Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 7/14/2019

With the recent mild weather conditions the Emmons-Winthrop route has stabilized and remains largely unchanged from recent reports. It is in 'classic' configuration much as described in guidebooks and the Route Brief published by the NPS.

A recent track of the Emmons-Winthrop. Note that small route variations are possible.

The route climbs out of Camp Schurman, ascends through Emmons Flats and traverses onto the Corridor at roughly 10,000'. There are several large crevasses that must be negotiated right out of camp and caution must be observed from the start.

Climbing the Corridor is fairly straightforward, however there are more crevasses opening there as well. At the top of the Corridor the route traverses to the Alpine Meadow and then switchbacks up to the start of the bergschrund at 13,100'. Along the traverse and through the switchbacks many more crevasses must be negotiated by either stepping across or end-running.

The theme of the route is lots of crevasses.

At 13,100' there are two options for overcoming the bergschrund. The main path (pictured below) traverses blow a jumble of seracs and crosses several large crevasses. There is an alternate solution that involves climbing another 100' uphill over the seracs before traversing to rejoin the other route.

Either variation is viable at this point. The lower is the most heavily used at this point but is slightly more risky.

Climbers utilizing running belays below the jumble of seracs.

Once the two variations join back together the route climbs to the northwest and after several steep false-summits gains the west crater. from there it is less than ten minutes to the true summit at Columbia Crest.

All in all it is an enjoyable route and with the forecast cool July weather it should continue to climb well for several weeks.