Friday, June 15, 2018

Ingraham Direct Update: June-uary

Stormy weather enveloped the upper mountain last weekend putting a damper on climbing.  Rangers at Muir weathered high winds, deep snows, and cold temperatures over the last 5 days. A break in between storms Monday allowed rangers to climb to Ingraham Flats, where debris from natural avalanches were observed on the upper Ingraham Glacier at approximately 12,500 ft.

High winds transported the new on the upper mountain.

High winds on the upper mountain transported the new snow and created isolated wind slabs on many aspects.  By Tuesday, a brief warming period helped stabilize the recently transported snow, and several parties reached the top.  Remember to bring avalanche rescue gear including a beacon, shovel, probe, and the knowledge of how to perform partner rescue with this equipment.  These tools are critical pieces of equipment for climbing the mountain when snow is in the forecast.  With more showers in the forecast this week, don't forget to take a GPS track from Paradise to Muir on the way up.  This track can be followed down from Muir if clouds roll in and visibility becomes poor.

It is unusual for the Ingraham Direct to still be a viable climbing route this late in the season. Expect things to change rapidly with warm temperatures next week with a likely shift onto the Disappointment Cleaver.