July 26, 2024
This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.
Overview
Winter of 2024 brought slightly warmer than average temperatures, resulting in average seasonable snowfall on the upper and mid mountain. Below ~5000ft, snow totals were below average. Currently the snow line is at about 7000 - 7500 feet. Summer is here on Mount Rainier and freezing levels have been at or above the summit for the last 3 weeks. Crevasses are opening up and the route has seen some significant variations compared to years past. Many teams have been reaching the summit with the current established routes. Some of the hazards associated with higher temperatures include:
+ Rock fall/Icefall
+ Crevasse Bridge Collapse
+Dehydration and Heat Illness
Muir Route
The path to Camp Muir up the Muir Snowfield currently follows the standard summer trail. Please pay special attention to trail markings and stay on the trail as the local alpine meadows are fragile and unique. Above Pebble Creek the route is mostly snow covered to Camp Muir
Disappointment Cleaver
The route to Ingraham Flats from Camp Muir takes the standard route. It is well marked and boot packed. Climbers should be prepared to shorten their rope spacing after getting off the Cowlitz Glacier and before crossing Cathedral Gap. This will reduce risk of crossing ropes with other teams and knocking loose rocks onto climbers below.
The route above Ingraham Flats currently ascends the Disappointment Cleaver to its top. The path is clear of any major cracks and gaining the Cleaver is straightforward. On the Cleaver, teams should be prepared to shorten rope spacing and get the rope off the ground to minimize rock fall hazard on climbers below. The Cleaver is approximately 25% snow covered, with intermittent patches remaining throughout the ridge.
From the top of the Cleaver, only one established route currently goes to the summit. This route is marked in the map below. A previous variation, noted as the "red variation" in the 7/20/24 post, has seen critical ladder crossings fall out of condition. While it is possible that this section will get reestablished, it is not currently climbable.
Track from Rangers climbing on 7/20/24
The current route requires one to travel climbers right off the top of the Cleaver along a wanded boot pack under a large serac. This is followed by a few sections of fixed pickets, ladders, and ropes. At ~13,000', the route downshifts in technical difficulty and becomes similar to more typical DC conditions with a well-established, wanded boot pack to the summit. It is possible that recent high winds have knocked over some wands up high. Climbers should have confidence in navigating the upper portion of the route without the common wanded handrail. It is worth noting on this route that there is no getting around accepting the hazards associated with traveling under a serac.
Bottom line, the DC is in a slightly more "technical" state than normal. Independent climbers should be prepared to utilize their ropes, pickets, prussiks, etc. for belay, ascension, and descension on the more challenging sections. Climbers should also be prepared to coordinate with other teams to manage the potential for bottle necking on route. Please be prepared to assess the quality of all fixed gear, ropes, and ladders. Do not remove any equipment found on route. For a broad overview on the traditional climbing route, please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct
The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00. Check in here before your climb to receive your permit, to check for walk up availability, and pick up "Blue Bags" for human waste. You will also check out at the PWIC at the end of trip. Lastly, please remember to pay the Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee.
We look forward to seeing you in the hills!
