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| Approximate line of the Emmons-Winthrop Route as of 8/4/2024 |
As of 8/4/2024, the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier route still follows the general path of the 7/30/24 route update, Mount Rainier Climbing: Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 7/30/2024, however this week's heat has started taking its toll and conditions are quite dynamic along the standard route. Climbers attempting the Emmons side of the mountain should expect a higher technical bar for successful climbs and be prepared for:
- Belayed rope techniques for steep snow/ice and marginal crevasse-bridge crossings, including ability to build anchors in snow and ice
- Careful crevasse-bridge stability assessment, both in cold-firm and soft-warming conditions
- Route finding in complex glaciated terrain, and preparedness for significant re-routes as current route conditions deteriorate
- Increasing travel over blue ice as snow continues to melt out
Route Highlights:
Currently, the route has multiple crevasse crossings that are in marginal condition, and any one of these falling out could lead to significant re-routes. Be prepared for the possibility of a bridge crossed on the ascent having fallen out by the time you return on the descent. Have a plan to deal with this, such as an alternate route, or rappelling past the fallen crevasse bridge. Hedge your margins and plan your climbs to avoid being on the upper mountain midday when bridges are weakest in the heat, and ice fall is more prevalent. Additionally, set hard turnaround times that have you back at camp early, leave you with some extra gas in tank to deal with unexpected obstacles, and stick to that plan. Here are the major obstacles along the route as of 8/4:
- Series of 5-10' wide crevasses when gaining the corridor near 10,000' with thin, undercut bridges
- The corridor has several patches of exposed glacial ice up to 30 degrees steep that the routes ascends through, and vertical crevasses that parallel the boot track
- Two large crevasse crossings near 11,500' at the top of the corridor. The second of the two crossings is 30-40' wide and the bridge is precariously stacked with significant fall potential - a belayed crossing is recommended.
- Near 12,000' is a 15-20' wide crevasse with a similarly precarious bridge crossing, a belay is recommended here as well
- ~12,400' where the route gains the Winthrop Rib is a widening crevasse with multiple thin, undercut bridges. End running this crack maybe possible down and climber's right.
- 13,500' just before the route gains the Liberty Saddle is a long serac followed by an exposed step up and over a thinning bridge
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| 11,500' crevasse bridge crossing |
For those expecting a more typical glacier walk, this year's summer climbing season maybe winding down on the Emmons-Winthrop, however, make no mistake, the mountain is still very climbable and multiple options routes for those with a higher technical skill set and the intrepidness to explore Mt Rainier's largest glacier in deep summer.
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| Emmons-Winthrop route track 8/4/2024 |
