Wednesday, June 19, 2019

Fryingpan Glacier - Little Tahoma Conditions - 6/18/2019

The Fryingpan Creek trail (Wonderland Trail) is snow free from the Fryingpan Creek Trailhead to the footbridge that crosses Fryingpan Creek.  The trail from there to Summerland is still partially snow-covered.  Rangers ascended the Fryingpan Glacier to K Spire on June 18th.  It appears that Little Tahoma has been receiving quite a bit of climbing traffic, judging by the numerous tracks across the Fryingpan Glacier to the notch above Whitman Crest. Below are a few pictures and observations:

In green is the approximate approach used by rangers to reach the Fryingpan Glacier.  This route is generally safer than the steeper slope on climbers left (red arrow).  The steeper slope features large and dangerous moats that are difficult to see when looking downhill and has contributed to glissading-related accidents in the past.  Avoid that slope. 
There is currently running water in several spots as you make your way up to the Fryingpan Glacier.  The glacier itself is in good shape, but there are areas with large and thinly-veiled cracks that present remarkably little surface expression.  It is highly recommended that parties rope-up on the Fryingpan and be prepared for crevasse rescue.  This is the time of year that crevasses are melting out and present the greatest 'trap door' hazard, especially when the snow is warm and soft.

A climbing ranger scoping out the Fryingpan Glacier with Little Tahoma, Mount Rainier, and K Spire in the distance.
The route that most parties have been taking across the Fryingpan stays high, just below Whitman Crest, and traverses a steeper slope that is subject to rockfall off of the Crest. It also runs parallel to several large crevasses.  Consider giving some thought to alternative routes rather than automatically traveling in others' boot prints.  A boot pack does not always indicate the best or safest route.  Regardless of the specific route taken over the Fryingpan, parties will at times be forced to walk in parallel to crevasses, so brush up on how to travel 'en echelon' to increase the security of your rope team.

The Fryingpan Glacier from the summit of K Spire.

Another view of the Fryingpan from the top of K Spire.
While rangers did not climb Little Tahoma on this patrol, they talked to several parties of climbers and skiers that did summit.  Overall, the route appears to be in great shape. Please remember to practice good Leave No Trace ethics in this zone.  As snow melts out on the lower meadows, stick to the trail or durable surfaces (snow, rocks) where possible to protect the fragile alpine vegetation.  And remember, payment of the Climbing Cost Recovery Fee, as well as registering and obtaining a permit from a Mount Rainier Wilderness Information Center, is required for climbing Little Tahoma.

Happy Solstice!