Fall has arrived, and with it, changes are in the wind. Climbing and skiing on the upper mountain is now a true wilderness experience, as all route adjuncts (ladders/ropes/protection) have been removed. Expect that there will be some difficult route finding, even on the standard Disappointment Cleaver Route, due to no wands or boot pack now that the guide services have wrapped up for the season. All crevasses will have to be end-run or crossed via a snow bridge.
Any summit attempts this time of year should be considered a serious venture - it's not the time of year for parties to attempt the mountain for the first time. All parties must be self-reliant and should be capable of self-rescue. There will not be guides on route nor regularly scheduled rangers at the high camps. Expect solitude.
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| Looking down upon a sea of clouds. Hikers traveling to Camp Muir should be prepared to navigate in near white-out conditions on any given day. A dedicated GPS app (and knowing how to use it) is an essential piece of equipment! Also, both ice and cracks are present this time of year. |
For parties planning on hiking to Camp Muir - the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains CLOSED. It will remain closed until the Park Service can finish up remodel/maintenance projects. The NPS expects to reopen the shelter by October 2026, however visitors should confirm the status of the shelter at a ranger station.
Climbing Permits are still required for traveling (skiing or climbing) on Mount Rainier above 10,000 feet or on glaciers.
ALL CLIMBERS/SKIERS MUST:
1. Pay the climbing fee (starting in 2026 this is no longer an annual fee, pay for each climb/ski)
2. Obtain a climbing permit (also need a permit for each climb/ski)
You can pay the fee online at Pay.Gov and you can obtain a permit via self-registration at Paradise and at the White River Ranger Station. Please remember to check out after your climb by submitting your climbing permit back at the ranger station after your climb. See the blog post below for more details on registration now that it's the "winter" season.
These moments of transition from late summer to the start of winter add extra hazards. Thinly covered crevasses, new avalanche problems, longer storm cycles and colder temperatures can all add up to dangerous conditions. Please use extra caution in any winter climbing or skiing attempt. And, while it can be rewarding to have solitude up high on the mountain, please do it safely!
Have a great winter and see you next spring!
