July-uary on the DC

 

Snow on Cathedral Rocks and the Cowlitz Glacier

 

 

Climbing Rangers often say that summer doesn't start on Mount Rainier unitl the 4th of July. This summer it looks like we'll be pushing right up to that date before dry, warm weather moves over the region.

 

The GFS weather model showing accumulated percipitation up to 5:00AM July 4.

 

 

A persistent low pressure over the Northwest has lead to cool and showery weather over the mountian for much of the past week. The pattern has been remarkably similar day-to-day with clear skies in the morning, followed by cloud build up and showers in the afternoon.

 

A stronger pulse of bad weather brought snow showers in the early morning hours of July 2nd. We had three inches of snow accumulation at Camp Muir and guides reported up to six inches on the upper mountain.

 

New snow at Camp Muir 2019.07.02

 

 

This cool weather will keep the route conditions good as we go into the long holiday weekend. We expect large numbers of climbers Thursday through Sunday so please plan on having other climbers on the mountain with you, even on less-popular routes like the Kautz glacier.

 

 

The high camps are at full reservation levels so if you are looking to get a walk up permit please arrive in the Park early and have your climbing fee documentation handy. The will speed up the registration process for everyone.

We are always at maximum levels for our popluar climbing routes during this, the busiest, time of the year. A flexible itinerary will increase the chances of getting the camp of your choice.

 

Thanks and have a safe, fun Independence Day.

Disappointment Cleaver 6/29/19

Weekend crowds on the route as seen from the top of the cleaver at 12,400'. 

Cooler temperatures and unsettled weather have kept the crowds down over the last few days but clear weather last weekend brought about a full Camp Muir and many successful climbers on the route. With a forecast of moderate winds, cooler temps and a slight chance of thunderstorms for this upcoming weekend, climbers should come prepared for a wide variety of conditions.

From blue bird skies to blizzard like white out, rangers saw the full gamut of weather this past week and want to make sure teams are showing up prepared to handle the elements as they set off from Paradise and from Camp Muir. Even though clear weather may be seen while stepping out of the parking lot or Camp Muir, parties should ensure they have the proper equipment and know how to navigate and survive an afternoon storm. GPS, maps, compass, stove, tent and sleeping bag are just a few of the extra items that can make all of the difference if you and your team find yourselves in a tough situation.

Photo of DC tracklog. Notice the two variations from the top of the cleaver. The left hand option
 is no longer being maintained as the right hand route is climbing very well.

Over the last 10 days, the DC route has shifted above 12,500'. Where the old route had been traversing west towards Camp Comfort, it now trends more to the North (climbers right). Guide services have now pulled all of the wands and fixed protection off the old route due to the overhead hazard and icy exposure of the old route.,  

12,900' crevasse that now has a ladder in place. 

Despite low snow conditions between Camp Muir and the top of the Disappointment Cleaver at 12,400', the upper mountain is climbing very well. Guide services installed one ladder at 12,900' to manage a crevasse that is beginning to open. No other adjuncts or fixed equipment can be found along the route.

Choke points like these can, and do, create bottle necks on a busy days so teams should strive to leave early, move efficiently and plan ahead for congestion along the route. Despite nearly 140 climbers along the route last Saturday, teams were respectful and courteous to one another which allowed for fluid transitions and smooth climbing. 

Rockfall hazard along the route as you exit the Ingraham Glacier and
 gain the Disappointment Cleaver

Rockfall hazard and overhead icefall remain the largest concern for the lower half of the route. Teams should ensure that they are not exposed to rockfall or icefall before they pull off the track to take breaks. Many of the areas exposed to overhead hazard are unavoidable so deliberate, efficient movement through the terrain is the only way to manage it. Even in the dark, keep an eye out for rocks and ice along the trail and ensure you are not climbing directly above or below another party when climbing on loose rock. 

The climbing season is now in full swing up on Mt. Rainier and both the DC and Emmons routes have been full over the course of the last few weekends. Last weekend was dominated by clear weather up high and light-moderate winds which created very pleasant, very stable conditions for those that braved the low level clouds in the parking lot. This weekend will undoubtedly produce some great weather and conditions for climbing however, teams need to come prepared for the chance of thunderstorms and rapidly changing weather that is common for this time of year.

Emmons-Winthrop Update 6/23/2019

Traverse between upper Emmons and Liberty Saddle at about 13,500'

Climbers have been braving lower freezing levels and steady winds to make the summit over the last weekend.  All the cold weather has been keeping the route in great shape.  A track log from Camp Schurman to the Crater Rim put the current route at 2.7 miles - REAL direct!

Track log from 6/23/2019

Getting to the top requires crossing crevasses (some big ones are right outside of camp!) so be sure to have your ascension skills dialed in case you fall in.  Don't be afraid to place 'running protection' when self-arrest might not be sufficient to stop your partner from dragging you into the crevasse if they fall in.  Many climbers have been placing pickets in steeper sections above crevasses and a couple of teams have even put in an ice screw or two on the firmer sections.

Personal rainbows could be found this weekend near Camp Schurman

With the approach melted out to Glacier Basin and less ideal surface conditions there's been a noted decrease in the amount of skiers total.  Lately, skiers have been stashing skis at around 11,500' near the top of the corridor and continuing on foot from there.  Icy sections, sun cups, and variable firm to unconsolidated snow have made for challenging ski conditions.

Typically the route begins to get more and more circuitous in July until it becomes too broken to ascend.  Line up a good weather window in the next couple weeks to hit prime time here on the Eastside!

Disappointment Cleaver 6/18/2019

Looking across Ingraham Flats towards the summit. 6/17/19

A more direct variation of the upper Disappointment Cleaver Route has been established by the guide services. The new variation avoids the initial route's long westerly traverse to Camp Comfort. To access the variation, follow the lower route through the Cleaver as described in the June 9th post. A few hundred yards above the cleaver the route will split. The East (climber’s right) path is the newly established, direct route. See photo below.

Initial route traverses left below the icefall, the new variation switchbacks just right of center of the photo (Taken from top of Disappointment Cleaver) 6/17/19

Both variations are free of any ladders or boards as of now. However, there are substantial cracks at 13,700 and 12,800 that require careful, focused crossing. The lower third of the Cleaver is still fairly loose, so be sure to take coils in to prevent your rope from generating rock fall. There is a hand line in place at the base of the Cleaver. It is not intended to be used as a fixed line so do not prussik to the line. 

There has been consistent rockfall just out of camp on the Cowlitz Glacier, in Cathedral Gap, and on the traverse to the base of the Cleaver. Remember to take breaks in more protected areas and move quickly through areas with overhead hazard. 

Emmons/Winthrop Route Update - 6/19/2019

Climbing conditions on the Emmons-Winthrop route have been slightly variable due to the large changes in freezing levels over the last week.  Climbers have generally reported good, firm conditions on the ascent, with conditions ranging widely on the descent: from mid-shin plunge-stepping, to icy patches requiring running-pro (ice screws).  While the latter may be most applicable in areas where the route runs immediately above large crevasses, and when conditions would be challenging to self-arrest a fall, it is a technique that parties should be prepared to employ if necessary.

We're entering a rapid transition in crevasse bridging, and numerous climbers have been discovering how easy it is to misread the crevasse hazard.  As crevasses continue to weaken with the warm weather, the current boot track may not be the best route. Investigate crevasse crossings and be open to the option of walking around the end of the crevasse rather than over a thin bridge.

The increasing popularity of ski-mountaineering descents on the Emmons-Winthrop poses numerous existential challenges to aspiring ski-mountaineers:  Is it worth it to essentially travel un-roped, at speeds where it's hard to assess terrain subleties that imply a hidden crevasse, with few contingencies should a crevasse fall occur?  While some routes on Mount Rainier may not be technically more challenging than a typical 'blue' run at a ski area, it's important to recognize that if your skills aren't up to the challenge of skiing or riding in highly variable snow conditions, with a heavy pack, after climbing 10,000 feet, in terrain where even a minor hip check may immediately result in an uncontrollable slide above significant crevasses, then the upper Emmons-Winthrop may not be an advisable objective.  

Questionable route selection on the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier

While the ski tracks above were likely made prior to the crevasse widening to it's size in the photo, it illustrates the difficulty in assessing the terrain.  Make conservative choices, and realize that there may be significant non-event feedback that is affecting your decision making.  Many skiers (and climbers) don't realize how close to "the edge" they actually are.  If you've skied without a guide in the French Alps, you might be ready.  If not, approach a ski-mo descent with a highly conservative mindset.

Parties can increase their 'margin of safety' by knowing the route well (come climb the route before you try to ski it) as well as being highly proficient in their route assessment skills, crevasse rescue skills, and glacial skiing skills.  If its 'natural' for you to scrub speed just before a steep rollover, you might be applying ski-area skills inappropriately, as you might be scrubbing speed right on top of a crevasse lid!

Parties with single-push ski-mo objectives should remember that a climbing permit, as well as paying the cost-recovery fee is still applicable, and helps rangers know where folks are on the mountain in the case of an incident.

While the hazards of ski-mountaineering are very real, so are the rewards, and it's an excellent approach tool for the Inter Glacier and for those looking to increase the whoohoo factor on the descent back to Glacier Basin!

Fryingpan Glacier - Little Tahoma Conditions - 6/18/2019

The Fryingpan Creek trail (Wonderland Trail) is snow free from the Fryingpan Creek Trailhead to the footbridge that crosses Fryingpan Creek.  The trail from there to Summerland is still partially snow-covered.  Rangers ascended the Fryingpan Glacier to K Spire on June 18th.  It appears that Little Tahoma has been receiving quite a bit of climbing traffic, judging by the numerous tracks across the Fryingpan Glacier to the notch above Whitman Crest. Below are a few pictures and observations:

In green is the approximate approach used by rangers to reach the Fryingpan Glacier.  This route is generally safer than the steeper slope on climbers left (red arrow).  The steeper slope features large and dangerous moats that are difficult to see when looking downhill and has contributed to glissading-related accidents in the past.  Avoid that slope. 

There is currently running water in several spots as you make your way up to the Fryingpan Glacier.  The glacier itself is in good shape, but there are areas with large and thinly-veiled cracks that present remarkably little surface expression.  It is highly recommended that parties rope-up on the Fryingpan and be prepared for crevasse rescue.  This is the time of year that crevasses are melting out and present the greatest 'trap door' hazard, especially when the snow is warm and soft.

A climbing ranger scoping out the Fryingpan Glacier with Little Tahoma, Mount Rainier, and K Spire in the distance.

The route that most parties have been taking across the Fryingpan stays high, just below Whitman Crest, and traverses a steeper slope that is subject to rockfall off of the Crest. It also runs parallel to several large crevasses.  Consider giving some thought to alternative routes rather than automatically traveling in others' boot prints.  A boot pack does not always indicate the best or safest route.  Regardless of the specific route taken over the Fryingpan, parties will at times be forced to walk in parallel to crevasses, so brush up on how to travel 'en echelon' to increase the security of your rope team.

The Fryingpan Glacier from the summit of K Spire.

Another view of the Fryingpan from the top of K Spire.

While rangers did not climb Little Tahoma on this patrol, they talked to several parties of climbers and skiers that did summit.  Overall, the route appears to be in great shape. Please remember to practice good Leave No Trace ethics in this zone.  As snow melts out on the lower meadows, stick to the trail or durable surfaces (snow, rocks) where possible to protect the fragile alpine vegetation.  And remember, payment of the Climbing Cost Recovery Fee, as well as registering and obtaining a permit from a Mount Rainier Wilderness Information Center, is required for climbing Little Tahoma.

Happy Solstice!