Disappointment Cleaver Update 8/7/26

Seeking an escape from the smoke covering much of the Pacific Northwest, climbers and day-hikers alike are enjoying the fresh mountain air at Camp Muir and beyond. The Disappointment Cleaver route is holding up and many climbing parties have successfully summited as we enter the late-summer climbing season. Sunny weather and calm winds have made for pleasant climbing conditions, however precipitation and cooler temperatures are expected to arrive later in the week.

The main hazards associated with this time of year include:

• Overhead hazard from rockfall and icefall

• Thin snow bridges

• Exhaustion and dehydration

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route

The Muir Snowfield:

• Do your best to avoid trampling fragile alpine vegetation by staying on trail or snow as you ascend from Paradise. 

• Some people may find foot-traction, such as micro-spikes or crampons, useful with the current snowfield conditions. The amount of bare glacial ice visible on the snowfield will increase as the season continues.

• Use caution when glissading down the snowfield due to exposed rocks, cracks in the ice, and water running beneath the snow.

Camp Muir:

• The Public Shelter remains closed for construction.

• There is no running water at Camp Muir.

• Ravens have been aggressively tearing into people’s trash–keep your camp tidy.

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route:

The route remains reasonably direct and efficient for this time of year. Review the previous two DC blog posts to gain context on how the route has been evolving. Much of it remains the same.

Remember to rope up just past Camp Muir, as you are immediately on the Cowlitz Glacier. There has been active rockfall across the Cowlitz from Gibraltar Rock and Cathedral Rock so move through this terrain efficiently.

The guiding services mark the route with wands that reflect headlamps. Two wands next to each other often signal a change in direction (switchback) or re-route. Wands often fall over (especially on the Cleaver), so have a backup plan if wands are not visible. Use critical thinking and navigational tools, such as a GPX file and mapping app.

Past Ingraham Flats, the High Crack ladder remains in place. There is a traverse from High Crack across to the Ice Box and Bowling Alley area, where periods of rockfall have been observed. To manage your team’s exposure to rockfall, plan to take breaks in areas of less overhead hazard and then move quickly when traveling underneath any rock. There is still a viable route on to the Cleaver itself, with a hand-line for climbers to use for balance-only. Avoid clipping into this hand-line.

The High Crack Ladder

The DC itself is fully melted out and it primarily involves rock travel. Remember to use careful footwork and don’t let your rope drag on the ground through this section; avoid sweeping rocks down on parties beneath you. The uphill party is responsible for mitigating this avoidable rockfall hazard. If you’re concerned about kicking rocks down on other parties, simply stop moving and wait for the area below you to be clear of people before you continue. Communicate and be patient.

Travel on the Disappointment Cleaver is mostly on rock.

Above the Cleaver, the route passes several glacial features and traverses climber’s right around 12,800 feet. There are several switchbacks and sections with fixed pickets to protect exposed areas. Please leave all equipment (like carabiners) on the pickets where you found them. Snow bridges over crevasses may weaken with warmer daytime temperatures so be prepared to navigate around crevasses or protect crossings with pickets and/or a belay. There is a wooden board that serves the same purpose as a ladder above 13,000 feet. The route ascends steadily to the Crater Rim–but remember: the summit is only the halfway point. Reserve enough energy, food, and water for the journey back down. 

Additional Information

There is an active fire near Grand Park in the northeast area of the park. Sunrise Road and White River Road to SR410 are CLOSED until further notice. All trails originating from these park roads, and all trails in the Grand Park area, are also closed until further notice. Updated 8/9/2026.

                                        https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/fire.htm

    A climbing permit and Payment of the Climbing Cost and Recovery Fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on Mount Rainier National Parks Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm. Remember to Leave No Trace on the mountain (and in the Camp Muir Public Shelter).

The Grand Park 2 Fire is visible from the Cleaver.

August on the Emmons

!Alert! Due to wildfire activity in the Grand Park area, the East side of the park has been closed as of 08/08/2026.  The closure is at the White River Entrance near the ranger station, and includes the White River Campground and Sunrise areas. Please check current conditions and park closures/openings here for more up to date and further information. 

The upper Emmons-Winthrop Glaciers. 

August has arrived at Mt Rainier, and while the low country in the park remains as busy as ever, the season is shifting on the upper mountain and climber traffic is slowing down, especially on the Emmons-Winthrop side of the mountain. Recent reports from the last week have had only a few independent teams and a couple guided groups venturing up the Emmons. Most have reported turning around above the top of the corridor in the ~12,000'-12,500' zone where the glacier is becoming quite broken and hard to navigate. Teams have also reported difficulties crossing the moraine from Camp Curtis onto the Emmons below Camp Schurman, and some are even opting to turn around here due to the loose rock, exposure, and moat crossing at the bottom of the moraine. 

The Corridor with large sun cups 

For those still coming up to explore the Emmons-Winthrop late season there are few things to keep in mind. Guided groups will be winding down their season in early-August and climbing rangers will not be at Camp Schurman as frequently, so come prepared for a remote, wilderness glacier climb where you may be the only people on this side of the mountain. Climb well within your physical and technical skill set and make conservative choices.  There will be no wands or boot pack.  

The bathrooms at Camp Schurman are still open and are typically closed for the winter around the start of September - we'll keep you posted. As always, please pack out all of your trash and come prepared to pack out your human waste should nature call away from camp. 

Looking back at Camp Curtis and the moraine access to the Emmons Glacier from Camp Schurman

Late season glacier routes can be very circuitous and challenging with many large, long crevasses, so teams should be prepared for a longer time on route and more technical conditions. There is often much more exposed glacial ice later in the season too. The Inter Glacier on the approach to camp Schurman can become quite icy in late summer, and even has a few crevasses. As of 8/07/26, the Inter was still 90% snow and the majority of teams were choosing to ascend that way. 

Smoke from the Grand Park fire as seen from Ruth Ridge. 

For those looking for solitude and challenge, late summer and fall can still be a fine time to climb on the Emmons side of the mountain. Those willing to pioneer new terrain in technical conditions can often find success. Happy climbing.

August DC Update

The Disappointment Cleaver route has held up nicely through July.  Guides have done an amazing amount of work to keep the route climbing smoothly.  As August arrives on the mountain so can smoke and heat.  Please make sure to hydrate (not just water, but salts/electrolytes too) and be cautious of your respiratory system during periods of poor air quality.  

See the climbers just past the old serac fall debris.  Don't linger on this traverse.

The route is mostly unchanged from the last update.  From Camp Muir the boot pack crosses the Cowlitz Glacier and ascends Cathedral Gap.  The section near Cathedral Rocks has mostly melted out and climber's should use extra caution here as they ascend/descend - it can be tricky walking on rock with crampons on.  Take your time and use your ice axe or trekking pole as a third point of contact.  Same goes for the Cleaver itself - it's almost all melted out and 99% rock travel.  

The Disappointment Cleaver is almost all melted out for the season.

 

Getting onto the Cleaver has been in good shape.  The snow bridge that climbers accessed the Cleaver with this last weekend was large and supported.  As the temperatures rise and things continue to melt keep an eye on this entrance/exit on and off the Cleaver - the snow bridge in place now won't last forever. The moat between the Cleaver and Ingraham has started to yawn open and has provided a bit more protection from falling rock.  Remember to move efficiently and not to stop and take breaks in areas prone to rockfall - limit your exposure.  Plan ahead and take a break before and after these more hazardous areas. 

 

  

The entrance onto the Cleaver.  Note all the rocks on the snow.  Don't linger on this traverse. 

 

From the top of the Cleaver climbers have ascended almost straight up before traversing briefly to climber's right around 12,800 and then making their way back towards the Crater Rim.  Average climbing times have still been fairly reasonable.  The route hasn't gotten too circuitous.  Check out our Route Brief for the Disappointment Cleaver for more information and suggestions.  Happy August!    

 

Disappointment Cleaver Update 7/13/26

     

Looking down from the Disappointment Cleaver towards Ingraham Flats and Mt Adams in the hazy background. 

It has been a windy week here at Mt Rainier. Sunday morning (7/12) at 2 am our telemetry at the ranger hut recorded a wind gust of 92 mph. Current forecasts looking ahead have winds moderating with a small chance of precipitation Thursday before warm, high pressure moves into the region with the weekend. Despite the strong winds of the last few days, there were still teams that managed to summit.

    As of Monday 7/13/26, the Disappointment Cleaver is still holding quite a bit of snow. Right out of camp Muir, there are several cracks beginning to emerge on the Cowlitz Glacier serving as reminder to stay diligent this time of year with hidden/subtle crevasses. Cathedral Gap is bare dirt on the Cowlitz side; however, it is mostly snow after turning the corner onto the Ingraham Glacier. This section of the route between Cathedral Gap and Ingraham Flats often has a lot of rockfall where the route is close to the cliff and teams should avoid stopping here. 

The ladder crossing High crack above Ingraham Flats. This ladder marks the start of the traverse under the Ice Box and Bowling Alley. Teams should move purposefully through here until they are past all overhead hazards.

    Teams will encounter a flat ladder above Ingraham Flats where the route takes a right turn to traverse out to the bottom of the cleaver. The traverse from this ladder out to the cleaver has significant overhead hazards and teams should move quickly through here and limit their time exposed to overhead hazard. Teams are encouraged to inspect any location they stop for rest by looking up and assessing whether something could fall on you.

Penitentes on the Cleaver. 

The cleaver was about 50/50 snow and rock but with warm weather in the forecast it could be mostly rock soon. Above the cleaver the route ascends through steeper switch backs, avoiding the seracs of the upper Ingraham glacier, and over a large crevasse bridge up to a junction near ~12,800'. Here, the primary route makes a rightward traverse out the Emmons glacier shoulder to end run a large crevasse at 13k' guarding access to the upper mountain. From the Emmons shoulder there are a few more crevasses but mostly mellow terrain to the summit. For a steeper and less established option, it possible to climb up from the 12,800' junction and slightly left belaying over a steep, offset crevasse bridge. This direct, steeper variation ties back in with the primary route near 13,500'. 

Looking up from the top of the cleaver. A group of 3 climbers can be seen negotiating the switchbacks near 12,700. The climber's right traverse begins shortly after those switchbacks.

Looking back at the traverse from the Emmons Shoulder. The traverse is generally level with no more than ~50' of elevation loss/gain.

    The winds this past week have helped slow the snow melt, however warmer weather is the in the forecast. The route this time of year changes daily and one hot day may make today's beta irrelevant tomorrow. Be sure to check in at the Paradise Wilderness Information Center to get your climbing permit and the most current route conditions. 

Emmons - Winthrop 7/15/26

The last few weeks have brought some highly variable weather to the mountain. A week of high freezing levels was followed by a long weekend of high winds that kept the success rate of climbing parties low. With the higher freezing levels that are forecast, some timing considerations for your climb are worth noting. Starting on the early side ensures that your party has ample time to attempt a summit and be coming down back to camp before the heat of the day. As things continue to warm, serac fall, crevasse bridges, and travel conditions can quickly turn into difficult hazards to mitigate.

Taking a GPS track of your climb up is recommended for route finding on the way down; boot packs can melt out and not be obvious from above. Additionally, with spring and summer conditions, boot packs from old routes may still be present. Avoid following tracks just because they are there; instead, visually confirm that snow bridges are safe to travel over and place protection as necessary. Remember that just because you crossed a snow bridge on the way up does not mean it will be there on the way down. Be prepared to use your own glacier navigation skills on both the ascent and descent. 

From Schurman, there is a prominent boot-pack onto the Corridor through sizable penitentes. Sometimes it's easier to travel off the beaten path, especially when descending, but be aware of crevasses that may be hard to discern due to the surface conditions. At the top of the Corridor, around ~11.7k, the glacier becomes more jumbled. Take care to carefully evaluate snowbridges and protect them as necessary. This zone has numerous smaller crevasses - many running parallel to the route - as evidenced by the holes where climbers have punched a leg in.

There is a notable crevasse crossing at 12.2k as the route starts to traverse climbers right. Here there is a very thin snowbridge that will likely collapse as the season progresses. Protect this crossing from a significant pendulum and/or zippering fall, or find another route around. Again, on the way up, consider what your team will do if the snowbridge collapses while you are above it. Should the route 'fall out' at any point, climbers may need to climb back to the summit and descent via the DC route, or navigate another way down the Emmons.

7/6/26 Photo of the crevasse crossing at 12.2k. The track can be seen making a zig zag to go over the snow bridge in the center of the photo. 

Alternative routes up/down the Emmons were explored by NPS Rangers on July 11th, with passage made along the southern (climbers left) side high above The Corridor avoiding the 12,200' crevasse crossing mentioned above. This route is not marked, may not have a discernible boot-pack, and travels through complex glaciated terrain with numerous crevasse crossings that require appropriate route-finding and hazard mitigation skills. It does appear, however, that this route may be more 'stable' and remain passable to experienced teams for some time. This alternative route diverges from the existing route at approximately 11,800' (just below a large switchback right) and continues up the left shoulder of the upper Corridor. After several hundred feet of climbing upward (approximately 12,450' elevation), a long traverse right will eventually rejoin the existing route at approximately 13,000' along the Winthrop Shoulder.

Descend the same route you used to ascend. Keep in mind that warming during the day can change the way things look and what is passable on the way down. Plan for this as you cross terrain on your ascent. Stay alert and protect steeper sections and snow bridges. Don’t be afraid to step out of the boot pack for better footing. 

7/6/26 Track of the approximate route (above)
Alternative found on 7/11/26 in blue (below) 

Disappointment Cleaver Route Update 7/3/2026

The Disappointment Cleaver has been holding together, and parties have been making it to the summit in fairly reasonable times.  Two days ago, the guide services did some route work and put in a new route up the shoulder of the Emmons Glacier.  This new variant starts just above the top of the Disappointment Cleaver and instead of going climber's left towards the top of Gibraltar Rock, it spurs off to climber's right and then ascends to the crater rim.  

Like most glaciated climbs - the route can change day to day and even hour to hour. Just because a snow bridge or a ladder was intact and you crossed it on the way up to the summit does not mean that it'll be there when you descend. Consider alternatives as you ascend - especially at critical points like a crevasse bridge.  Often, pioneering a new descent path can take more advanced skills and/or abilities than those required to ascend. 

Expect to do some route finding of your own as the temps warm into the hottest months of the summer.  Snow melts away from the rocky ridges and the glaciers continue to flow down the mountain opening up new crevasses and collapsing others.  Again, there's no one "route" when climbing or skiing on glaciers - consider them blank canvases for you and your climbing team to "paint" your track on.  Stay within your ability levels and enjoy your opportunity for creativity!  

Wishing everyone a safe and wonderful holiday weekend!  See you in the mountains!