On Wednesday, May 16th, climbing rangers ascended the Gibraltar Ledges route from Camp Muir and descended via the Ingraham Direct. Mild temperatures and minimal wind made for good climbing conditions, even though visitors at Paradise saw only glimpses of the mountain through the marine layer clouds. The standard route from Camp Muir ascends to Ingraham Flats, then continues straight up the Ingraham Glacier and upper Nisqually Glacier to the crater rim.
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| The Ingraham Direct route from Camp Muir. |
The most heavily crevassed area on the route is between 11,500 and 11,800 feet on the Ingraham Glacier. Remember to keep the rope tight between you and your partners when crossing crevasses over snow bridges. At 12,200 feet, the route trends climber's left towards the top of Gibraltar Rock and Camp Comfort. From there, the route follows a fairly direct path, occasionally end-running larger crevasses on the upper glacier.
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| Descending above Ingraham Flats. |
The guide services have marked the route well with wands. Disappointment Cleaver collected a lot of snow last winter (right side of photo above) but there is currently no boot pack going up the Cleaver.
Rangers found decent climbing conditions on the ascent up Gib Ledges. The route is still mostly snow covered at this time, although several sections of loose rock exist. Be aware of rockfall and move quickly under Gibraltar Rock. The snow on the ledges was quite firm, with a little verglas; necessitating careful cramponing.
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| Gibraltar Ledges |
If you plan on climbing this weekend, be sure to check the
Mt. Rainier Recreational Forecast. A dynamic weather pattern will persist through the weekend and into next week. Be sure to carry a GPS and be proficient with navigation in the event that weather deteriorates during your climb or the trip to high camp. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (formerly the Climbing Information Center) is open this weekend and issuing climbing permits--stop by before heading up the mountain. Climb safe and have fun!
