July 28th, 2024
This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.
In recent weeks Mt Rainier has had overcast skies and slightly lower than average temperatures followed by clear skies and near normal temperatures. Snow levels are at about 7,600 feet and the wildflowers are in full effect in the subalpine meadows. There have been a few fires to the east and to the north, yet the air quality and upper mountain views have remained relatively clear. The main hazards that climbers should consider include:
+Ice fall under seracs and rock fall
+Crevasse fall due to thin snow bridges
+Dehydration
Kautz Glacier Route
The approach to the Kautz Glacier route via Commet Falls trailhead is free of snow up to the Turtle Snowfield at about 7,000 feet. At this time hikers will see numerous wildflowers including lupine, paintbrush, avalanche lilies and pasqueflowers. Please avoid the temptation to pick the flowers and only take photos. The approach via the Lower Nisqually to the Wilson Bench is heavily crevassed but passable at this time.
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| Approach track via Commet Falls Trailhead |
Campsites at both upper and lower Castle Camp (9,200 feet and 9,400 feet) are snow free with running water near by. The upper bivies between 10,800 and 11,200 feet are also snow free. Please make use of existing tent platforms and avoid creating new sites when possible.
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| An example of a Kautz Route track |
The rock step at the start of the Kautz climb is still currently filled in making for a small move down onto the snow. There is an existing anchor and fixed rope here. Be sure to inspect for yourself if choosing to use this for security. The ice chute has one mandatory ice step at the very base. This portion is about 50 feet long. Options for additional pitches of ice exist to the climbers right of the steeped snow in the center of the chute. The remaining snow is heavily sun affected and has formed into buckets and steps.
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| Lower ice chute displaying the ice step |
Once past the ice chute, navigating both the upper Kautz Glacier and the Upper Nisqually involve crossing a series of snow bridges and moving over penitentes. These are snow “spikes” which form at high altitudes and are the result of radiation and sublimation of the snow. Consider adjusting your estimated travel times as these features reduce the speed of travel somewhat.
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| Wapowety Cleaver looking across the upper Nisqually |
For specifics on the Kautz Glacier route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Kautz Glacier Guide. Climer registration can be done at either the Longmire Wilderness Information Center or the Paradise Wilderness Information Center. Both are open from 7:30 am- 5:00pm daily. “Blue bags,” or human waste bags, can be found here. Please carry all waste off the mountain. Be sure to check out at after finishing your climb. Lastly remember to pay for an annual climbing cost recovery fee.
