Overview
With the Summer Solstice now past us, climbers on the mountain were greeted with a small storm over the last weekend. What a way to start summer with fresh snow at Camp Muir!
New snow has since melted and climbers have since found good weather windows in their itineraries to attempt a summit. We are still in a transitional period here at Mount Rainier and any type of conditions can exist at any time. Always be prepared for wintery conditions even if just day hiking up the snowfield. Main hazards associated with this time of year include:
- Rapidly changing and unpredicted weather including winter snowstorms
- Overhead hazard from rock and serac fall
- Thinning snow-bridges over crevasses
Disappointment Cleaver Route
Hiking to Camp Muir:
On the way up from Paradise, please stick to the summer trail if it is melted out/snow free. If the trail is still buried, please follow NPS wands (markers) through the snow until gaining sections of melted trail. Please avoid trampling the fragile alpine wildflowers and vegetation.
The Muir Snowfield itself is starting its transition to a summer texture with suncups lining the entirety of its length. Skiers take note, do not expect smooth snow surface conditions if skiing/riding from Camp Muir.
Always be prepared to navigate to/from Muir in wintery whiteout conditions.
Above Camp Muir:
The National Park Service does not maintain the route; however, guide services on Mount Rainier do significant route-work and keep it well-marked with reflective wands. Thank a guide for their hard work! Several areas along the DC route have significant exposure to overhead rock and icefall hazard. Remember, if you look up and something can come down on top of your team, do not take a break there. Continue moving until no overhead hazard exists.
Above Ingraham Flats camp, local guide services rerouted High Crack to a more "classic" ascent. The route moves further climbers left of the old track and crosses higher on the slope then diagonals over through the ice box. Gaining entrance to the cleaver is still straight forward, though can always be a bottleneck if teams are traveling close together. The DC itself is fully melted out and teams should be expecting to travel on rocks to the top.
Above the DC, the route remains fairly "direct" switch backing up to the crater rim.
There are currently no ladders on the route. Remember, the mountain is a very dynamic environment and changes to the "route" can happen within hours. Guide services anticipate a ladder to be placed at the 12,800 crevasse when necessary. There are several pickets on the upper mountain that are maintained by guides. Use this running protection at your own discretion and please do not remove the carabiners or equipment. Complex crevasses exist throughout the route with snow-bridges to navigate through. If climbing/descending in high freezing levels or warm afternoon temperatures, be observant for any snow-bridge sagging or significant changes in route conditions.
Skiing on the upper mountain would be quite bad due to surface conditions. Penitentes are peppering upper slopes and make holding an edge extremely difficult. A fall would be consequential due to exposure and crevasse openings.
Kautz Report from an independent party:
The main Kautz Ice Chute has sections of bare, exposed ice up to potentially 2 full vertical pitches. Expect traveling through large penitentes after the rock step and throughout. Parties should be carrying ice screws with them for protection.
Remember, Mount Rainier is a dynamic environment and can host winter storms any time of year. Always check the weather forecast before your climb and never completely rule out the possibility of severe weather/winds affecting your climb.
Additional Information
- The Public Shelter at Camp Muir will be closed for maintenance improvements from July 7 - September 30 2025. The shelter will remain available for emergency use only. Climbers camping at Muir should plan on bringing and sleeping in tents at Muir after July 7.
- Remember to Leave No Trace throughout your entire visit to Mount Rainier National Park.
- A climbing permit and payment of the annual climbing fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on Mount Rainier National Parks Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm.
