Showing posts with label Emmons-Winthrop. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Emmons-Winthrop. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 08, 2026

Emmons - Winthrop 7/15/26

The last few weeks have brought some highly variable weather to the mountain. A week of high freezing levels was followed by a long weekend of high winds that kept the success rate of climbing parties low. With the higher freezing levels that are forecast, some timing considerations for your climb are worth noting. Starting on the early side ensures that your party has ample time to attempt a summit and be coming down back to camp before the heat of the day. As things continue to warm, serac fall, crevasse bridges, and travel conditions can quickly turn into difficult hazards to mitigate.


Taking a GPS track of your climb up is recommended for route finding on the way down; boot packs can melt out and not be obvious from above. Additionally, with spring and summer conditions, boot packs from old routes may still be present. Avoid following tracks just because they are there; instead, visually confirm that snow bridges are safe to travel over and place protection as necessary. Remember that just because you crossed a snow bridge on the way up does not mean it will be there on the way down. Be prepared to use your own glacier navigation skills on both the ascent and descent. 


From Schurman, there is a prominent boot-pack onto the Corridor through sizable penitentes. Sometimes it's easier to travel off the beaten path, especially when descending, but be aware of crevasses that may be hard to discern due to the surface conditions. At the top of the Corridor, around ~11.7k, the glacier becomes more jumbled. Take care to carefully evaluate snowbridges and protect them as necessary. This zone has numerous smaller crevasses - many running parallel to the route - as evidenced by the holes where climbers have punched a leg in.


There is a notable crevasse crossing at 12.2k as the route starts to traverse climbers right. Here there is a very thin snowbridge that will likely collapse as the season progresses. Protect this crossing from a significant pendulum and/or zippering fall, or find another route around. Again, on the way up, consider what your team will do if the snowbridge collapses while you are above it. Should the route 'fall out' at any point, climbers may need to climb back to the summit and descent via the DC route, or navigate another way down the Emmons.


7/6/26 Photo of the crevasse crossing at 12.2k. The track can be seen making a zig zag to go over the snow bridge in the center of the photo. 



Alternative routes up/down the Emmons were explored by NPS Rangers on July 11th, with passage made along the southern (climbers left) side high above The Corridor avoiding the 12,200' crevasse crossing mentioned above. This route is not marked, may not have a discernible boot-pack, and travels through complex glaciated terrain with numerous crevasse crossings that require appropriate route-finding and hazard mitigation skills. It does appear, however, that this route may be more 'stable' and remain passable to experienced teams for some time. This alternative route diverges from the existing route at approximately 11,800' (just below a large switchback right) and continues up the left shoulder of the upper Corridor. After several hundred feet of climbing upward (approximately 12,450' elevation), a long traverse right will eventually rejoin the existing route at approximately 13,000' along the Winthrop Shoulder.


Descend the same route you used to ascend. Keep in mind that warming during the day can change the way things look and what is passable on the way down. Plan for this as you cross terrain on your ascent. Stay alert and protect steeper sections and snow bridges. Don’t be afraid to step out of the boot pack for better footing. 




7/6/26 Track of the approximate route (above)
Alternative found on 7/11/26 in blue (below) 


Wednesday, June 24, 2026

Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 6/24/26



Getting to camp:

The trail to Glacier Basin is free of snow and great for running shoes. Make noise in the region of the turn off to the Emmons Moraine trail as a bear with a cub has been spotted in the area. If you happen to see the bear, make noise and make yourself appear bigger.

From Glacier Basin the route continues up the moraine trail to the tea gardens. There are many small trails through this area; whichever you choose, be mindful to stay on an existing path and not trample the meadows. Keep your eye out in this area, there have been many wildlife sightings recently.

Once the moraine trail meets the tea gardens, you’ll begin to move through patchy snow. Be careful through here and into the lower part of the inter glacier; as the snow melts the creeks hollow the snow out from below creating dangerous creek holes that you can punch into. You may hear the rumbling of water beneath you in the snow, see small holes that open down to a creek, or see creeks running towards you from the ridge line above. These are all signs that you are in a very thin region. Stay spread out to avoid overloading a single area and avoid the creeks if possible.


6/23/26 Examples of thin snow bridges over creeks





From there, you’ll follow the trail directly up the Inter Glacier. Be mindful of rockfall hazard and pay attention to where it is common by looking for rocks on the snow surface. Avoid stopping in these zones.

Keep an eye out for where the boot pack veers left to gain the ridge at Camp Curtis, you will want to follow this route to get to the Emmons Glacier rather than following skier’s tracks to the top of Steamboat Prow. Here (46.87290, -121.72624) are the coordinates of Camp Curtis, which will mark the start of your descent onto the Emmons.

Currently the descent onto the Emmons is all snow. Notice the rocks on the snow surface at the transition onto the Emmons Glacier. Many parties are transitioning to glacier travel mode in this rock fall zone which is not recommended. Look for a rock fall free zone to transition in. From here, the route to Camp Schurman is quite direct, though you will walk near opening crevasses: give these a wide berth as the weather warms.


6/20/26 - Textured snow on the corridor looking down towards Emmon's Flats (center left tents), Camp Schurman (far left tents), and the descent from Camp Curtis (center snow role on ridge) to the Emmons Glacier.


On your hike, running water is available along the trail to glacier basin, from the creeks along the moraine trail, from the creeks in the tea gardens area, and can be found on most of the rock outcrops on the Inter Glacier. There is no running water at Camp Curtis or at Camp Schurman. As always, treating your water is recommended before drinking it.


Camp Schurman:

Camp Schurman currently has many tent platforms dug out and space for more. Please respect the posted “Please Don’t Camp Here” sign on the saddle and camp at least 75 feet from the sign, this is the NPS temporary helipad until the traditional one melts out from the snow. Having the helipad clear of tents facilitates emergency operations if necessary. Both bathrooms are open at Schurman along with a blue bag barrel just outside the restroom.


Emmons flats:

There are existing tent platforms at camp and room for more. Keep in mind that this camp is on a glacier and you should take appropriate measures to ensure you are in a crevasse free zone before un-roping.


Upper mountain:

Taking a GPS track of your climb up is recommended for route finding on the way down; boot packs can melt out and not be obvious from above. Additionally, with spring and summer conditions, boot packs from old routes may still be present. Avoid following tracks just because they are there; instead, visually confirm that snow bridges are safe to travel over and place protection as necessary.

From Schurman, the route continues up the small hill to Emmons flats. Here the route angles up and climber’s left to the Corridor. Be aware that though this area looks smooth, large crevasses open between Emmon’s Flats and the corridor each summer.

Once on the Corridor, continue directly up. Make note of where the route veers climber’s right around 11.8k to avoid a crevasse. On the way down, many parties have been missing this switch back and have needed to backtrack in order to regain the route. See (the photo) for more information.



6/18/26 Approximate route location during week of 6/21/26. The orange circle marks the 11.8k location of confusion for descending parties.


At the top of the Corridor, around 12k, the route moves over a section of exposed ice. Consider placing protection in this area, to avoid a slip turning into a fall. Also in this area, you will move over a variety of snow bridges. Take care to inspect them before crossing and place protection for your party should they fail.


6/20/26 Looking down the crevasse crossings at ~12k at the top of the Corridor


There is a notable crevasse crossing at 12,200 ft as the route starts to traverse climbers right. Here, you will walk along the downhill edge of the crevasse. Though the boot pack may continue straight, look to your left immediately after encountering the crevasse for a better snow bridge to cross. Understand that if a snow bridge looks like a true “bridge” - a thin piece of snow spanning air - it is weak and very dangerous to cross. Instead look for a section of snow that completely fills in the crevasse and then protect it as necessary.



6/20/26 An example of a thin, dangerous snow bridge. The tracks seen are from an old route that should no longer be followed.



From here the route continues to traverse climbers right to the Winthrop shoulder. You will cross another crevasse around 12.6k, while gaining the shoulder, that is worth giving a thorough check and potentially protecting.

Continuing up the Winthrop Shoulder, the route is quite direct. You will encounter yet another notable crevasse at 13,000 ft. Be very skeptical of what route you choose to cross this crevasse, the old boot pack (which may not look old) leads over a very thin snow bridge. Instead, explore climbers left for a sturdier place to cross. Again, place protection to avoid a serious fall.



6/20/26 Parties descending near the 13k crevasse of note.


Above this, the route continues directly towards the summit.


Descent:

Descend the same route you used to ascend. Keep in mind that warming during the day can change the way things look and what is passable on the way down. Plan for this as you cross terrain on your ascent. Stay alert and protect steeper sections and snow bridges. Don’t be afraid to step out of the boot pack for better footing.



6/20/26 An approximate route location


Getting Here:

Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park.


Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River Wilderness Information Center.

Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700.

Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit.

Wednesday, June 17, 2026

Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 6/13/2026

Climbers continue to explore the northeast side of Mount Rainier, frequently accessing the Inter Glacier, Camp Schurman, and the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers. This side of the mountain is an unmaintained wilderness experience that requires planning, preparation, and skills to have a successful trip.

The Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers

The approach to Glacier Basin Campground is snow-free with plenty of places to access running water. Consistent snow begins around 6200' on the Inter Glacier, with increasingly visible moats and few crevasses. It is recommended that climbers rope up once on the Emmons Glacier to access Camp Schurman, as many crevasses exist and are thinly covered by the snow from the past week.

Looking down the Inter Glacier

Camp Schurman and Steamboat Prow

Camp Schurman has fully operational facilities--two toilets, a blue bag barrel, and an emergency radio located on the front of the NPS hut. The helipad is currently covered in snow but can be seen in the photo below marked by a windsock. Please do your best to avoid camping on the helipad (the windsock has been removed). If permitted to camp at the Emmons Flats, roping up and traveling as a team to access that area is strongly recommended because it is necessary to cross several large, but currently bridged, crevasses.

Camp Schurman Camping

The Emmons-Wintrhop route continues to be a relatively direct climb, with many parties successfully traversing from the Emmons to the Winthrop Glacier above the Corridor and ascending and descending the upper bergschrund. 

With freezing levels reaching 16,500 feet over the past few days, it is important to have the skills to route-find in complex glaciated terrain if snow bridges over crevasses fall out on the ascent or descent. Place waypoints with mapping tools, consider placing pickets and belaying crossings, be well-rehearsed in crevasse rescue with the gear you are carrying, and understand that the summit is only the halfway point in your journey. The national park is experiencing peak busy season, which means that climbers need to be self-sufficient and able to self-rescue if necessary. 

Skiers should be prepared to transition between skiing and roped climbing safely and also perform a rescue on an unroped partner in the event of a crevasse fall. 

With warming temperatures and full sun, expect the route to change on a daily basis and be ready to adapt your plan based on conditions.

Getting Here:

Both the white river entrance and Nisqually Entrance stations will be busy on the weekends. Plan your entrance to the park to avoid peak times or budget extra time to get into the park. Highway 410 and Highway 123 are open, as are the White River Entrance and Stevens Canyon entrance stations. The White River Campground is open for the season as well.  


Registration:

All climbers must register for their climb in In-Person either the day of your climb, or up to 24 hours in advance. Self-registration is no longer accepted. Register at either the Paradise Wilderness Information Center or the White River WIlderness Information Center. Both of these stations are open 7 days a week from 0730 - 1700


Visit the Park’s Climbing Page for detailed information on paying the climbing fee, registering for your climb, and obtaining the required wilderness permit. 


Wednesday, June 03, 2026

Emmons-Winthrop 5/30/26

The Emmons-Winthrop route is in good shape and has been providing climbers with a generally straightforward and direct line to the summit. As always, this is an unmaintained wilderness glacier route and conditions can change quickly with warm weather, wind, clouds, and daily melt-freeze cycles among other factors. Teams should continue to make their own terrain assessments, especially around crevasse crossings and snow bridges.

A route to the Summit on 5/30

The trail to Glacier Basin is nearly completely clear of snow. The Inter Glacier still has decent coverage with fairly planar surface conditions on our spring snowpack. Moats are beginning to become more pronounced, though no open crevasses have been observed on the Inter Glacier at this time. 

After crossing the Inter Fork near Glacier Basin

Looking up at the Inter Glacier

At Camp Schurman, climbing rangers and volunteers have been busy digging out the ranger station and bathrooms. Both bathrooms are now open and operational. However, there is not currently a Blue Bag barrel at Camp Schurman. Parties should plan to pack out all blue bags in addition to their trash, and waste. Pack it in - Pack it out!

Approx Route on 5/30

Above Camp Schurman, the route is generally direct. Surface conditions have been firm with a diurnal and variable melt freeze crusts below 12,000ft and wind-packed cold snow higher on the route. Warm weather over the past several weeks has affected the snow below 12k.

Between 11,900 feet and 13,100 feet, there are five to six notable crevasses beginning to open. Some parties have chosen to place pickets to protect their rope team through these crossings. Teams should take time to evaluate each crossing, consider the consequences of a snow bridge failure, and use appropriate rope travel and protection techniques for the conditions they encounter.

~11,900' (Taken 5/30)

~12,150' (Taken 5/30)


~12,400' (Taken 5/30)

~13,100' (Taken 5/30)

Above 13,000 feet, the route remains direct toward the summit. The bergschrund is currently well bridged, allowing for a more direct line than is often possible later in the season.

There have also been many successful ski descents of the Emmons and Winthrop Shoulder routes recently. That said, firm conditions and variable melt-freeze surfaces have created challenging conditions for skiers. There have already been incidents this season of skiers falling large distances after losing control. Skiing Rainier is a serious undertaking that requires more than expert skiing ability. A high degree of skill and experience in traditional mountaineering, glacier navigation, and crevasse rescue is essential. Parties are advised to not blindly follow old ski tracks, as conditions may have changed or other parties may not have taken a safe route. Falls in this terrain can be highly consequential or fatal.

Skiers should be prepared to take skis off and rope up when conditions or terrain require it. Teams should carry the equipment and have the practiced skills needed to deal with an un-roped crevasse fall, protect exposed crossings, and transition safely between skiing and climbing.

Warm weather and strong sun will continue to change the route. Climbers and skiers should expect snow bridges, moats, and surface conditions to evolve quickly through the day and from one day to the next. Start early, manage overhead and crevasse hazards carefully, and be prepared to adjust your plan if conditions have changed.


Thursday, May 21, 2026

Aerial Route Photos from Thursday, May 21st

Upper Ingraham Glacier

Fuhrer Finger

Upper Kautz Glacier

Success Couloir 

Tahoma Glacier

Mowich Face

Upper Ptarmigan Ridge

Upper Liberty Ridge 


Wednesday, May 20, 2026

Memorial Day Weekend Conditions

 

View of the Emmons & Winthrop Glaciers from the top of Steamboat Prow

The roads on the east side of the park are scheduled to open this Friday for the summer - Chinook Pass, Cayuse Pass and the road up to the White River Campground will all be open to the public.  This will allow easier access for climbers and skiers to the Inter Glacier and the east side routes like the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Route and Liberty Ridge.  

White River Ranger Station and the Paradise Wilderness Information Center will open daily for the season starting this Friday as well.  Climbers and skiers must register in-person at a ranger station for any climb or ski on a glacier and/or above 10,000 feet.  Please see the "Permits and Fees" tab for more info.

There's a couple of things to remind potential climbers and skiers of as the holiday weekend approaches:

  • Winter-like weather this last week drifted in a significant amount of new snow on leeward slopes.  Recently, both climbers & skiers have been turning around near 12k due to shooting cracks and dangerous looking wind slabs.  While avalanche conditions can change day to day (and even hour to hour) make sure your team can assess these hazards for themselves (there's no public avalanche forecast this time of year on Mount Rainier).  Do not venture up into avalanche terrain if you're not confident that it's safe to do so - especially with terrain traps like crevasses below you!
  • There's limited resources available at Camp Schurman due to record level snow deposition on the ridge near the ranger hut.  The bathrooms, blue bag barrels, rescue litters and propane tanks are still buried under meters of snow.  All climbers and skiers will need to carry all their human waste in blue bags all the way out to the trailhead where there's a barrel near the bathroom in the White River Camp Ground Climbers Parking Area that's labeled for Blue Bags.  Consider bringing extra blue bags since there's no toilet available at Camp Schurman.  
  • The weather forecast looks to be deteriorating into the weekend.  Both Friday & Saturday look decent and Sunday & Monday look to be cloudy with high chance of precipitation.  Forecasts can be wrong, but be cautious with deteriorating conditions like this - if something goes wrong (which can happen to anyone) and a rescue is required it can be prolonged or not even possible in a storm.

While there's so much joy and wonder that can be found up high on the slopes of Mount Rainier - it can also be unforgiving.  Please make sure to build in an extra margin for safety in any activity you plan on the mountain!  While the excitement of this "opening weekend" of the climbing/skiing season can be contagious - we hope that all visitors stay safe and continue to visit the mountain many more times in the future!  

Friday, May 15, 2026

Conditions and Permit Update: Camp Schurman, Emmons-Winthrop, and Liberty Ridge

Looking directly up at the Emmons Glacier.

Camp Schurman

SR 410/Chinook Pass is still closed for the season, limiting access to the east side of the national park. The target opening date is May 22nd. Biking and walking is allowed on the park road, but be vigilant for park vehicles traveling on the roadway.

Permits are self-registration only until May 22nd. After May 22nd, the White River Wilderness Information Center will be open 7:30am to 5:00pm. Self-registration is located in front of the White River Wilderness Information Center and walk-up registration is located inside.


Camp Schurman facilities, including bathrooms, are currently buried in snow and inaccessible. Plan to be self-sufficient on a trip up to and above Camp Schurman (including bringing blue bags and packing them out).


Buried Camp Schurman.

The view of the Emmons-Winthrop zone from Little Tahoma.


Liberty Ridge, early May 2026.

Monday, August 11, 2025

Camp Schurman -Emmons Winthrop Route Season Winding Down

While there are still a couple weeks of August left on the calendar, the summer climbing season on the camp Schurman side of the mountain seems to be winding down. The guide services wrapped up their last Emmons trip on August 7th and there have been few to no independent climbers in camp the last two weeks. The climbing ranger crew is beginning to winterize camp and focusing more on the Camp Muir-DC corridor as we head towards fall. Don't let this deter you from coming up to enjoy the Emmons side of the mountain, but climbers and/or day hikers to Camp Schurman should be prepared for a different experience this time of year.

The Emmons-Winthrop Glaciers from Steamboat Prow on 08/09/25


-The Inter Glacier has several long sections of exposed glacial ice and opening crevasses making travel much more technical. Be cautious with moats getting on/off the Inter and around rock outcroppings, running water and higher flow in creeks on warm days, and that a slip on the ice could lead to a very long fall. 

Looking down the Inter Glacier from below Camp Curtis. Note the several sections of exposed glacier ice


-Once camp Schurman is winterized, there will be no bathrooms open. We will leave a blue bag barrel out for the winter for 'deposits'. There is still potential for the heli-pad to be used so please do not camp on the pad. Crevasses are opening up close to camp so probe your tent site for cracks before setting up, and be diligent to rope up for glacier travel before moving out of camp; there are crevasses within 30' of some old tent pads.

-A permit is still required to camp in the wilderness, as well as the paying the Climbing Cost Recovery fee if you are climbing. The White River Wilderness Information Center near the White River Entrance will be open through early October so make sure to stop and in and say hi. 

-Climbers on the Emmons side should prepare for a remote, wilderness glacier climb, and transitioning fall weather/surface conditions on the upper mountain. Any remaining boot packs may be unreliable routes, and climbers should plan to route find their own way. Come prepared with the appropriate equipment and skill sets to manage long sections of exposed glacial ice, wide and marginal crevasse crossings, and potential for a circuitous route around unpassable crevasses. Additionally, do not expect to see anyone else on the route or at camp; you will be on your own and a rescue could take several days for anyone to reach you. 

The lower Emmons glacier in lean, late summer form

Thanks for a great summer at Schurman, enjoy the fall and winter. We look forward to seeing you all next summer!


Sunday, July 27, 2025

Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 7/27/25

The final weekend of July was perplexing at Camp Schurman. Temperatures were pleasant, winds were moderate, and the route to the summit was quite good; yet there were only a handful of climbers in camp each day. 

Conditions continue to progress towards late season norms, but all things considered, the Emmons-Winthrop route climbs well for this time of year.

Emmons-Winthrop route approximation (blue line) on 7/26/25


Route Description: 


Inter Glacier

After leaving Glacier Basin, and following the trail up the Inter moraine, stay climber's right and avoid the lowest snow patches. The Inter Fork of the White River is flowing under these lingering snowfields and the risk of punching through the snow and getting swept away by the creek are not worth taking. Follow intermittent climber's trails over rocky slopes until you arrive at the toe of the Inter Glacier.

Recommended travel line shown climber's right of the Inter Fork of the White River . Avoid the snow slopes with running water underneath (denoted by the X) photo: 7/27/25


Travel up the Inter Glacier remains straightforward and efficient. Clean running water is plentiful and easy to find on the numerous exposed rock islands along the way. There are no open crevasses or exposed ice along the climber's trail up the Inter Glacier. The snow is firm, and some folks may prefer crampons for the ascent.

Inter Glacier travel is quite good for late July - 7/27/25


Camp Curtis to Camp Schurman

This section still requires some downclimbing over loose and somewhat steep terrain with poor footing in order to access the Emmons Glacier. A great description and good photos of this section can be found in the previous Emmons blog post. Once the downclimb is complete, rope up, and follow the obvious climbers trail to Camp Schurman.

Camp Schurman to Summit

From camp, follow the obvious boot tracks up towards the Emmons Flats. Climbers will encounter some sections of exposed glacier ice shortly after leaving camp. The boot pack fades away here, but the navigation is mostly straightforward with some traversing to end-run crevasses. 

The established boot pack accesses the corridor higher than normal (an artifact from old ski tracks from early season). Rangers found a much better way to access the corridor on a solid snow bridge about 200' below the old trail. 

The corridor is sun-cupped and travel requires some French-technique with crampons to save energy. Near the top of the corridor, there are some crevasses popping out that will necessitate some back-and-forth traversing. When leaving the corridor, climbers will find some exposed glacier ice at the bridge that leads to the alpine meadow. This section requires some confident footwork with crampons.

Crevasses crossing near 13,300 ft (7/26/25)


Above the corridor, the route still has good snow coverage. The penitentes cause the trail to be troughed in some sections, but good travel is found off trail in places. The route zig-zags around some large crevasses here. Most notably at 11,900 ft, 12,200 ft, and 12,300 ft. The snow bridge at 12,300 feet is not difficult to ascend or descend but warrants a belay to cross. Rangers found that the ability to quickly lengthen the rope interval between the lead climber and followers greatly aided belaying across this crevasse with a picket anchor; both for the ascent and descent.

A Ranger descends on belay across the snow bridge at 12,300 ft (7/26/25)


The snow bridge over the 12,300 ft crevasse from above (7/26/25)


At 13,200 ft, the route begins traversing towards Liberty Saddle. From Liberty Saddle at 13,600 ft, parties can choose to continue up mostly on snow to the crater rim, or travel up gravelly slopes from 13,900 to the summit.

The traverse to Liberty Saddle (7/26/25)


Equipment

Because some sections of the route involve exposed glacial ice (albeit low angle) carrying a few ice screws is recommended to facilitate anchor building in these areas. The rest of the route is still snow, and picket anchors work very well. Parties should climb with a minimum of 4 pickets per group. Groups of 3 or more should carry at least 5 pickets. Every member of a climbing party should have the ability to build a snow anchor, and plunging an ice axe into the snow is not a viable plan. Ice axes with hammers are a good choice for the route in its current condition.

The Emmons-Winthrop route taken by Rangers on 7/26/25


Permits and Planning

More information on climbing on Mt. Rainier can be found on the Mt. Rainier National Park Climbing Page. Here, you will find information about how to pay the Annual Climbing Fee, obtain a Climbing Permit, and make Reservations.

On behalf of the NPS climbing staff: happy climbing, and we hope to see you at high camp!

Wednesday, July 23, 2025

Emmons Winthrop Route Update 7/20/25

Conditions on the Emmons Winthrop route remain favorable for climbing as summer stretches on. Rangers at Camp Schurman experienced a variety of mountain weather over the last several days. High freezing temperatures gave way to clouds, wind and even scattered upper mountain snow showers. To close out the weekend the Park saw thunderstorms, hale and heavy rainfall on 7/19.


7/19/25 - Sunset on Little Tahoma

Inter Glacier 

The Inter Glacier continues to lose snow each day, no ice exposed as of 7/21. Hiking up climbers will find the transition to snow at around 7,000' elevation. Please follow the climbers trail to access the snow to avoid impacting the alpine vegetation. No cracks or holes in the Inter were noted. 

7/21/25 - A party begins ascending the Inter Glacier 

Emmons entrance from Camp Curtis

As the glacier recedes, the climb down from Camp Curtis to access the Emmons Glacier has gotten steeper with loose rock exposed. Use caution when making the transition on the descent and ascent of this feature. Use the appropriate travel techniques in this piece of terrain. Rangers watched multiple parties move through the steep rock step, maintaining traditional glacier travel techniques - a fall in this configuration could have serious consequences for the entire team. Teams should be prepared to slow down through here, coordinate with other groups moving through this bottleneck, and watch for rockfall. Some teams have opted to use hip belays in the steeper sections of the trail here, however there are no good rock anchors to rely on. As a reminder, after crossing the moraine the final approach to Camp Schurman is on the Emmons Glacier and climbers are encouraged to rope up for glacier travel. The boot pack crosses over several crevasses between the moraine and camp. 


7/19/25 - A party of 4 ascending up from the Emmons towards Camp Curtis

7/19/25 - The entrance to the Emmons from Camp Curtis

Emmons Winthrop Route

As of 7/20 the route follows generally the same path as it has for the last couple weeks. The route has seen the most change between 11,400' and 13,000' as crevasses continue to open and re-routing of the boot pack occurs. This has led to several old, established boot packs existing in this section that led to dead-ends or less ideal crevasse-bridge crossings. Pay close attention through this zone and record a GPS track on your way up that you can follow back down to avoid wrong turns. Rangers noted with some route finding they were able to increase security over most crevasse crossings. Expect to encounter sections of exposed ice during your climb. Good crampon technique and potentially the placement of ice screws will alleviate exposure in these zones. 


7/20/25 - Broken Terrain on the Corridor at 10900'

7/20/25 - At the top of the Corridor, 11400' - the current boot pack travels 
through this feature.  


7/20/25 - 12250' on the Emmons route



7/20/25 - 13600' the current boot pack traverses far climbers right to the Liberty Saddle with a few large crevasses to cross as you gain the saddle. 


7/20/25 - Sunset from Camp Schurman