Climbing on Mount Rainier to Reopen June 19, 2020

The closure to visitor use above 10,500 feet will be lifted on June 19, 2020.  Currently, skiers and hikers are invited to ski, hike, and camp to and from Camps Muir and Schurman (and elsewhere below 10,500).  Remember, travel above high camps and/or glaciated travel still requires a climbing permit and payment of a climbing cost recovery fee.  Some temporary restrictions will still remain in place after June 19th.  Here is a substantive list of temporary use restrictions:

• Climbing party size limited to 6 climbers
• Camp Muir: 36 overnight non-guided users
• Ingraham Flats: 12 overnight non-guided users
• Muir Snowfield: 0 overnight users
• Camp Schurman: 12 overnight non-guided users
• Emmons Flats: 12 overnight non-guided users
• All other wilderness zone camping quotas are normal with a max party size of 6
• The Public Shelter at Camp Muir is CLOSED for visitor use and for emergency-use only

* PLEASE READ THE NOTE BELOW “Changes on the Disappointment Cleaver Route”.

Mount Rainier National Park also announced this morning (June 6, 2020) that it has reopened its gates to vehicular access including Paradise and White River which are popular access points for those destined to Camp Muir and Steamboat Prow.  See the press release here.

How to Obtain a Permit and Pay the Climbing Cost Recovery Fee

1)     Get a Reservation!

       a) All permits for overnight use including climbing will be made by reservation only. 

       b) Visit https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/wilderness-permit.htm.

2)     Park staff will contact you by phone or email within one week of the start of your trip to issue your permit.

3)     We will confirm each party member has paid the climbing cost recovery fee.  Each individual climbers pays the fee here.

4)     Your permit will be issued to you by email with supplemental information.

* Changes on the Disappointment Cleaver Route

For an indefinite period this summer, it will no longer be a novice climbing route.

Each year, roughly 10,500 people attempt to climb Mount Rainier.  About 85% of those choose to attempt the Disappointment Cleaver route.  Roughly 4,000 of those Disappointment Cleaver attempts are with one of the guide services.  

The guide services are permitted to put in temporary features and mitigations along the Disappointment Cleaver route to minimize the risks for their groups of climbers.  Among these features are ladders over crevasses, wands marking the route, fixed rope lines through steep/exposed terrain, and shoveled/chopped trail-like surfaces that make it possible to walk normally instead of using more difficult French crampon technique.  This is what makes the Disappointment Cleaver and attractive option for those wanting to travel a well-worn route to the top.

Guide services are not expected to resume their full schedule of guided climbs immediately.

As the Disappointment Cleaver opens for climbing, climbers will find very different conditions this season.  Without these features and adjuncts, the route will be much more difficult to climb, akin to other routes like the Kautz Glacier or the Tahoma Glacier Routes.  The Disappointment Cleaver and the Upper Ingraham Headwall are nearly 45-50 degrees in places.  A much greater repertoire of skills by all party members will be required to climb the route including expertise in French Technique, route finding, step chopping, setting belays, and crevasse rescue.

During poor or marginal weather, climbers normally have some assurance that they can find their way back down because of this well-worn trail with wands marking the route and its switchbacks.  There will be no established route!  Tracks are likely to fan out all over as climbers attempt to find ways around crevasses and seracs.  Guides normally put in hundreds of hours of effort each summer attempting to find the best (or only) route to the summit. This includes adjusting the route throughout the season as crevasses open and conditions change. This is time and effort that non-guided climbing parties will not have.

There is also normally a ‘community’ of climbers attempting the mountain each day.  There is a certain amount of safety in this number of climbers as non-related groups will often help each other along the way.  In the absence of the guide services running at full capacity and fewer non-guided climbers on the route due to the increased difficulty, it is much more likely that you’ll be alone on the route on your summit attempt.  So please take enough gear that you can thrive if you are forced to bivouac due to an injury or losing your way on the upper mountain.

If you would not normally consider climbing the Kautz Glacier or Tahoma Glacier routes, then this may not be the right year for your Disappointment Cleaver trip due to the increased difficulties.

Your Search and Rescue

Mount Rainier National Park maintains a team of rangers who are responsible for search and rescue operations on the upper mountain.  The park also maintains aviation staff and an exclusive-use helicopter based at Mount Rainier in support of search and rescue.  Our teams are trained and in place to conduct operations this summer.  

COVID-19 has prompted our teams to alter the way we conduct incidents and take precautions against the spread of this disease within our own workgroups.  These precautions may slow our response down in several ways.  It is very important for each climbing party to consider a delayed rescue response and equip themselves on summit attempts with gear to last comfortably if they should experience an emergency.

The National Park Service’s policy on search and rescue states that a reasonable attempt will be made to conduct search and rescue operations.  For each field rescuer, there are usually 2-3 people in a support role in the incident command center.  COVID-19 precautions effects all levels of any search and rescue operation.

COVID-19, Personal Protective Equipment, and Your Climb

We very humbly ask you to stay at home if you feel you are sick or are exhibiting symptoms consistent with COVID-19.  The rangers who staff the high camps are also the rangers who clean the toilets each day.  These are also the same rangers who perform the searches and rescues on the upper mountain.  If you know you’re sick and you attempt to climb anyway, you may not only get other climbers and park visitors sick, but you may also transmit this sickness to rangers.

During your climb, we ask you to:
1)     Descend if you feel you are getting sick and stay at home if you experience COVID-19 symptoms
2)     Bring your own bottle of hand sanitizer or disinfecting wipes and use them before entering toilets and after leaving
3)     Separate yourself as you are hiking/climbing and breathing forcefully
4)     Maintain your distance from other climbing parties

Thank You!

Mowich Face, May 27th, 2020

Conditions Update - 6/02/2019

It has been a busy weekend on Mount Rainier. Climbers and skiers have been attempting many routes and generally have reported good conditions, albeit a bit warm with the 11,000-13,000’ freezing levels. Below are a few updates on conditions we have received in the past 24 hours.

Kautz Glacier: Most parties are approaching the route via the Wilson Gully and not The Fan. There are reports of running water at The Castle, but this has varied day-by-day, so plan to melt snow for water. Campsites are still almost entirely snow-covered at The Castle and Camp Hazard. The rock step has refilled with blown-in snow and is only a short downclimb presently. The upper pitches are thinly covered with snow (4-8”), making for fast climbing and readily attainable ice screw protection. At the Wapowety Cleaver crossing around 13,000’, there are a few ways of getting onto the upper Nisqually Glacier, but these have been changing frequently.

Fuhrer Finger & Thumb: Both of these routes have been skied and climbed in the last two days. The bergschrund is still quite filled-in for both lines, though it is starting to become tricky on the Thumb. Icefall from the Wilson Headwall has been reaching the altitude of the traverse from The Castle to the base of these lines, so watch overhead and move efficiently across this terrain. From the top of the couloirs, parties have reported that there is a well-established track with smooth snow surfaces through the upper Nisqually Glacier to the summit. Spontaneous, natural rockfall has been reported in both gullies.

Tahoma Glacier: Reported to be very broken around the 10,000’ level with very difficult navigation through many open crevasses.

Liberty Ridge: Parties report gaining the ridge on the climber’s right side at the bottom. Good travel conditions along the route up to the Black Pyramid, where a few hundred feet of knee-deep snow was found. The bergschrund has one short section of overhanging snow to navigate at the top. Ice screws were useful above Thumb Rock. Spontaneous, natural rockfall has been reported on the lower ridge and at Thumb Rock.

Gibraltar Ledges: The approach from Camp Muir to the ledges remains readily climbable with multiple options. The ledges proper are are fairly melted out with lots of exposed rock and some water ice. Above the ledges, the Upper Gib Chute is still snow up to Camp Comfort. Lots of evidence of recent rockfall along the route. 

Emmons Glacier: See this blog post

Ingraham Direct / Disappointment Cleaver: See this blog post

Gibraltar Ledges May 8, 2019

Looking back towards Camp Muir and the ledges along Gibraltar Rock

As the high pressure and sunny skies continue to dominate the region this week, climbing rangers had an opportunity to climb Gibraltar Ledges. Once the original guided route up the mountain, “Gib” Ledges is still an engaging and direct route to Camp Comfort and onto the summit. Due to it’s S/SW aspect however, the snowy ledges that make the route viable quickly melt out each season. Based on conditions encountered by rangers this week, the route may melt out sooner rather than later with the continued warm weather.

Easy, albeit firm, early morning booting up and across the Cowlitz Glacier will gain you the south saddle at the base of Gibraltar Rock. From here, the route is fairly straight forward as you traverse west along the base of Gib Rock. Climbers should be cognizant of overhead rockfall and exposure to steep, firm slopes below. As you work west towards Gibraltar Chute and the Nisqually Icefall, the exact route may vary slightly depending on snow coverage. As upper Gib Chute comes into view, the route towards Camp Comfort will become clear. Snow in the steeper pitches of the chute was wind packed and made for easy booting. Two pitches of running belays had rangers to the top of the chute and up to Camp Comfort without issue. Although only one tool was necessary for ascending the softer surface conditions, two tools or ice screws may be warranted if the snow becomes firm or icy. From Camp Comfort, the route easily ties back into the wanded Ingraham Direct for quick travel to the summit.

Finishing off the 2nd pitch of steep terrain in Gibraltar Chute

For those climbers looking to attempt an alternate or simply direct route to the top of Mt. Rainier, Gibraltar Ledges is an enjoyable and engaging option. Route finding, moderate belayed climbing and exciting exposure make this a great option for those looking to put their mountain skills to good use. As snow continues to melt out on the ledges, climbing security diminishes and rockfall hazards increase so an attempt sooner rather than later may be prudent. Climbers can also get a good visual on the Gibraltar Ledges while driving up to Paradise and ascending the Muir Snowfield. If you’re fortunate enough to get on this route before it melts out, it’s sure to be a worth while endeavor!

Track Log of the route linking up with the Ingraham Direct above Gibraltar Rock

Route Update: Ingraham Direct and Gibraltar Ledges

On Wednesday, May 16th, climbing rangers ascended the Gibraltar Ledges route from Camp Muir and descended via the Ingraham Direct.  Mild temperatures and minimal wind made for good climbing conditions, even though visitors at Paradise saw only glimpses of the mountain through the marine layer clouds.  The standard route from Camp Muir ascends to Ingraham Flats, then continues straight up the Ingraham Glacier and upper Nisqually Glacier to the crater rim.

The Ingraham Direct route from Camp Muir.  

The most heavily crevassed area on the route is between 11,500 and 11,800 feet on the Ingraham Glacier.  Remember to keep the rope tight between you and your partners when crossing crevasses over snow bridges.  At 12,200 feet, the route trends climber's left towards the top of Gibraltar Rock and Camp Comfort.  From there, the route follows a fairly direct path, occasionally end-running larger crevasses on the upper glacier.

Descending above Ingraham Flats.

The guide services have marked the route well with wands.  Disappointment Cleaver collected a lot of snow last winter (right side of photo above) but there is currently no boot pack going up the Cleaver.

Rangers found decent climbing conditions on the ascent up Gib Ledges.  The route is still mostly snow covered at this time, although several sections of loose rock exist.  Be aware of rockfall and move quickly under Gibraltar Rock.  The snow on the ledges was quite firm, with a little verglas; necessitating careful cramponing.

Gibraltar Ledges

If you plan on climbing this weekend, be sure to check the Mt. Rainier Recreational Forecast.  A dynamic weather pattern will persist through the weekend and into next week.  Be sure to carry a GPS and be proficient with navigation in the event that weather deteriorates during your climb or the trip to high camp.  The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (formerly the Climbing Information Center) is open this weekend and issuing climbing permits--stop by before heading up the mountain. Climb safe and have fun!

Upper Mountain Conditions December 13

Here is a quick note on conditions. As calendar winter approaches people may be considering a winter attempt of the summit. A ranger went up to Camp Muir today to have a look at condition on the upper mountain.

We have had unseasonably nice weather recently and this has not done the mountain much good in terms of climbing conditions. The rain event that started on Thanksgiving was warm enough to have that rain go all the way to the summit. This produced a think ice crust all over the volcano. A few storms coated the mountain with more snow and covered the ice but the recent high pressure and windy conditions have scoured the snow off the steeper slopes. That has resulted in large patches of exposed blue ice over much of the upper mountain.

Some photos from the Muir Snowfield and Camp Muir.



There are visible ice patches on Gibraltar Ledges and at the top of Gib Chute.

The Cowlitz Headwall with exposed ice all over.

So for now the upper mountain would be extremely difficult and hazardous to climb. Even moving around Camp Muir requires crampons. The weather pattern is shifting though and we expect more snow to start arriving on Friday.

Gibraltar Ledges 5/23/2017

On Monday May 22nd climbing rangers Kurt Hicks and Joseph Anderson climbed the Gibraltar (Gib) Ledges route on Mt Rainier. 

* Photo Kurt Hicks and Joe Anderson beginning the traverse through the Gibraltar Ledges.

The climb begins by ascending the striking ridge line (Cowlitz Cleaver) immediately to the northwest of Camp Muir.  The route climbs moderate to steep snow slopes and meanders around scenic rocky gendarmes for 1,600 feet until it intercepts with the namesake Gibraltar Rock. 

From 11,800 feet the route follows exposed snow and rock "ledges" that traverse the well defined base of Gib Rock.  This portion of the climb is south west facing (shade until 10am) and is exposed to rock fall hazard from above while the terrain remains moderately steep and exposed.  The ledges traverse for a third of a mile and intercept with the top of Gibraltar Chute at 12,300 feet.  From here the route climbs 400 feet up 45 degree snow until the top of Gibraltar Rock. 

From this point you are looking down the other side at the upper Ingraham Glacier and the top of Disappointment Cleaver.  There are several large crevasses separating the route from the glacier below.  To avoid this hazard climb toward the summit on the upper Ingraham glacier for another 1,200 feet elevation. From here the route will intercept with the current track of the more popular DC route at approximately 13,800 feet.

We found the route to be in good, mostly snowy conditions along the Ledges. Protection is plentiful, with solid pickets and occasional ice screws available. Try to move quickly across the ledges to reduce exposure to spontaneous rockfall.