Overview:
Precipitation will be winding down today as a high pressure ridge enters the area. Freezing levels on the mountain will climb from 11,000 feet to 16,000 feet by mid-week and into the weekend. Check out the Mt. Rainier Recreational Forecast for more info.
The Emmons-Winthrop route remains climbable and the route conditions are average for this time of year. Some beautiful sunsets and sunrises have been occurring and Camp Schurman has been a wonderful place to watch these last couple of weeks. In general, it continues to be an all time year to climb the Emmons-Winthrop. A true joy. With weather transitioning to sunny and hot, the route will continue to change and so will the hazards:
+Thin/weak snow bridges over crevasses
+Changing route
+Warm temperatures/dehydration
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| The Emmons Glacier and Little Tahoma from the east |
From White River:
The trail is snow free to the base of the Inter Glacier. Climbing conditions on the Inter remain straightforward. Crevasses will continue to open around convexities with the forecast warm temperatures. Use caution if glissading. There's some steep icy pitches that end on rock islands. Don't glissade in crampons.
Camp Curtis to Camp Schurman:
The transition from the dirt trail below Camp Curtis to the Emmons glacier has been giving some parties difficulty. The trail begins adjacent to the numbered sites at Camp Curtis.
Accessing the glacier requires a 50-foot scramble down a loose gully (Class 2-3). Wearing crampons for this section may give some climbers more secure footing; make your own assessment.
Once below the downclimb, rope up before walking to Camp Schurman. This route from Camp Curtis onto the Emmons remains the preferred route and is easier than any alternative.
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| The scramble transition from Camp Curtis to the Emmons Glacier |
The route above Camp Schurman is a tale of two boot packs - one is well defined, and the other is more recent and difficult to see. Climbers will need to leave the old boot back frequently to ascend the upper mountain. From Camp Schurman, follow the well-defined foot path up the Corridor. A few crevasses are opening up along the corridor with punchy snow bridges when the snow softens.
At 11,500 feet, just above the corridor are two large crevasse crossings. The snow bridges spanning these crevasses are narrow and may require the use of snow anchors to belay climbers as they cross. A fall while crossing either of these bridges (or plugs) will not be held by team arrest.
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| The first of two large crevasse crossing at 11,500 ft |
The first crevasse crossing at 11,500 feet is simple and ample space exists above and below for snow anchors. The second crevasse crossing is more difficult to negotiate. The trail is narrow, exposed, and the bridge is showing signs of weakness. Using a belay here is recommended-especially on the descent. A rope interval of 35 feet between climbers is enough to span these crevasse crossings. Some parties have elected to turn around here.
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| The first of two large crevasse crossing at 11,500 ft (from uphill looking down) |
From the 11,500 ft crossings, the boot pack ascends straight up for a few hundred feet before making an ascending traverse to climbers right. Along this traverse, climbers will need to follow variations to the old boot pack to find intact snow bridges to cross several crevasses. A few wands exist in this area marking the better crossings but evaluate each one as conditions change. These crossings are easy to miss on the descent.
Winthrop Shoulder:
The route makes switchbacks up the shoulder from 12,200 feet to 13,000 feet. Through this section, climbers will have to leave the defined boot back several times to find intact snow bridges to cross crevasses. The snow texture is ankle high sun cups that soften nicely after sunrise. At 13,000 feet, the well-defined boot pack begins traversing climber’s right towards Liberty Saddle.
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| The boot pack from 13,000 ft toward Liberty Saddle |
Just below the saddle, the route end runs a large crevasse far to climber’s right. A half dozen crevasses can be end run by zig-zagging the low angle terrain. At 13,900 feet, traversing climber’s left above a large crevasse for about 500 feet will provide easier walking to the crater rim and will avoid the large penitentes just north of Columbia Crest.
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| The Emmons-Winthrop route as of 7/30/2024 |
Risk Management and Time Management:
The Emmons-Winthrop route is not easier than the Disappointment Cleaver route - and requires different skills. It requires a route-finding skillset and the ability to belay climbers and construct solid snow anchors. Crossing crevasses while temperatures are lower before sunrise will mitigate some risks. However, the route may be difficult to navigate in the dark. Dehydration is a major concern going into this weekend, and parties will need to manage time efficiently to avoid a long and hot descent.
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| Early morning light from the top of the Corridor, looking SE |
Additional Information
- Check out the Emmons-Winthrop Route Brief for more information about climbing this route.
- Some parties have discovered recently that the ski season is over on the route above Camp Schurman. Snow conditions are most conducive to climbing with mountaineering boots.
- Equipment: a shovel is necessary for a flat tent platform at Camp Schurman. A couple ice screws may be a good addition to your team's crevasse rescue kit.
- Climbers can pick up their climbing permit at the White River Wilderness Information Center which is open 7:30 am to 5:00 pm daily, (phone: 360-569-6670). Blue bags can be gathered here. Please climb with blue bags.
-Climbing permits may be obtained 24 hours in advance of the trip. Consider getting your permit the day before your trip to allow your party to get a pre-dawn start from White River. With the very warm weather expected this weekend, climbing while its cool will make the trip more enjoyable.
