Seeking an escape from the smoke covering much of the Pacific Northwest, climbers and day-hikers alike are enjoying the fresh mountain air at Camp Muir and beyond. The Disappointment Cleaver route is holding up and many climbing parties have successfully summited as we enter the late-summer climbing season. Sunny weather and calm winds have made for pleasant climbing conditions, however precipitation and cooler temperatures are expected to arrive later in the week.
The main hazards associated with this time of year include:
Overhead hazard from rockfall and icefall
Thin snow bridges
Exhaustion and dehydration
Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route
The Muir Snowfield:
Do your best to avoid trampling fragile alpine vegetation by staying on trail or snow as you ascend from Paradise.
Some people may find foot-traction, such as micro-spikes or crampons, useful with the current snowfield conditions. The amount of bare glacial ice visible on the snowfield will increase as the season continues.
Use caution when glissading down the snowfield due to exposed rocks, cracks in the ice, and water running beneath the snow.
Camp Muir:
The Public Shelter remains closed for construction.
There is no running water at Camp Muir.
Ravens have been aggressively tearing into people’s trash–keep your camp tidy.
Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route:
The route remains reasonably direct and efficient for this time of year. Review the previous two DC blog posts to gain context on how the route has been evolving. Much of it remains the same.
Remember to rope up just past Camp Muir, as you are immediately on the Cowlitz Glacier. There has been active rockfall across the Cowlitz from Gibraltar Rock and Cathedral Rock so move through this terrain efficiently.
The guiding services mark the route with wands that reflect headlamps. Two wands next to each other often signal a change in direction (switchback) or re-route. Wands often fall over (especially on the Cleaver), so have a backup plan if wands are not visible. Use critical thinking and navigational tools, such as a GPX file and mapping app.
Past Ingraham Flats, the High Crack ladder remains in place. There is a traverse from High Crack across to the Ice Box and Bowling Alley area, where periods of rockfall have been observed. To manage your team’s exposure to rockfall, plan to take breaks in areas of less overhead hazard and then move quickly when traveling underneath any rock. There is still a viable route on to the Cleaver itself, with a hand-line for climbers to use for balance-only. Avoid clipping into this hand-line.
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| The High Crack Ladder |
The DC itself is fully melted out and it primarily involves rock travel. Remember to use careful footwork and don’t let your rope drag on the ground through this section; avoid sweeping rocks down on parties beneath you. The uphill party is responsible for mitigating this avoidable rockfall hazard. If you’re concerned about kicking rocks down on other parties, simply stop moving and wait for the area below you to be clear of people before you continue. Communicate and be patient.
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| Travel on the Disappointment Cleaver is mostly on rock. |
Above the Cleaver, the route passes several glacial features and traverses climber’s right around 12,800 feet. There are several switchbacks and sections with fixed pickets to protect exposed areas. Please leave all equipment (like carabiners) on the pickets where you found them. Snow bridges over crevasses may weaken with warmer daytime temperatures so be prepared to navigate around crevasses or protect crossings with pickets and/or a belay. There is a wooden board that serves the same purpose as a ladder above 13,000 feet. The route ascends steadily to the Crater Rim–but remember: the summit is only the halfway point. Reserve enough energy, food, and water for the journey back down.
Additional Information
There is an active fire near Grand Park in the northeast area of the park. Sunrise Road and White River Road to SR410 are CLOSED until further notice. All trails originating from these park roads, and all trails in the Grand Park area, are also closed until further notice. Updated 8/9/2026.
https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/fire.htm
A climbing permit and Payment of the Climbing Cost and Recovery Fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on Mount Rainier National Parks Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm. Remember to Leave No Trace on the mountain (and in the Camp Muir Public Shelter).
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| The Grand Park 2 Fire is visible from the Cleaver. |
