Labor Day Weekend on the Emmons



Inter Glacier breaking up and melting away

A quick update on conditions for climbers interested in heading up to Camp Schurman and/or attempting the Emmons Glacier route over the holiday weekend. Conditions on the east side of the mountain continue the slow, general trend of opening up and melting out. Approaching Camp Schurman via the Inter Glacier, climbers can expect to find loose rock down low, exposed ice throughout, and open crevasses up high. The approach up the Emmons and into camp is still a viable option for teams but they must be prepared to manage the transition off the ridge, below Camp Curtis and down onto the Emmons. The rock quality is loose in this location and remains the crux at this time.

Crevasses and moats around Camp Schurman

The snow and ice around Camp Schurman continues break up at a steady rate but the general path out of camp and up onto the Emmons Flats remains the same. As fewer teams continue to attempt the route each week, the boot back has nearly disappeared. The latest reports are that the route still remains largely intact up high and continues to traverse all the way out to Liberty Saddle. As before, route finding issues and long summit times have continued be the largest obstacle for climbers.

Teams planning to climb this weekend can expect brisk conditions as fall is in the air and freezing levels are predicted to stay cool. Ice screws in addition to pickets are becoming a necessity for the route as firm snow and exposed ice present themselves. With the forecast calling for sunny skies and cool conditions up high, a weekend in the alpine at Camp Schurman surely won't disappoint. Crowds are looking minimal and rangers are happy to discuss the route/conditions further for those who decide to make the trek!

 

Disappointment Cleaver - 8/28/2018

The DC is holding on.  The number of independent climbers has dropped off considerably over the past couple of weeks.  The scene at Camp Muir is a stark contrast to the middle of July. The smoke has cleared out and there has been a brisk hint of Fall in the air over the past few days. There are also several large crevasses around Camp, so beware!

A large crevasse on the 'wind roll' near tents. 

The route itself is in late season condition and therefore a little more exciting than usual.  There are several ladder crossings and hollow bridges to contend with, along with increased rockfall exposure.  The guide services are still running successful trips and a handful of independent parties summited this week as well.

Approaching Ingraham Flats.  The Disappointment Cleaver is entirely melted out and the route ascends the 'spine' of the Cleaver to its top at 12,300'.

As rangers descended the route on 8/28, guides were putting in a ladder above Ingraham Flats. This should help cut out some extra distance on the route as it was previously going high to end-run this crevasse.

A new ladder near 'high crack'. 

Additionally, there are ladders at 12,700' and around 13,000'.  Both of these are actually several smaller ladders lashed together to span 10-15' wide crevasses.  These crevasses are over 100' deep.  The ladders have hand lines but are still a bit precarious.  If you are uncomfortable walking across these ladders then don't be afraid to turn around.  As with all 'fixed gear' it is important to assess their integrity.  Don't just blindly step onto them.  Make sure both ends are resting on either side and that all of the pickets are sound.  It is a good idea to clip one of the hand lines with a tether/locking carabiner attached to your harness for additional protection.  Falling off of one of these ladders without clipping in would entail a large fall and swing.  There are pickets on either side for 'running pro' and you should also clip your rope in as you go across.  Consider belaying your partners across these ladders if there's any doubt about falling!

The 12,700' ladder on the descent.  

The 12,700' ladder. 

The ladder at 13,000' - taken on the descent.  This ladder is not quite as long as the 12,700' ladder.  

A hollow section around 12,800' with a hand line.  

8/28 track log.

All in all it's a nice time to be on the mountain as we transition into Fall. Those looking for a more challenging DC climb will not be disappointed.  

Stormy Season Changer

An upper level low pressure system passes through the region this weekend and with it might come the end of the freezing levels that soar above the mountain.  A 7500 foot freezing level predicted on Friday seems to be the coldest and a big change from 15,000 foot freezing earlier this week.  There's also quite a bit of wind generally associated with a flux in temperature this large.  It's not a great idea to be up on the upper mountain when there's high winds or a swirling cloud cap.  Here's a blurb from the latest Recreational Forecast:

.SYNOPSIS...Cooler weather on the way beginning Thursday. A weak 
upper level trough will move through the park Thursday night  
with the flow aloft becoming northwesterly. The combination of low
level onshore flow and northwesterly flow aloft will clear most 
of the smoke out of the area by Friday. Weak systems embedded in 
the northwesterly flow aloft will cross the area over the weekend 
for a slight chance of showers.

 

An example of clouds building near Mount Rainier from a couple years ago.

With the fall equinox still a month away it's hard to believe that autumnal weather has already arrived, but the sun has started to dip lower in the sky and the long term forecast has a cooling trend to it.  It's the time of year to start packing warmer clothes for a summit attempt and to be prepared for longer, more intense storms.  Also, be cautious on the now steep and firm late-August snow when it refreezes.  The slushy booting conditions of mid-summer can become dicey and treacherous before the new soft snow of winter falls. 

Here's a link to some of the more useful weather resources to help predict what conditions will be like when you're on the mountain.  Remember to check in with rangers when you register at the ranger station and the evening before you climb at high camps for the latest forecast. 

Emmons-Winthrop & Camp Schurman Update 8/23

Emmons-Winthrop Route from Camp Schurman. 

Over the course of the last month, fewer and fewer climbers have been showing up to Camp Schurman in order to attempt the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Route. With late-season route finding challenges, broken glacial conditions, high temperatures, and intense smoke it's not hard to see why climbing numbers are on a downward trend. With that being said, there are still a number of teams trickling into camp and attempting to climb. For those parties well versed in glacial navigation, route finding and managing tricky crevasse hazards, success has come in the form of 14-17 hour summit climbs. Despite having previous experience, these teams reported challenging route finding in the dark, given the lack of bootpack and the haphazard nature of crevasses strewn about the mountain. Many teams that showed up to camp and felt unprepared to handle to challenges of the current route.  They decided to bag their climb and simply enjoy a night in the alpine.

Overall, the route is still following the same general track that was posted on 8/6/18. Climbers continue to report insecure cracks just out of camp, on the lower corridor, traversing back to the north around 12,500'-12,600', and again near the bergschrund at 13,400'. In addition to the upper mountain, it's worth noting that hazardous conditions can be found much lower as well. Glide cracks and overhung crevasses are beginning to open up along the edge of Camp Schurman.  Climbers should pay attention to where they are walking when collecting snow and pitching their tents.

View of the Inter Glacier

In addition, as the summer heat continues to take its toll, the Inter Glacier has melted out to a point that is quite hazardous due to increased rockfall, open crevasses and large expanses of exposed ice. Teams should pay extra attention to the hazard both overhead and underfoot. Once atop the Inter Glacier, the standard descent onto the Emmons from Camp Curtis is also causing issues for inexperienced teams. As the glacier and seasonal snowpack recede from the ridge, what's left behind is steep, crumbly terrain that is insecure underfoot and exposed to the moat below. Although one can see from the photo that the route still connects, teams should be prepared to handle this terrain, provide security through some form of belay or perhaps turn around all together. Once onto the Emmons, a long traverse will bring you up and around so that you actually drop down into Camp Schurman as opposed to climbing up into it. Doing so avoids the loose, crumbly and steep slope that climbers use earlier in the year to access camp.

Line showing the route onto the Emmons Glacier at about 9000 feet.

DC update from 8/22

Track of DC route on 8/22

In the last week the DC has stayed relatively the same with some minor changes. Of course, with the freezing level having been above the summit some of the days this week, all the crevasse bridges have only thinned. The objective hazards of rock fall, ice and serac fall, and crevasse falls are high this time of year.

Due to minor route alterations, the number of ladders change almost from day to day. Be sure to assess these before crossing them, especially on the descent, in case they have melted out.

The route goes slightly further up the Ingraham Glacier out of the flats before dropping down and traversing toward the cleaver itself, which is all loose rock.  Be especially careful at this point on the route.  The thin glacial rib used to access the cleaver is prone to rockfall from above, has steep firm icy footing itself, and a significant moat below.  At the top of the cleaver the route now veers slightly up and left before cutting right through the crevasse jumble formed by the glacier splitting around the cleaver. And the traverse up high toward the Nisqually Glacier has taken a slightly higher route.

All and all, this route takes a higher level of skill, more physical fitness, and larger acceptance of risk than it did in July and early-August.  Be sure to keep your head up and move efficiently through the numerous exposed spots, and always assess a bridge crossing before taking it.

Emmons-Winthrop Update: August 17, 2018

Emmons Glacier from Camp Schurman on 8.17.2018

Weeks of hot weather have resulted in challenging late-season conditions for the Emmons Glacier and the Inter Glacier approach. The Inter Glacier is melted down to skeletal glacier ice in wide swaths and sports many open crevasses; more notably, the approach gully to the Inter Glacier appears to have completely melted out, increasing the potential for rockfall on that approach. Descending from Camp Curtis onto the Emmons Glacier also presents serious rockfall danger.  Wear helmets, and scout your chosen line.

Glacier Basin

Looking down the Inter Glacier

Inter Glacier and Steamboat Prow

The Emmons Glacier itself has been climbed in the past week, however it is presenting somewhat typical late-season challenges and is increasingly circuitous. Overall, the route isn't very different than it was in recent posts--but with guided climbs done for the year--do not expect a bootpack or wanded path. Be prepared to find your own route, assess snow bridges and crevasse crossings (even in camp!), and be fully self-sufficient on your climb since it is likely that your group will be alone on the upper mountain. Expect a long summit day, potential for crevasse falls, firm snow and ice underfoot, and changing glacial features on the descent in these warm temperatures.

Crevasses above Camp Schurman as viewed from Steamboat Prow