Thursday, May 09, 2019

Gibraltar Ledges May 8, 2019

Looking back towards Camp Muir and the ledges along Gibraltar Rock
As the high pressure and sunny skies continue to dominate the region this week, climbing rangers had an opportunity to climb Gibraltar Ledges. Once the original guided route up the mountain, “Gib” Ledges is still an engaging and direct route to Camp Comfort and onto the summit. Due to it’s S/SW aspect however, the snowy ledges that make the route viable quickly melt out each season. Based on conditions encountered by rangers this week, the route may melt out sooner rather than later with the continued warm weather.

Easy, albeit firm, early morning booting up and across the Cowlitz Glacier will gain you the south saddle at the base of Gibraltar Rock. From here, the route is fairly straight forward as you traverse west along the base of Gib Rock. Climbers should be cognizant of overhead rockfall and exposure to steep, firm slopes below. As you work west towards Gibraltar Chute and the Nisqually Icefall, the exact route may vary slightly depending on snow coverage. As upper Gib Chute comes into view, the route towards Camp Comfort will become clear. Snow in the steeper pitches of the chute was wind packed and made for easy booting. Two pitches of running belays had rangers to the top of the chute and up to Camp Comfort without issue. Although only one tool was necessary for ascending the softer surface conditions, two tools or ice screws may be warranted if the snow becomes firm or icy. From Camp Comfort, the route easily ties back into the wanded Ingraham Direct for quick travel to the summit.
Finishing off the 2nd pitch of steep terrain in Gibraltar Chute
For those climbers looking to attempt an alternate or simply direct route to the top of Mt. Rainier, Gibraltar Ledges is an enjoyable and engaging option. Route finding, moderate belayed climbing and exciting exposure make this a great option for those looking to put their mountain skills to good use. As snow continues to melt out on the ledges, climbing security diminishes and rockfall hazards increase so an attempt sooner rather than later may be prudent. Climbers can also get a good visual on the Gibraltar Ledges while driving up to Paradise and ascending the Muir Snowfield. If you’re fortunate enough to get on this route before it melts out, it’s sure to be a worth while endeavor!

Track Log of the route linking up with the Ingraham Direct above Gibraltar Rock