The Disappointment Cleaver route has held up nicely through July. Guides have done an amazing amount of work to keep the route climbing smoothly. As August arrives on the mountain so can smoke and heat. Please make sure to hydrate (not just water, but salts/electrolytes too) and be cautious of your respiratory system during periods of poor air quality.
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| See the climbers just past the old serac fall debris. Don't linger on this traverse. |
The route is mostly unchanged from the last update. From Camp Muir the boot pack crosses the Cowlitz Glacier and ascends Cathedral Gap. The section near Cathedral Rocks has mostly melted out and climber's should use extra caution here as they ascend/descend - it can be tricky walking on rock with crampons on. Take your time and use your ice axe or trekking pole as a third point of contact. Same goes for the Cleaver itself - it's almost all melted out and 99% rock travel.
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| The Disappointment Cleaver is almost all melted out for the season. |
Getting onto the Cleaver has been in good shape. The snow bridge that climbers accessed the Cleaver with this last weekend was large and supported. As the temperatures rise and things continue to melt keep an eye on this entrance/exit on and off the Cleaver - the snow bridge in place now won't last forever. The moat between the Cleaver and Ingraham has started to yawn open and has provided a bit more protection from falling rock. Remember to move efficiently and not to stop and take breaks in areas prone to rockfall - limit your exposure. Plan ahead and take a break before and after these more hazardous areas.
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The entrance onto the Cleaver. Note all the rocks on the snow. Don't linger on this traverse. |
From the top of the Cleaver climbers have ascended almost straight up before traversing briefly to climber's right around 12,800 and then making their way back towards the Crater Rim. Average climbing times have still been fairly reasonable. The route hasn't gotten too circuitous. Check out our Route Brief for the Disappointment Cleaver for more information and suggestions. Happy August!
