This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.
Overview
The guided route up the Disappointment Cleaver continues to change. The guide services worked all day yesterday to establish a route that goes through to the summit without traversing below and through the recent ice fall on the Ingraham Glacier. The route currently travels straight up from the Cleaver. There is a handline through a steep pitch of snow. Expect this section to change rapidly and potentially require a ladder soon. After the handline parties will encounter steep ladders at 12,800' and 13,200'. As is always the case, inspect these pieces before using them and expect rapid change as the snow melts throughout the day. We are continuing to see warmer than average temperatures on the mountain.
Takeaways
With warmer temperatures we are seeing increased rockfall, icefall and weakened snow bridges. If you plan to attempt a summit climb, returning back to terrain with minimal overhead hazard by 10am is advised. Substantial delays and bottlenecks were observed today at the adjunct locations, these slowed climbers down by over an hour. Additionally, climbers reported watching ice fall occur near these ladders.
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| Double Ladder at 13,200' |
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| Multiple Parties waiting at the 13,200' Ladder |
Bottom line, the DC is in a slightly more "technical" state than normal. Independent climbers should be prepared to utilize their ropes, pickets, prussiks, etc. for belay, ascension, and descension on the more challenging sections. Climbers should also be prepared to coordinate with other teams to manage the potential for bottlenecking on route. Please be prepared to assess the quality of all fixed gear, ropes, and ladders. Do not remove any equipment found on route. For a broad overview on the traditional climbing route, please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct
