The mountain experiences a prolonged stretch of sunny summer weather and climbers continue to work up and down the Emmons route. With warming weather and softening snow, we have seen ice fall from seracs around the Emmons and Winthrop as well as significant continual rockfall from the Curtis ridge and upper mountain. That is all to say that warming temps are having an effect on the mountain.
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| 7/8/2025 - Inter Glacier |
Warm weather and long sunshine of high summer change the mountain daily, so today's route beta may be tomorrow's dead end. Climbers who attempt the Emmons-Winthrop route should come prepared for an unmaintained, wilderness glacier route which requires diligent navigation, careful crevasse-bridge assessment, and self-sufficiency in a remote, alpine environment.
Rangers noted a significant change in snow coverage on the inter glacier from the start of their shift to the end, with the entrance to the Emmons route becoming slightly more challenging. Accessing the Emmons Glacier from Camp Curtis has become increasingly difficult now that the moraine is mostly snow free, exposing steep, loose rock and dirt. Teams should be prepared to slow down through here, coordinate with other groups moving through this bottleneck, and watch for rockfall. Some teams have opted to use hip belays in the steeper sections of the trail here, however there are no good rock anchors to rely on. As a reminder, after crossing the moraine the final approach to camp Schurman is on the Emmons Glacier and climbers are encouraged to rope up for glacier travel. The boot pack crosses over several crevasses between the moraine and camp.
As of 7/9/25, the route remains in good condition and follows generally the same path as it has for the last couple weeks. The route has seen the most change between 11,400' and 13,000' as crevasses open and re-routing of the backpack occurs. This has led to several old, but well-established boot packs existing in this section that lead to dead-ends or less ideal crevasse-bridge crossings. Pay close attention through this zone and record a GPS track on your way up that you can follow back down to avoid wrong turns. When in doubt it, teams have reported that taking the lower boot pack option has been more successful if multiple trails are present.
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| 7/9/2025 - Emmons Winthrop |
