Sunday, June 23, 2019

Emmons-Winthrop Update 6/23/2019

Traverse between upper Emmons and Liberty Saddle at about 13,500'
Climbers have been braving lower freezing levels and steady winds to make the summit over the last weekend.  All the cold weather has been keeping the route in great shape.  A track log from Camp Schurman to the Crater Rim put the current route at 2.7 miles - REAL direct!

Track log from 6/23/2019
Getting to the top requires crossing crevasses (some big ones are right outside of camp!) so be sure to have your ascension skills dialed in case you fall in.  Don't be afraid to place 'running protection' when self-arrest might not be sufficient to stop your partner from dragging you into the crevasse if they fall in.  Many climbers have been placing pickets in steeper sections above crevasses and a couple of teams have even put in an ice screw or two on the firmer sections.

Personal rainbows could be found this weekend near Camp Schurman
With the approach melted out to Glacier Basin and less ideal surface conditions there's been a noted decrease in the amount of skiers total.  Lately, skiers have been stashing skis at around 11,500' near the top of the corridor and continuing on foot from there.  Icy sections, sun cups, and variable firm to unconsolidated snow have made for challenging ski conditions.

Typically the route begins to get more and more circuitous in July until it becomes too broken to ascend.  Line up a good weather window in the next couple weeks to hit prime time here on the Eastside!