Thursday, July 11, 2019

Emmons-Winthrop Route Update July 8th, 2019






The Emmons-Winthrop route is in similar condition to the last post.  That being said, with the warm sunny weather as well as rain, the crevasses are opening up.

When departing Camp Schurman on your climb, there are two routes that leave camp.  The climber's right route takes climbers through a zone which has hollow bridges over crevasses, where the climber's left route avoids this hazard and maneuvers through a relatively benign crossing over a  small crevasse.

Climbers will have to manage a number of large, hollow crevasses when crossing from the football field to the base of the Corridor.  Move through this area with caution and spend adequate time assessing the condition of these crevasse bridges.

Once climbers reach 13,000', they are faced with a right hand route and a left hand route.  The left  hand route takes climbers directly under the burgshrund, then traverses to liberty saddle.  The left hand route also avoids weaving through hollow crevasses.

A few points for people planning on camping at Camp Schurman:

  • Spend time assessing tent sites around camp.  There are a couple large crevasses that are opening up very close to existing tent platforms.  
  • Please avoid camping on the rocks directly uphill from the ranger hut.  The National Park Service is trying to keep this area clear due to the proximity of the helipad.
Safe climbing!

Current route taking both Climber's left options.
Overview of current route

Looking up the Inter Glacier near Glacier Basin
Looking down at the approach to Camp Schurman from Camp Curtis
Moving through a crevassed area just uphill from Camp Schurman.
Thin bridge spanning a crevasse above 13k.
Route traveling parallel and directly over a crevasse above 13k. Note: this is taken from the climber's right track (notated in green on the photo.)  We recommend taking the climbers left route to avoid this and features similar.
Assessing to safely maneuver a crevasse bridge above 13k