Friday, August 17, 2018

Emmons-Winthrop Update: August 17, 2018

Emmons Glacier from Camp Schurman on 8.17.2018
Weeks of hot weather have resulted in challenging late-season conditions for the Emmons Glacier and the Inter Glacier approach. The Inter Glacier is melted down to skeletal glacier ice in wide swaths and sports many open crevasses; more notably, the approach gully to the Inter Glacier appears to have completely melted out, increasing the potential for rockfall on that approach. Descending from Camp Curtis onto the Emmons Glacier also presents serious rockfall danger.  Wear helmets, and scout your chosen line.

Glacier Basin
Looking down the Inter Glacier

Inter Glacier and Steamboat Prow

The Emmons Glacier itself has been climbed in the past week, however it is presenting somewhat typical late-season challenges and is increasingly circuitous. Overall, the route isn't very different than it was in recent posts--but with guided climbs done for the year--do not expect a bootpack or wanded path. Be prepared to find your own route, assess snow bridges and crevasse crossings (even in camp!), and be fully self-sufficient on your climb since it is likely that your group will be alone on the upper mountain. Expect a long summit day, potential for crevasse falls, firm snow and ice underfoot, and changing glacial features on the descent in these warm temperatures.

Crevasses above Camp Schurman as viewed from Steamboat Prow