Emmons-Winthrop Approach 6/9/2019

Climber on the trail to Glacier Basin

The approach to Glacier Basin is beginning to melt out. There are lingering patches of snow starting at the 5,000' elevation, just past the Emmons Moraine Trail. The snow becomes continuous starting at 5,500' just before reaching Glacier Basin. Hiker traffic up and down has compacted the snow and made it easy to identify where the trail goes.

View of the Inter Glacier looking down from the Prow

The Inter Glacier has good snow coverage, and crevasses are not yet visible on the surface. The last storm cycle brought wind drifted snow depositions of   3" - 6" deep. The forecast is calling for a big warm-up, so expect to see soft wet conditions over the next few days. As the freezing levels rise to near 14,000' this week, be aware of changing conditions and the possibility of loose wet avalanches. 

The Lower Emmons Glacier below Camp Schurman

The bivy sites at Camp Curtis are melting out, with minimal fresh snow from the most recent storm on the ridge. The lower Emmons saw a similar amount of snow accumulation as the Inter Glacier, making for relatively easy travel conditions from Camp Curtis to Camp Schurman.

Climbers descending from Camp Schurman

Crevasses on the Emmons Glacier are beginning to open up. We have witnessed several climbers punch through close to Camp Schurman. This is the first portion of real glacier travel and parties should rope-up prior to making their final climb up to Camp Schurman on the Emmons. As these crevasses grow with the warm weather, the current boot track may not be the best route. Investigate crevasse crossings and be open to the option of walking around the end of the crevasse rather than over a thin bridge.  See you on the eastside!  Where the sunrise is early, and the sunset rolls down Curtis Ridge!

June on Rainier

We've had glimpses of summer over the last month with unusually warm temperatures in May, but winter is not ready to completely release its hold on the mountain. It's spring on Rainier, weather forecasts are fickle and freezing levels have fluctuated between 5000 and 13000 feet.

We've had a fair bit of snow and wind this last week on the upper mountain and temperatures are looking to rise rapidly over the next few days. Pull that avalanche gear back out of your winter gear stash, keep an eye on the forecasts (and take them with a grain of salt), and time your climbs appropriately. Be ready to assess and turn around if conditions call for it. With this snow and wind, many cracks that were opening up may have thin bridges hiding them again and still other cracks yet to open up or even give a hint of their whereabouts have taken more than one climber by surprise. 

And remember, make sure your team is ready to care for itself in these drastically changing conditions. We've had a lot of activity with search and rescues and close calls on the mountain these past couple of weeks. Your team's preparedness could save your life. It starts with your trip planning and preparation. Choose a route that is appropriate for your team's skill level, train up on your fitness and hone in your skills (e.g. glacier travel technique, crevasse rescue, wilderness first aid).  As you climb: manage your risk, maintain situational awareness, check in with yourself and partner(s). Remember that the summit is only halfway. If things aren't lining up, remember that the mountain will be there later. 

Mount Rainier can offer us an escape, mental and physical challenge, and solitude many of us crave. And it can be swift to remind us of the natural consequences the modern world has begun to shelter us from. Remember that and respect it.
 

Conditions Update - 6/02/2019

It has been a busy weekend on Mount Rainier. Climbers and skiers have been attempting many routes and generally have reported good conditions, albeit a bit warm with the 11,000-13,000’ freezing levels. Below are a few updates on conditions we have received in the past 24 hours.

Kautz Glacier: Most parties are approaching the route via the Wilson Gully and not The Fan. There are reports of running water at The Castle, but this has varied day-by-day, so plan to melt snow for water. Campsites are still almost entirely snow-covered at The Castle and Camp Hazard. The rock step has refilled with blown-in snow and is only a short downclimb presently. The upper pitches are thinly covered with snow (4-8”), making for fast climbing and readily attainable ice screw protection. At the Wapowety Cleaver crossing around 13,000’, there are a few ways of getting onto the upper Nisqually Glacier, but these have been changing frequently.

Fuhrer Finger & Thumb: Both of these routes have been skied and climbed in the last two days. The bergschrund is still quite filled-in for both lines, though it is starting to become tricky on the Thumb. Icefall from the Wilson Headwall has been reaching the altitude of the traverse from The Castle to the base of these lines, so watch overhead and move efficiently across this terrain. From the top of the couloirs, parties have reported that there is a well-established track with smooth snow surfaces through the upper Nisqually Glacier to the summit. Spontaneous, natural rockfall has been reported in both gullies.

Tahoma Glacier: Reported to be very broken around the 10,000’ level with very difficult navigation through many open crevasses.

Liberty Ridge: Parties report gaining the ridge on the climber’s right side at the bottom. Good travel conditions along the route up to the Black Pyramid, where a few hundred feet of knee-deep snow was found. The bergschrund has one short section of overhanging snow to navigate at the top. Ice screws were useful above Thumb Rock. Spontaneous, natural rockfall has been reported on the lower ridge and at Thumb Rock.

Gibraltar Ledges: The approach from Camp Muir to the ledges remains readily climbable with multiple options. The ledges proper are are fairly melted out with lots of exposed rock and some water ice. Above the ledges, the Upper Gib Chute is still snow up to Camp Comfort. Lots of evidence of recent rockfall along the route. 

Emmons Glacier: See this blog post

Ingraham Direct / Disappointment Cleaver: See this blog post

Ingraham Direct Route Update - 6/1/2019

Looking down the Ingraham Glacier from 12,000'

Guide services and independent climbers are still using the Ingraham Direct (ID) route to the summit of Mount Rainier.  6/2 UPDATE: THE GUIDE SERVICES ARE CURRENTLY TRANSITIONING TO USING THE DISAPPOINTMENT CLEAVER ROUTE.  THE ID WILL PROBABLY BE IMPASSIBLE IN THE NEXT COUPLE OF DAYS.  STAY TUNED FOR MORE INFORMATION. Multiple guided and independent parties reached the summit on Saturday.  The route is straightforward, going more-or-less straight up the Ingraham Glacier from Ingraham Flats camp and then heading slightly climber's left above Camp Comfort.  From there, it is a fairly direct ascent to the top.  The only notable feature to report is a couple of ladders at about 11,800 feet.  The lowest ladder is pretty short, but the second ladder is about 6 feet long over a large crevasse.  It's not for the faint of heart!  It is anchored with pickets and there are also hand lines on either side.  Consider clipping a tether with a carabiner (NOT prusik) to one of the lines as you cross, and/or belaying across or turning around if you aren't comfortable with the exposure.  As with any 'fixed' gear on the route that you did not place yourself, carefully assess its integrity before committing your safety to it.  Below are some pictures of the route.  For those looking to ski from the summit, the ID is not a great option right now due to the ladders and several other step-across crevasse crossings.  The Muir Snowfield is still skiing great, however.

The upper mountain from Camp Comfort.  The route does not go to Camp Comfort, it traverses above it.  

Looking up the Ingraham Direct route from above Ingraham Flats

The longer ladder at 11,800'.

ID track log from 6.1.2019

Emmons-Winthrop 5/29/19

View of Camp Schurman & Steamboat Prow from 11,000ft. 

Stormy conditions over Memorial Day weekend kept crowds to a minimum on the east side of Mt. Rainier but high pressure building over the week/weekend will undoubtedly bring many climbers to Camp Schurman and up the Emmons. As of 5/28, cloud caps, new snow instabilities and thinly covered crevasse bridges had kept anyone from the top of the route but multiple parties found success in the later part of the week.

A view of the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers from atop Steamboat Prow.

Memorial Day weekend storms dropped significant precipitation (up to 50cm) accompanied by strong winds that left the route blanketed in snow and many crevasses covered up by thin bridges. There were multiple incidents and reports of climbers punching through bridges that showed no evidence of their existence. As freezing level continue to rise throughout the weekend, climbers should pay extra attention to the boot pack they are following as bridges soften and crevasse fall hazards increase.

Teams leaving camp Schurman for the top.

Weather forecasts have been fairly accurate over the last few days calling for calm, clear skis in the morning and thunderstorms in the evening. Despite the ideal early morning and afternoon climbing weather, these thunder cells have grown rapidly and intensely as they move up onto the mountain by mid afternoon. Climbers should plan accordingly to be back off the route before these storms move in and should take head as they start to see signs of cumulus buildup.

A tracklog photo from Camp Shurman to the summit. Notice the route climbs
"the Corridor" on the Emmons Glacier before traversing north around 12,300"
in order to link up & ascend the Winthrop Shoulder. Again at 13,600" the
 route cuts climbers right towards Liberty Saddle and on to the summit.

Under current conditions, multiple routes to the top of the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers exist for those that are willing to route find on their own. The 'standard' route has been taking climbers up the corridor, across the Alpine Meadow, up the Winthrop Shoulder and traversing out towards Liberty Saddle. Slight variations will undoubtedly occur on a regular basis as last week's snow sees it's first major warm up. Climbers should stay heads-up on their climb, keeping an eye out for sagging bridges, holes in the boot pack and fissures on the snow surface. Sunny skies and moderate winds over the weekend will no doubt build for one of the better climbing windows of the 2019 summer season thus far!

Memorial Day 5/27/2019

Ski tracks with Mount Rainier in the background

Memorial Day

A day of remembrance. This holiday, originally known as Decoration Day, was created after the Civil War. Following World War II, the holiday gained favor from the public and was renamed Memorial Day in 1967.  This three day weekend is the unofficial beginning of the summer climbing season on Mount Rainier and mixes in a time for reflection with a change of the season.

View down the Winthrop Glacier

The climbing ranger staff takes time this weekend to remember our own rangers who have left us.  Phil Otis and Sean Ryan lost their lives during an overnight rescue on the Winthrop Glacier on Mount Rainier in 1995.  Nick Hall lost his life during an upper mountain rescue on the Emmons Glacier in 2012.  A Valor Memorial was constructed in Longmire to honor rangers who lost their lives at Mount Rainier while in the act of saving or rescuing others. The memorial can be found across the Nisqually River from Longmire, near the Community Building.

Winthrop Glacier with a view of the Puget Sound in the background

Wherever you find yourself this Memorial Day Weekend, take a moment to reflect.  The landscape and views around Mount Rainier can offer insight and perspective to memories, and hopefully be a place to create new ones full of wonder and awe.  

If Mount Rainier is your destination remember to check the local forecast and park website for  road openings. This can be a busy time of year for park visitation and entrance stations are working hard to keep traffic lines to a minimum. Park Webcams are another good way to see current conditions. Have fun, say safe, and be kind to your neighbor.