Disappointment Cleaver Update 7/26/24

 July 26, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Overview

Winter of 2024 brought slightly warmer than average temperatures, resulting in average seasonable snowfall on the upper and mid mountain. Below ~5000ft, snow totals were below average. Currently the snow line is at about 7000 - 7500 feet. Summer is here on Mount Rainier and freezing levels have been at or above the summit for the last 3 weeks. Crevasses are opening up and the route has seen some significant variations compared to years past. Many teams have been reaching the summit with the current established routes. Some of the hazards associated with higher temperatures include:

               + Rock fall/Icefall

               + Crevasse Bridge Collapse

               +Dehydration and Heat Illness

 

Muir Route

The path to Camp Muir up the Muir Snowfield currently follows the standard summer trail. Please pay special attention to trail markings and stay on the trail as the local alpine meadows are fragile and unique. Above Pebble Creek the route is mostly snow covered to Camp Muir

Disappointment Cleaver

The route to Ingraham Flats from Camp Muir takes the standard route. It is well marked and boot packed. Climbers should be prepared to shorten their rope spacing after getting off the Cowlitz Glacier and before crossing Cathedral Gap. This will reduce risk of crossing ropes with other teams and  knocking loose rocks onto climbers below.

The route above Ingraham Flats currently ascends the Disappointment Cleaver to its top. The path is clear of any major cracks and gaining the Cleaver is straightforward. On the Cleaver, teams should be prepared to shorten rope spacing and get the rope off the ground to minimize rock fall hazard on climbers below. The Cleaver is approximately 25% snow covered, with intermittent patches remaining throughout the ridge. 

From the top of the Cleaver, only one established route currently goes to the summit. This route is marked in the map below. A previous variation, noted as the "red variation" in the 7/20/24 post, has seen critical ladder crossings fall out of condition. While it is possible that this section will get reestablished, it is not currently climbable.

Track from Rangers climbing on 7/20/24

The current route requires one to travel climbers right off the top of the Cleaver along a wanded boot pack under a large serac. This is followed by a few sections of fixed pickets, ladders, and ropes. At ~13,000', the route downshifts in technical difficulty and becomes similar to more typical DC conditions with a well-established, wanded boot pack to the summit. It is possible that recent high winds have knocked over some wands up high. Climbers should have confidence in navigating the upper portion of the route without the common wanded handrail. It is worth noting on this route that there is no getting around accepting the hazards associated with traveling under a serac.

 The top of the Cleaver is a few hundred feet up and climbers right of where this image was taken. From there, climbers are traveling through the terrain below the well-defined serac on the horizon line of this image. Evidence of a serac avalanche that occurred in early June can be seen in this image.

Bottom line, the DC is in a slightly more "technical" state than normal.  Independent climbers should be prepared to utilize their ropes, pickets, prussiks, etc. for belay, ascension, and descension on the more challenging sections. Climbers should also be prepared to coordinate with other teams to manage the potential for bottle necking on route. Please be prepared to assess the quality of all fixed gear, ropes, and ladders. Do not remove any equipment found on route. For a broad overview on the traditional climbing route, please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct

The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00. Check in here before your climb to receive your permit, to check for walk up availability, and pick up "Blue Bags" for human waste. You will also check out at the PWIC at the end of trip.  Lastly, please remember to pay the Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee. 

We look forward to seeing you in the hills!

Disappointment Cleaver Update

July 21, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Overview

Winter of 2024 brought slightly warmer than average temperatures, resulting in average seasonable snowfall on the upper and mid mountain. Below ~5000ft, snow totals were below average. Currently the snow line is at about 7500 feet. Summer is here on Mount Rainier and freezing levels have been at or above the summit for the last 3 weeks. Crevasses are opening up and the route has seen some significant variations compared to years past. Many teams have been reaching the summit with the current established routes. Some of the hazards associated with higher temperatures include:

               + Rock fall/Icefall

               + Crevasse Bridge Collapse

               +Dehydration and Heat Illness

 

Muir Route

The path to Camp Muir up the Muir Snowfield currently follows the standard summer trail. Please pay special attention to trail markings and stay on the trail as the local alpine meadows are fragile and unique. Above Pebble Creek the route is mostly snow covered to Camp Muir

Disappointment Cleaver

The route to Ingraham Flats from Camp Muir takes the standard route. It is well marked and boot packed. Climbers should be prepared to shorten their rope spacing after getting off the Cowlitz Glacier and before crossing Cathedral Gap. This will reduce risk of tangling ropes with other teams and minimize the risk of knocking rocks loose onto teams below.

The route above Ingraham Flats currently ascends the Disappointment Cleaver to ~12000ft. The path is clear of any major cracks and gaining the Cleaver is straightforward. On the Cleaver, teams should be prepared to shorten rope spacing and get the rope off the ground to minimize rock fall hazard on climbers below. The Cleaver is approximately 25% snow covered, with intermittent patches remaining throughout the ridge. 

At ~12000ft, two route variation exist. These route variations both involve ladders and utilization of fixed protection and ropes. These adjuncts are maintained by the guide services. While adjuncts do see consistent maintenance, changing daily conditions regularly affect the quality of anchors. Recreational climbers should be prepared to evaluate the condition of all fixed ladders, ropes, and protection. Each variation presents its own challenges and hazards. The variations are marked in red and blue on the topo below.

Track from Rangers climbing on 7/20/24

The "red variation" involves ladders and fixed ropes that travel through a ~50 meter section of ~55 degree terrain. Climbers should be prepared to manage a "pitch" of technical climbing on both the climb and descent for this variation. This section also represents a potential "bottle neck" where climbing can slow down as multiple parties queue up behind one another. Climbers would be wise to coordinate with other teams prior to climbing to manage too many parties stacking up in this section at once. Otherwise, the climbing below and above the bottle neck is well established and straightforward climbing. 

The "red variation". This travels to the indistinct gulley in the center of the horizon line. The gulley is detailed in the image below.

The crux of the red variation. The ladder marks the start of the fixed lines. The fixed lines travel through the right leaning snow/ice ramp and end at a fixed anchor on the ridge.

The blue variation involves less difficult climbing but has a few sections of ladders and fixed lines to manage. It also travels under a large serac for a period of time. Travel on this variation is quicker and less prone to the bottle neck issues of the red variation. However, one must accept the hazards associated with traveling under a serac. From the top of the Cleaver, one will find wands and an impacted path traveling climbers right toward the serac in the image below.

The "blue variation" as seen from below. The top of the Cleaver is a few hundred feet up and climbers right of where this image was taken. From there, climbers are traveling through the terrain below the well-defined serac on the horizon line of this image. Evidence of a serac avalanche that occurred in early June can be seen in this image.

Each variation presents its own challenges. Both routes converge at ~13000ft. The conditions have not slowed down the guide services and most independent teams are successfully managing the current conditions. Bottom line, the DC is in a slightly more "technical" state than normal.  Independent climbers should be prepared to utilize their ropes, pickets, prussiks, etc. for belay, ascension, and descension on the more challenging sections. Climbers should also be prepared to coordinate with other teams to manage the potential for bottle necking on route. Please leave all fixed gear, ropes, and ladders in place. For specifics on the climbing route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct

The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00. Check in here before your climb to receive your permit, or to check for walk up availability and be sure to check out here at the end of trip. "Blue Bags" used for human waste can be picked up here. Also please remember to pay the Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee.

Emmons Update 7/13/24

July 14th, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

During the month of July, Mt Rainier has been experiencing clear sunny weather with above average temperatures and freezing levels between 14,000-15,500 feet. Current hazards include:

+Thin Snow Bridges and Crevasse Falls

+Knee Strain/Strain and Lower Leg punctures by Crampon Points due to Soft Snow

+Dehydration

The approach to Glacier Basin is currently snow free and the Inter Glacier is still holding winter snow. When dropping from Camp Curtis to get on to the Emmons Glacier, be sure to rope up for glacier travel. Rangers have observed teams traveling this section to Camp Schurman without a rope, particularly when descending from camp. There are numerous large crevasses in this section.

Image of climbers traveling without a rope in use on the Lower Emmons approaching Camp Schurman.

The route has continued to follow the same path as the last week or two. Some things to consider are that with warm temperatures snow bridges have been continuing to thin. The existing "trail" goes over thin portions of numerous snow bridges which were robust a week ago, and are now beginning to sag, which is an early sign of impending collapse. Use discretion when crossing and do not hesitate to go off the boot pack to cross a thicker portion of the snow bridge.

Route as scene from Camp Shurman. Note yellow line indicating the 11,400 foot "plug" detailed bellow.

At least one snow bridge crossing should require additional attention at this time. This is the 11,400 foot "plug". It is a major bridge roughly the width of a dump truck and if it were to fail with a climber on it there is possibility for a major swing into the adjacent wall. Additionally, this crossing is long enough that more than one climber at a time could end up on it, both increasing the likelihood of collapse, and making a team arrest more difficult. Consider adding security when crossing this, particularly on the descent. 

Side profile of the snow bridge at 11,400 feet. This image demonstrates the length; the width is about as wide as a dump truck. Use additional caution when crossing this. Or considering finding an alternative work around.

Please be sure to climb with "blue bags" on route. These can be disposed of at Camp Schurman at the designated barrel by the doors to the entrance of the restrooms. These can be picked up at the White River Wilderness Information Center (open every day from 7:30 am to 5:00 pm), the same location as where climbers pick up their climbing permits. Also, when there be sure to observe the printed-out photo of where tent platforms are allowed next to camp Schurman. For more information about climbing the Emmons route consult the Emmons-Winthrop Route Brief. Remember to pay for you annual climber's recovery free, found here.

Trash, Waste, and Leave No Trace! Cleaning Up Muir and a DC Update!

With the increased numbers of visitors utilizing Camp Muir as summer takes off, rangers have been finding more and more trash around Camp Muir that isn't being managed properly. No trash removal is provided by the park service at any of the high camps. All trash must be hiked out. Unfortunately, people are increasingly leaving trash hidden or stuffed in corners around camp, in the bathrooms, hidden in the snow, and piled in the public shelter. This is starting to have a significant impact on camps, as it is attracting mice. The public shelter is the publics' shelter. Not the rangers' or guide services.' This means it is a shared resource. A resource every user is responsible for. People all too often convince themselves that leaving their half-eaten Mountain House or fuel canister is "helpful." But soon, every other climber does the same, and a mound of trash is left behind. Please be mindful of this and hike out all of your trash. Help manage the shelter by hiking out any other trash you may find. Leave the shelter like you would want to find it when you first arrive. 

When it comes to human waste, more is also emerging on route and around camps. Please utilize the bathrooms around camp and the blue waste bags for disposal on route. Remember to carry them with you back to camp. The blue bags are provided by the ranger stations if you forgot to bring any. Don't leave them on route with the expectation they will be there on the descent. They will blow away and can become an unpleasant object to have fall down the mountain. The park service does provide disposal at the high camps for the blue bags. There will be marked barrels near the bathrooms. If you are unsure of where to dispose of them, please ask! Don't stuff them into the toilet systems, which may break the system, or hide them around camp. Several unsavory discoveries have been made.

DC Route Update:

The heatwave over the past week brought freezing levels up to 17,000' at times, with little to no radiative cooling and strong winds. Most climbers are shifting start times earlier in order to climb through the night so they are done by the time the sun and heat hits the route. This helps minimize exposure to rockfall and crevasse crossing hazards. The loss of snowpack means the Cleaver is now largely rock until the upper portion. Travel carefully and short rope through this section to help minimize knocking down loose rock. 

As of Sunday the 7th, the route from the top of the Cleaver continues up a steep traverse where there are handlines and fixed pickets for running protection. Remember that these pickets need to be checked before use as the warm temps have melted them out. The route then arrives at a series of switchbacks before the route continues up two vertical ladders to make it up a large step around 13,200'. 

We have received multiple reports since yesterday (7/10) that a large crevasse collapsed around 12,800' where the switchbacks started. This occurred sometime in the afternoon and a party descending late in the day was trapped above for a short time before being forced to rappel into the crevasse and climb out the bottom. This serves as a reminder that parties need to be prepared to route-find, safely utilize technical climbing skills, and potentially climb back up and then descend alternative routes. Multiple guide parties are currently working to establish a reroute around this new feature as it has stopped multiple parties who have been unable to find a route around. Please be respectful of these parties as they work.  

Additional Notes:

Please remember that the DC route is popular, but it is still a technical, high-altitude mountaineering route that requires skilled use of alpine climbing and glacier travel techniques and equipment. Many parties are climbing with the expectation of somebody being nearby to quickly provide assistance and are projecting their risk onto others without consideration. If you can't fully manage your own risk, consider shifting to another objective on Rainier or in the Cascades to build those skills. With the current reroute underway, these skills are even more important, as you may have to do your own route-finding. The ability of your party to be self-sufficient is imperative for a safe and successful mission.

Emmons-Winthrop Update 7/4/24

The Emmons-Winthrop route currently follows the standard path up out of Camp Schurman.  Small cracks have opened up low on the route and the first major crevasse crossing is around 11,400 ft. There's two options to cross this crevasse - one option is going straight up over a narrow snowbridge or working climber's left and end-running the crack. As of the day this blog is written, the snow bridge here remains and has been the option used the most. After the anticipated heat-wave however, this option might fall through, forcing climbers to go left.  Many are opting to place fall-protection to navigate this section, especially on the descent.

Route as seen from Camp Schurman

The route then continues with several long, right-hand traverses to avoid large crevasses. The last long right-hand traverse is at 13,400 ft. to end run the bergschrund and get to Liberty Saddle. It is within this zone the route travels directly under large seracs immediately above. Move efficiently and do not take breaks under this, or any, overhead hazard. Surface conditions have been decent overall but expect a wide variety of soft, firm, wind-board, and so forth throughout the entirety of the route.

Overhead serac hazard around 13k

Worth noting that the heat wave forecasted is expected to put freezing levels at 16000ft +. Many days of this heat has historically taken a large toll on the entirety of the mountain. Seracs, snowbridges, rocks, crevasse openings, wet-loose avalanches, and more can all be potential hazards worth heavily reiterating as the mountain melts during this heat wave.

Skiers: See our recent post about Ski-Mo or Ski-No

Skier numbers on the upper mountain have been dwindling drastically as the upper slopes do not offer very good snow conditions for skiing. There are large open crevasses that would be extremely dangerous in the event of a fall on skis in the wrong spot. The few parties that have brought skis have been opting to leave them at the top of the Corridor, at around 11,400 feet, and continue to the summit on foot.

Additional Information  

It is strongly recommended that parties rope up if ascending or descending from Camp Schurman via the lower Emmons. There is a large crevasse complex just below camp that you have to cross. It is opening quickly, and bridges are getting thinner every day. 

It is worth reiterating from the last post to never abandon your climbing partners on the upper mountain. NEVER split up. If you are climbing, stay together, roped up. If you are skiing, stay close enough to see each other and spot each other. 

Proper food and blue bag storage is still very important. Rangers have found multiple wag/blue bags at the Emmons Flats Camp that were left out and compromised by the ravens. They will get into waste and food if not stored properly. Please practice Leave No Trace!

Lastly, if you haven't seen a new blog post for a while, that likely means not much has changed on the route! See you on the mountain!

DC Route Update 7/4/24

July 4th, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Overview

Winter of 2024 brought slightly warmer than average temperatures, resulting in average seasonable snowfall on the upper and mid mountain, with the lower mountain below average. Currently the snow line is at about 5,500 feet. Summer is here on Mount Rainier and temps have been back to average, with above average temperature forecasted for the week ahead. Crevasses are beginning to open up, but the climbing route is well established. Many teams have been reaching the summit by this point. Some of the hazards associated with higher temperatures include:

               + Rock fall/Icefall

               + Crevasse Bridge Collapse

               +Dehydration

 

Muir Route

The path to Camp Muir up the Muir Snowfield currently follows the summer trail which is mostly snow free. Please pay special attention to trail markings and keep to the trail as we would like hikers and climbers to avoid trampling sensitive vegetation. Above Pebble Creek the route is snow covered.

Above Camp Muir the route has seen significant traffic, and the path is well marked and packed in. Climbers should be prepared to shorten their rope spacing after getting off the Cowlitz Glacier and before crossing Cathedral Gap, in order to reduce risk of tangling ropes with other teams and to minimize the risk of knocking rocks loose onto teams below.

                                        

View of Ingraham Flats after rounding the corner of Cathedral Gap. Disappointment Cleaver is visible about the tents

The route above Ingraham Flats currently ascends the Disappointment Cleaver. The path is clear of any major cracks and gaining the Cleaver is straightforward. Here too, teams should be ready to shorten rope spacing. The Cleaver is approximately 50% covered in snow, and it is expected to melt out after this weekend's heatwave. Pay special attention for red flagged wands which mark the way here, as there are many old trails, some which may lead to dead ends.

The route above the Cleaver steepens as it ascends and switchbacks and has a handful of "fixed" snow pickets with webbing runners and carabiners attached. Please leave this gear for other teams to use. This gear is intended for clipping into and use as a running belay, meaning that rope team members continue to move in unison. Beyond the steep switchbacks with running protection, teams will encounter two ladders at 13,200 feet. Both options are viable, there are two ladders to reduce bottlenecking at this point. Note that there are fixed snow pickets in place that attach to the ladders, and some that are free. These free pickets both below and above the ladders are intended for rope teams to clip into and use as running protection. As always, be sure to evaluate any fixed gear as they are checked by guides when passing, but are subject to melting out. For specifics on the climbing route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct

Image of the ladders crossing at 13,200 feet. Note the open pickets at the base of the ladders, these are intended to be used as running protection

This portion of the route from 12,500-13,300 feet where the fixed adjuncts are in place is where bottlenecking is most likely to occur. If teams are backed up here it is advised to wait down below, or above in order to reduce teams lining up in this tight space and exposing climbers to ice fall and crevasse fall hazard. Beyond this portion the route is mostly direct to the crater rim. When descending from the summit consider spacing out from other teams to reduce the potential for backups here.

View as seen from the top of Disappointment Clever. Note the steep switchback in the center of the photo above the team of climbers. Also, the ladders are faintly visible to center right at the upper most crack in the photo. This is where bottlenecking has been occurring, and the exposure to risks is best mitigated by spacing out rope teams to minimize time in this zone.

As always, don't just follow the boot pack blindly toward the summit.  Look both climber's left and right for other options to ascend the mountain - even if the boot pack doesn't lead there.  There are always multiple ways to climb Mount Rainier - just be sure to stay within your team's ability level and place fall-protection if things get steep!  

The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00. Check in here before your climb to receive your permit, or to check for walk up availability and be sure to check out here at the end of trip. "Blue Bags" used for human waste can be picked up here. Also please remember to pay the Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee.