remember to pay the Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee. 

We look forward to seeing you in the hills!

Disappointment Cleaver Update

July 21, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Overview

Winter of 2024 brought slightly warmer than average temperatures, resulting in average seasonable snowfall on the upper and mid mountain. Below ~5000ft, snow totals were below average. Currently the snow line is at about 7500 feet. Summer is here on Mount Rainier and freezing levels have been at or above the summit for the last 3 weeks. Crevasses are opening up and the route has seen some significant variations compared to years past. Many teams have been reaching the summit with the current established routes. Some of the hazards associated with higher temperatures include:

               + Rock fall/Icefall

               + Crevasse Bridge Collapse

               +Dehydration and Heat Illness

 

Muir Route

The path to Camp Muir up the Muir Snowfield currently follows the standard summer trail. Please pay special attention to trail markings and stay on the trail as the local alpine meadows are fragile and unique. Above Pebble Creek the route is mostly snow covered to Camp Muir

Disappointment Cleaver

The route to Ingraham Flats from Camp Muir takes the standard route. It is well marked and boot packed. Climbers should be prepared to shorten their rope spacing after getting off the Cowlitz Glacier and before crossing Cathedral Gap. This will reduce risk of tangling ropes with other teams and minimize the risk of knocking rocks loose onto teams below.

The route above Ingraham Flats currently ascends the Disappointment Cleaver to ~12000ft. The path is clear of any major cracks and gaining the Cleaver is straightforward. On the Cleaver, teams should be prepared to shorten rope spacing and get the rope off the ground to minimize rock fall hazard on climbers below. The Cleaver is approximately 25% snow covered, with intermittent patches remaining throughout the ridge. 

At ~12000ft, two route variation exist. These route variations both involve ladders and utilization of fixed protection and ropes. These adjuncts are maintained by the guide services. While adjuncts do see consistent maintenance, changing daily conditions regularly affect the quality of anchors. Recreational climbers should be prepared to evaluate the condition of all fixed ladders, ropes, and protection. Each variation presents its own challenges and hazards. The variations are marked in red and blue on the topo below.

Track from Rangers climbing on 7/20/24

The "red variation" involves ladders and fixed ropes that travel through a ~50 meter section of ~55 degree terrain. Climbers should be prepared to manage a "pitch" of technical climbing on both the climb and descent for this variation. This section also represents a potential "bottle neck" where climbing can slow down as multiple parties queue up behind one another. Climbers would be wise to coordinate with other teams prior to climbing to manage too many parties stacking up in this section at once. Otherwise, the climbing below and above the bottle neck is well established and straightforward climbing. 

The "red variation". This travels to the indistinct gulley in the center of the horizon line. The gulley is detailed in the image below.

The crux of the red variation. The ladder marks the start of the fixed lines. The fixed lines travel through the right leaning snow/ice ramp and end at a fixed anchor on the ridge.

The blue variation involves less difficult climbing but has a few sections of ladders and fixed lines to manage. It also travels under a large serac for a period of time. Travel on this variation is quicker and less prone to the bottle neck issues of the red variation. However, one must accept the hazards associated with traveling under a serac. From the top of the Cleaver, one will find wands and an impacted path traveling climbers right toward the serac in the image below.

The "blue variation" as seen from below. The top of the Cleaver is a few hundred feet up and climbers right of where this image was taken. From there, climbers are traveling through the terrain below the well-defined serac on the horizon line of this image. Evidence of a serac avalanche that occurred in early June can be seen in this image.

Each variation presents its own challenges. Both routes converge at ~13000ft. The conditions have not slowed down the guide services and most independent teams are successfully managing the current conditions. Bottom line, the DC is in a slightly more "technical" state than normal.  Independent climbers should be prepared to utilize their ropes, pickets, prussiks, etc. for belay, ascension, and descension on the more challenging sections. Climbers should also be prepared to coordinate with other teams to manage the potential for bottle necking on route. Please leave all fixed gear, ropes, and ladders in place. For specifics on the climbing route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct

The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00. Check in here before your climb to receive your permit, or to check for walk up availability and be sure to check out here at the end of trip. "Blue Bags" used for human waste can be picked up here. Also please remember to pay the Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee.

Emmons Update 7/13/24

July 14th, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

During the month of July, Mt Rainier has been experiencing clear sunny weather with above average temperatures and freezing levels between 14,000-15,500 feet. Current hazards include:

+Thin Snow Bridges and Crevasse Falls

+Knee Strain/Strain and Lower Leg punctures by Crampon Points due to Soft Snow

+Dehydration

The approach to Glacier Basin is currently snow free and the Inter Glacier is still holding winter snow. When dropping from Camp Curtis to get on to the Emmons Glacier, be sure to rope up for glacier travel. Rangers have observed teams traveling this section to Camp Schurman without a rope, particularly when descending from camp. There are numerous large crevasses in this section.

Image of climbers traveling without a rope in use on the Lower Emmons approaching Camp Schurman.

The route has continued to follow the same path as the last week or two. Some things to consider are that with warm temperatures snow bridges have been continuing to thin. The existing "trail" goes over thin portions of numerous snow bridges which were robust a week ago, and are now beginning to sag, which is an early sign of impending collapse. Use discretion when crossing and do not hesitate to go off the boot pack to cross a thicker portion of the snow bridge.

Route as scene from Camp Shurman. Note yellow line indicating the 11,400 foot "plug" detailed bellow.

At least one snow bridge crossing should require additional attention at this time. This is the 11,400 foot "plug". It is a major bridge roughly the width of a dump truck and if it were to fail with a climber on it there is possibility for a major swing into the adjacent wall. Additionally, this crossing is long enough that more than one climber at a time could end up on it, both increasing the likelihood of collapse, and making a team arrest more difficult. Consider adding security when crossing this, particularly on the descent. 

Side profile of the snow bridge at 11,400 feet. This image demonstrates the length; the width is about as wide as a dump truck. Use additional caution when crossing this. Or considering finding an alternative work around.

Please be sure to climb with "blue bags" on route. These can be disposed of at Camp Schurman at the designated barrel by the doors to the entrance of the restrooms. These can be picked up at the White River Wilderness Information Center (open every day from 7:30 am to 5:00 pm), the same location as where climbers pick up their climbing permits. Also, when there be sure to observe the printed-out photo of where tent platforms are allowed next to camp Schurman. For more information about climbing the Emmons route consult the Emmons-Winthrop Route Brief. Remember to pay for you annual climber's recovery free, found here.

Trash, Waste, and Leave No Trace! Cleaning Up Muir and a DC Update!

With the increased numbers of visitors utilizing Camp Muir as summer takes off, rangers have been finding more and more trash around Camp Muir that isn't being managed properly. No trash removal is provided by the park service at any of the high camps. All trash must be hiked out. Unfortunately, people are increasingly leaving trash hidden or stuffed in corners around camp, in the bathrooms, hidden in the snow, and piled in the public shelter. This is starting to have a significant impact on camps, as it is attracting mice. The public shelter is the publics' shelter. Not the rangers' or guide services.' This means it is a shared resource. A resource every user is responsible for. People all too often convince themselves that leaving their half-eaten Mountain House or fuel canister is "helpful." But soon, every other climber does the same, and a mound of trash is left behind. Please be mindful of this and hike out all of your trash. Help manage the shelter by hiking out any other trash you may find. Leave the shelter like you would want to find it when you first arrive. 

When it comes to human waste, more is also emerging on route and around camps. Please utilize the bathrooms around camp and the blue waste bags for disposal on route. Remember to carry them with you back to camp. The blue bags are provided by the ranger stations if you forgot to bring any. Don't leave them on route with the expectation they will be there on the descent. They will blow away and can become an unpleasant object to have fall down the mountain. The park service does provide disposal at the high camps for the blue bags. There will be marked barrels near the bathrooms. If you are unsure of where to dispose of them, please ask! Don't stuff them into the toilet systems, which may break the system, or hide them around camp. Several unsavory discoveries have been made.

DC Route Update:

The heatwave over the past week brought freezing levels up to 17,000' at times, with little to no radiative cooling and strong winds. Most climbers are shifting start times earlier in order to climb through the night so they are done by the time the sun and heat hits the route. This helps minimize exposure to rockfall and crevasse crossing hazards. The loss of snowpack means the Cleaver is now largely rock until the upper portion. Travel carefully and short rope through this section to help minimize knocking down loose rock. 

As of Sunday the 7th, the route from the top of the Cleaver continues up a steep traverse where there are handlines and fixed pickets for running protection. Remember that these pickets need to be checked before use as the warm temps have melted them out. The route then arrives at a series of switchbacks before the route continues up two vertical ladders to make it up a large step around 13,200'. 

We have received multiple reports since yesterday (7/10) that a large crevasse collapsed around 12,800' where the switchbacks started. This occurred sometime in the afternoon and a party descending late in the day was trapped above for a short time before being forced to rappel into the crevasse and climb out the bottom. This serves as a reminder that parties need to be prepared to route-find, safely utilize technical climbing skills, and potentially climb back up and then descend alternative routes. Multiple guide parties are currently working to establish a reroute around this new feature as it has stopped multiple parties who have been unable to find a route around. Please be respectful of these parties as they work.  

Additional Notes:

Please remember that the DC route is popular, but it is still a technical, high-altitude mountaineering route that requires skilled use of alpine climbing and glacier travel techniques and equipment. Many parties are climbing with the expectation of somebody being nearby to quickly provide assistance and are projecting their risk onto others without consideration. If you can't fully manage your own risk, consider shifting to another objective on Rainier or in the Cascades to build those skills. With the current reroute underway, these skills are even more important, as you may have to do your own route-finding. The ability of your party to be self-sufficient is imperative for a safe and successful mission.