Climbing permits are required for all people traveling on glaciers and/or above normal climbing high camps (~10,000 feet). Solo climbers are required to apply for a separate permit. Camping also requires a wilderness permit.
Currently, there are several ways to obtain the various permits needed, depending on when you plan to climb.
The climbing permit fee can be paid for online here.
Self-Registration will occur from May 18 to May 21. There is a self-registration booth located inside the hallway of the Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC).
Walk-up permits are available on May 15, 16, and 17. Beginning on Friday, May 22nd, the PWIC will be open every day. Their hours are 7:30am to 5:00pm. Wilderness permit reservations (for camping) can also be made on recreation.gov.
Muir Snowfield and Camp Muir
Alongside rapidly changing conditions on the upper mountain, the Muir Snowfield is in a transitional state between winter and summer. Climbers, hikers, and skiers need to be prepared to handle various types of weather and travel conditions.
There is patchy snow the entire way up the Snowfield. Pebble Creek is the highest place to access drinking water on the way to Camp Muir, however a water purification method is strongly recommended and the creek may be frozen during cold temperatures. Please stay on trails or snow whenever possible to protect fragile alpine vegetation.
The route to Camp Muir is not clearly marked and requires mountain-travel skills including strong white-out navigation abilities, using GPS. The Snowfield is bordered by consequential, steep, glaciated terrain and can be difficult to navigate in poor weather and visibility.
Inclement weather will hit the area on Thursday (May 14) through the weekend. Expect high winds, low temperatures, poor visibility, and heavy precipitation. Snow levels are forecasted down to 3500 feet on Saturday. Avalanche hazard will increase; please monitor and submit all avalanche activity to the Northwest Avalanche Center.
As a reminder, the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed for the foreseeable future. Prepare to camp in winter-like conditions. There is an emergency radio located in the first restroom nearest the helipad and can be used to initiate a rescue response. Plan to be self-sufficient; rescues in winter-like conditions can take several days to respond to.
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| Looking up at the Muir Snowfield from Pebble Creek on 5/8/2026. |
Upper Mountain
See previous blog post for upper mountain route conditions. These conditions are changing with the storm and features like wands and crevasses will likely be buried under new snow and less obvious. Guide services are reporting a single ladder on the current route up the Ingraham Direct between 11600 feet and 11800 feet. Climbing conditions over the next few days (and potentially weeks) will require advanced mountaineering skills to mitigate hazards such as avalanches, extreme weather, and navigation in complex glaciated terrain.
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| The Ingraham Glacier on 5/8/2026. Gibraltar Rock can be seen on the left side of the photo and the Disappointment Cleaver on the right. |
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| Above the clouds from the flanks of Tahoma. |
