Ingraham Direct Update: June-uary

Stormy weather enveloped the upper mountain last weekend putting a damper on climbing.  Rangers at Muir weathered high winds, deep snows, and cold temperatures over the last 5 days. A break in between storms Monday allowed rangers to climb to Ingraham Flats, where debris from natural avalanches were observed on the upper Ingraham Glacier at approximately 12,500 ft.

High winds transported the new on the upper mountain.

High winds on the upper mountain transported the new snow and created isolated wind slabs on many aspects.  By Tuesday, a brief warming period helped stabilize the recently transported snow, and several parties reached the top.  Remember to bring avalanche rescue gear including a beacon, shovel, probe, and the knowledge of how to perform partner rescue with this equipment.  These tools are critical pieces of equipment for climbing the mountain when snow is in the forecast.  With more showers in the forecast this week, don't forget to take a GPS track from Paradise to Muir on the way up.  This track can be followed down from Muir if clouds roll in and visibility becomes poor.

It is unusual for the Ingraham Direct to still be a viable climbing route this late in the season. Expect things to change rapidly with warm temperatures next week with a likely shift onto the Disappointment Cleaver.

Emmons-Winthrop update - June 7th, 2018

Rangers were last at Camp Schurman the previous weekend (June 3rd) and observed only two teams climb the route due to stormy weather and an obscured boot track.  Over the week, several guided parties have also successfully climbed the route, and reported the route to be in ‘good shape’ and following the same general path as before.

Note that there is currently a special weather warning from the NWS for this weekend...COLD AND WET WEATHER IS EXPECTED IN THE MOUNTAINS...Snow levels will likely fall to between 4000’ and 5000’ elevation and several inches of snow are forecast, with summit winds approaching 50 miles per hour.  

https://alerts.weather.gov/cap/wwacapget.php?x=WA125AA9DD8874.SpecialWeatherStatement.125AA9EAF5F4WA.SEWSPSSEW.2538f733fe2cf9adde2f3cf717f821a9

This implies that there may be new avalanche hazard, and that route finding on the Emmons-Winthrop route could be very challenging for those not intimately familiar with the route.  Good skills with all forms of navigation tools will be essential, even after the storm.  Of note, if you’re planning on climbing any of the north-side routes (Liberty Ridge/Ptarmigan) be aware that the typical descent route (i.e. the Emmons-Winthrop) is NOT easy to on-sight, especially post-storm since any boot-track on the upper mountain quickly fills in or is blown away...Be sure sure to have a good sense of the route, especially on your descent, and don’t assume that just because there’s a boot-track, that it’s going where you want to go. We see numerous parties each year that accidentally descend to Camp Muir instead of Camp Schurman. Don't let it happen to you. 

So wait it out, and then get out on the mountain, as it’ll be a clean slate after this storm cycle!  It will be a great opportunity to truly feel the grand scale and remoteness of the mountain if you get a chance to ‘set’ the route!

Special Weather Alert for the Weekend June 9, 10

The National Weather Service has issued a Special Weather Statement for this coming weekend. Please pay attention to the latest weather forecasts as the weekend approaches.

Ingraham Direct/Disappointment Cleaver Conditions June 6th

The preferred route up from Camp Muir is still The Ingraham Direct (depicted in orange on the map below).  

There are currently two routes kicked-in from Camp Muir to Columbia Crest.  The Ingraham Direct that had been the primary route for the past month or so has seen some glacial movement within the past couple of days.  The guide companies have decided to kick in a route on the cleaver in case a bridge in the Ingraham Ice-fall collapses.

The Dissapointment Cleaver route is slightly longer and involves travel over rocky areas which has the potential for rockfall if multiple parties are descending at the same time.

Above 12,700', the route is largely unchanged except for a crevasse bridge at 13,800' that fell through this week (seen in the picture below).  These bridges, though large stable, have the potential to collapse at any point.  We recommend parties keep their rope tight while navigating these crevasse crossings.  It is not a good idea to stop or take breaks on these bridges.

With the route becoming busier as the summer season progresses, there are a couple of notes that we want to touch on.

Stay as a group, and stay roped up while on the upper mountain.  Don't leave anyone parked on the side of the mountain while the rest of the group heads up to the summit.  If one team member cannot continue, the entire group needs to descend.

Be heads up for rock and ice fall.  With more and more climbers on the route, this hazard will increase.  Wear your helmet for the entire climb.

If your party is moving quicker than another party and you wish to pass, wait to do it in a safe location.  Don't try to pass while on steep icy terrain of over a crevasse bridge.

Stay as a group when descending from Camp Muir to Paradise.  We have had a number of parties get separated recently.  Use the gps track that you took on the way up if you encounter poor visibility on the way down.  This counts for the upper mountain as well.

Remember, everyone is here for the same reason.  Be courteous, and enjoy the climb.

A large bridge crevasse bridge that recently fell through, resulting in a short re-route.

Upper spine of the Dissapointment Cleaver

Ingraham Direct. Notice parties descending the ID, as well as traversing from the base of the cleaver.

July-like conditions.

Looking towards the "backboard" from the "Nose" of the Cleaver.

Looking uphill from the nose of the Dissapointment Cleaver

Cleaver route is depicted in purple. Ingraham Direct route is depicted in orange.

Considerations for Skiers

A skier descends the Kautz Glacier.

 

The Rangers have observed a marked increase in skier traffic on the upper mountain in recent years. This has coincided with a significant increase in accidents involving skiing. We are compiling data in order find common errors that skiers make that get them in trouble. We hope to use these cautionary tales to prevent future accidents.

 

One constant observation that the rangers have made is that the basic approach to risk management is often skewed in skiing parties. It is often assumed that since skis spread one's weight out over a large surface area then they are a safer method of travel on glaciers. This may be true for flat valley glaciers but on the steep terrain near the summit the opposite is often true. The extra weight and awkwardness of skis makes the endeavor more challenging and requires more attention paid to risk management.

 

Another area of concern for rangers is the willingness of parties to climb one of the standard routes to access a steeper, more remote descent objective. This may be physically less challenging but it robs the skier of the ability to assess conditions on the ski objective and to identify hazards on the ascent. Dropping in to an unknown, unseen route automatically increases the risk of the endeavor substantially.

 

Individuals considering a ski attempt on Mount Rainier should possess significant previous experience skiing on glaciers and at altitude. While no other Cascade volcano possesses the same degree of challenge for the ski mountaineer, it is imperative to have experience skiing on other peaks like Mount Baker and Mount Adams before coming to Mount Rainier.

 

Here are some considerations if you are planning a ski trip on Mount Rainier.

 

Team Selection

This is the most important factor to consider when planning a trip to Mount Rainier. The vast majority of terrain on Mount Rainier can be classified as “no fall” territory. Although ski falls may be common and insignificant in a ski resort, all falls on the upper mountain are serious. Simply losing an edge can easily cascade into an unstoppable slide into an open crevasse. Reverting to side-slipping or falling-leaf technique, rather than linked turns, can help maintain control of your ski descent.

 

If anyone in your party has any doubt of their ability to safely ski the route, you must be willing to communicate that and revert to appropriate roped glacier travel techniques.

 

Successfully completing a ski descent of Mount Rainier requires individuals and teams who are competent in a broad spectrum of mountain skills. Mountaineering, glacier travel, rope techniques, navigation, and expert-level downhill skiing skills with a heavy backpack are the bare minimum.

 

Route Selection

There is no easy way to ski from the summit of Mount Rainier. All routes feature complex glacier travel, steep skiing, and long sections of no-fall terrain. Commonly attempted routes include: Emmons-Winthrop, Fuhrer Finger, Kautz Glacier, Success Couloir, and Ingraham Direct.

 

There are many excellent ski descents on the mountain that minimize exposure to crevasses, ice and rock fall, and high altitude. Descents of the Muir Snowfield, Van Trump Snowfields, The Turtle, and Inter Glacier all serve as a nice introduction to the challenges of skiing on Mount Rainier.

 

One Day vs. Overnight Trips

An increasing number of teams opt for single day attempts; these require exceptional fitness levels. We see many teams that begin their attempt together but slowly get spread out across the mountain. This is unacceptable. It is crucial that team members remain within verbal and visual communication at all times. If one party member needs to stop or descend, the group should do the same. Do not leave anyone alone on the mountain. Consider a multi-day attempt so that you can begin your summit attempt rested and focused for the strenuous day ahead. Overnight trips also present better opportunities to time your descent for optimal conditions.

No matter which strategy your party chooses you must register for your climb and pay the climbing fee. More information on that process can be found here.

 

Weather & Avalanche Conditions

Since professional avalanche forecasts are not issued during the summer months, snow stability must be assessed by the team before entering avalanche terrain (most of the upper mountain). Late season storms often deposit feet of snow and produce slab avalanches. Even small amounts of snow spread out on the volcano can rapidly drift into wind slabs.

 

When signs of instability are present, the best course of action is to descend immediately from your current location rather than trying to outsmart the avalanche problem. It only takes a small amount of moving snow to knock you off your feet and push you into places that have serious consequences.

 

Snow Surface Conditions

This is probably the hardest variable to predict when planning a ski descent of Rainier. Snow conditions vary widely across aspect and elevation. The upper mountain rarely features smooth snow surfaces that could be defined as “good” skiing – it is commonly “survival skiing” up high. The surface above high camps is frequently a mix of breakable wind crust, very firm wind packed snow, ice chunks, sastrugi, and refrozen snow. Expect to ski “bad snow” for some or all of every descent.

Furthermore, it is rare that a ski descent does not require some down climbing. In many cases the decision to transion to crampons and ice axe for a short down climb can be a life-saving event. You must expect that you will need to take off your skis, rope up and climb down intermittently.
 

Just because you’ve read reports of good ski conditions on south side routes, don’t expect the same on other aspects of the mountain. The east and north sides of the mountain are commonly weeks behind in the melt-freeze cycle transition into corn snow. This means that routes like the Emmons and Fuhrer Finger have vastly different conditions on the same day. Don’t be afraid to walk downhill rather than skiing in difficult conditions.

 

 Glacier Conditions

As the season progresses, all potential ski descents become more challenging as crevasses open and more ice is exposed. The trend in recent years has been to attempt ski descents earlier in the season to help mitigate these hazards, though this brings increased risk of avalanches, challenging navigation, and more hidden crevasses. Regardless of when a descent is attempted, always ensure that you can see to the bottom of the slope you are on. Convex rolls often hide crevasses on their downhill side.

 

All parties on foot should be roped up to help protect against glacier hazards. This means transitioning from skiing to booting (or skiing to booting) should be done after roping up and spreading out the team. The greatly reduced surface area of boots compared to skis greatly increases the likelihood of crevasse falls.

 

Technical & Rescue Considerations

All parties must be competent in crevasse rescue. Every member should wear a climbing harness at all times in the event of a crevasse fall. Carrying two ropes affords a greater safety margin in the event that the person carrying the only rope falls into a crevasse. Many crevasses are deeper than 100 feet, so carrying two ropes per team that are each longer than 40 meters is recommended. Each party member should have enough supplies to construct a rescue anchor, rappel into and ascend out of a crevasse, and execute a haul system. All other mountaineering equipment should also be carried, including crampons, ice axe, helmet, navigation, and survival gear.

 

A ski descent of Rainier can be one of the most rewarding experiences for a competent party but it can quickly turn disastrous for the unskilled or unprepared. The fact that descending on skis is so much faster than on foot allows skiers to get off route and into problematic terrain all that more quickly. Proper planning and a high degree of caution is a prerequisite for a successful ski descent of the mountain.

 

 

Trashing Camp Muir

Last weekend was busy one with climbers, skiers and day hikers converging at Camp Muir. The public shelter is a resource for backcountry users to take refuge from the environment and is open year-round.

It appears that a bag of trash was left in the shelter and other users came in and filled it up with more trash and other unwanted items. Some very kind climbers helped out the rangers by carrying down a large portion of the discarded rubbish. We really appreciate that kind of effort.

Please respect the public sheltler, Camp Muir, the National Park and wilderness in general and pack out all of your trash, extra food and fuel. This is a high use area and it does not take long to really 'trash' the place.