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| Looking down the Ingraham Glacier from 12,000' |
Guide services and independent climbers are still using the Ingraham Direct (ID) route to the summit of Mount Rainier.
6/2 UPDATE: THE GUIDE SERVICES ARE CURRENTLY TRANSITIONING TO USING THE DISAPPOINTMENT CLEAVER ROUTE. THE ID WILL PROBABLY BE IMPASSIBLE IN THE NEXT COUPLE OF DAYS. STAY TUNED FOR MORE INFORMATION. Multiple guided and independent parties reached the summit on Saturday. The route is straightforward, going more-or-less straight up the Ingraham Glacier from Ingraham Flats camp and then heading slightly climber's left above Camp Comfort. From there, it is a fairly direct ascent to the top. The only notable feature to report is a couple of ladders at about 11,800 feet. The lowest ladder is pretty short, but the second ladder is about 6 feet long over a large crevasse. It's not for the faint of heart! It is anchored with pickets and there are also hand lines on either side. Consider clipping a tether with a carabiner (NOT prusik) to one of the lines as you cross, and/or belaying across or turning around if you aren't comfortable with the exposure. As with any 'fixed' gear on the route that you did not place yourself, carefully assess its integrity before committing your safety to it. Below are some pictures of the route. For those looking to ski from the summit, the ID is not a great option right now due to the ladders and several other step-across crevasse crossings. The Muir Snowfield is still skiing great, however.
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| The upper mountain from Camp Comfort. The route does not go to Camp Comfort, it traverses above it. |
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| Looking up the Ingraham Direct route from above Ingraham Flats |
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| The longer ladder at 11,800'. |
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| ID track log from 6.1.2019 |
