The Disappointment Cleaver continues to provide favorable climbing conditions, with many parties successfully reaching the summit over the past week. Guide teams have been hard at work maintaining the climbing route and installing or adjusting fixed adjuncts as glacier conditions continue to evolve.
Muir Snowfield
The Muir Snowfield remains in typical late summer conditions.
There are small crevasses beginning to show on the upper snowfield as well as sections of blue ice.
As a reminder the Public Shelter remains closed until further notice, while ongoing renovation and constructions projects continue.
Upper Mountain
At ~11,200’ (High Crack), climbers will encounter a double
ladder with wooden planks installed across the rungs.
Parties are encouraged to limit time spent in the
section immediately before getting onto the cleaver (the bowling alley) due to
significant rockfall hazard from above.
Above the cleaver, the route ascends several steep
switchbacks where deep Penitente’s have developed on either side of the boot pack, creating a pronounced trough. Several parties have reported that this
section provides awkward crampon work, particularly during the descent.
At ~12,800’, the route has been re-routed climber's left of
the previous track. Shortly above, at ~13,000’, climbers will encounter another
double ladder crossing equipped with wooden planks, two fixed handlines, and
fixed pickets on both sides of the feature.
 |
| Double Ladder ~13k' (Photo Taken 8/24/26 curtesy of RMI) |
Above this crossing, the route traverse's hard climber's
right toward the Emmons Shoulder before continuing higher.
As is typical this time of year, remnants of previous
climbing routes remain visible. Old boot packs are particularly noticeable near
the 12,800’ re-route, with several additional old boot packs above the traverse
toward the Emmons Shoulder.
Recently, multiple parties have reported getting lost when they accidentally followed an old boot pack. The most obvious path is not always the best choice. Parties are encouraged to slow down, look for wands if present, and record a GPS track, to help make sure they are on the path they want to be on. Snow bridges, ladders, and the best path to climb can change rapidly as glacier conditions evolve.
Fixed Adjuncts
Things including ladders, handlines, and pickets, are installed by the guide services, these features are not maintained by the National Park Service, and conditions can change significantly between inspections. Climbers should inspect any fixed adjunct before relying on it, warming temperatures among other factors may alter its security within hours or days.
Equipment and Planning
Conditions on the upper mountain continue to change. Snow
bridges may weaken or collapse, and sections of the established route may
require re-routing with little warning.
Snow pickets are an essential piece of climbing equipment. Not
only are they essential for crevasse
rescue, but they may also be needed for running belays, protecting exposed traverses,
belaying across deteriorating snow bridges, or constructing anchors if the
route changes unexpectedly.
