Route Overview:
The current route is in the same location as our route update on 07/28. The route is standard from Camp Muir to the top of the Cleaver, currently with no adjuncts. The route then goes direct from the top of the cleaver toward the summit. This takes climbers through a steep section of snow that ends in a single vertical ladder at 12.8k. There is a handline and pickets for running protection. As always, inspect these pieces of "fixed gear" before using them. Expect this section to change rapidly, especially with this prolonged period of high freezing levels. Below shows images of this section.
Topping out from the ladder, the route weaves through crevasses for a few hundred feet before approaching the traverse under a large crack at 13.2k that leads to the double ladder. This traverse is exposed to another section of overhead hazard, with a 'tidal wave' feature of sagging snow that hangs above in places. The route then ascends the double ladder that has fixed pro above, and a hand-line along the ladder. It continues through a steeper section that levels out around 13.5k, and continues to the summit.
Takeaways and Messaging:
With warmer temperatures, we are seeing increased rockfall, ice fall and weakened snow bridges. If you plan to attempt a summit climb, returning back to terrain with minimal overhead hazard by 10am is advised - it's never great to be out on the upper mountain during the heat of the day. As always, move efficiently through these sections of objective hazard - don't stop for water or an equipment change below loose rock.
The 'tidal wave' feature requires the same efficiency. This is an area of bottlenecking as climbers wait for their turn on the double ladder. Coordinate start times with other teams to minimize the potential for bottlenecking on the route, but if a line does form, wait out of the overhead hazard before your turn. Also - consider looking for an alternative to the double ladder. Glacier climbing requires looking beyond where others have gone before and finding the best path forward for your party. Sometimes, that's turning around.
If your party decides to use the double ladder, it requires 30ft of rope spacing between team members to ensure there aren't two people on the ladder at once.
It is recommended to increase your team security to through these steeper sections, using a belay, fixed pro, prussiks, etc. The DC is in a more 'technical' state than normal. Proficiency with cramponing and increasing team security is required in the section between 12.8k-13.2k.
Do not remove any equipment found on the route - and again - don't assume that any equipment found on the route is safe to use! Inspect all route adjuncts and decide whether to use them or not - there's always another way!
For a broad overview on the traditional climbing route, please reference the NPS route briefing packet-Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct
