Winter Season

First - the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains CLOSED. It will remain closed until the Park Service can finish up the remodel and get the equipment out of the structure.  In the case of an emergency, please call 911 and access can still be granted for emergency situations.  

Conditions on the upper mountain have changed - a thin blanket of new snow now covers the skeletal glacial ice and rocky ridges above high camps.  Unsettled weather for the next couple days will continue to add snow to the upper mountain and make conditions difficult for any summit attempt.  During this winter off-season there are virtually no other climbers on the mountain.  Guide services ceased operations weeks ago, and rangers are only sporadically staffing high camps for end-of-season projects.  

Any summit attempts this time of year should be considered a serious venture - it's definitely not the time of year for parties to attempt the mountain for the first time.  All parties who climb this time of year should be self-reliant and carry extra equipment so that they have contingency resources.

ALL CLIMBERS MUST:

1. Pay the climbing fee

2. Obtain a climbing permit

You can pay the fee online at Pay.Gov and you can obtain a permit via self-registration at Paradise and at the White River Ranger Station.  Please remember to check out after your climb by submitting your climbing permit back at the ranger station after your climb.  See the blog post below for more details on registration now that it's the "winter" season.  

These moments of transition from late summer to the start of winter add extra hazards.  Thinly covered crevasses, new avalanche problems, longer storm cycles and colder temperatures can all add up to dangerous conditions.  Please use extra caution in any winter climbing or skiing attempt.  And, while it can be rewarding to have solitude up high on the mountain, please do it safely!

Have a great winter and see you next spring! 

Climber Self-Registration Begins September 11th

Where did the summer go? With the return of fall, operations and services at Mount Rainier will begin to decrease. Climbing Permits are still required through the fall and winter for traveling on Mount Rainier above 10,000 feet or on glaciers. Self-registration for climbers in Paradise begins Monday September 8th, 2025 and the Paradise Wilderness Information Center will close September 7th. There will be a self-registration box located outside the Old Ranger Station in Paradise. As winter approaches a large tunnel will be put in front of the door of the Old Station to keep the Self-Reg kiosk and stairs snow-free. Walk through this tunnel and find the self-registration box with instructions at the end of the walkway. This is open 24/7 for registration, even if no one is staffing it - follow the directions on the kiosk.

Self Registration is at the Paradise Ranger Station near the center of the photo.

Climbers can still register in-person (which we recommend) in Longmire and White River Ranger Stations. Check the park's operating hours and pay special attention to the date at which the operating hours change as we move into winter. The White River Wilderness Information Center will be staffed until October 9th, 2023. After that date, there will be a self-registration box on the outside of the Wilderness Information Center as well until the road closes for the season. The Longmire Wilderness Information Center will also close around then and move their operations to the Longmire Museum for the winter. 

There are two things required to climb in the off-season. The first is to pay the online Annual Climber Cost Recovery Fee. The second is to use the self-registration stations at Paradise or White River to fill out your permit. 

Filling out your self-registration permit completely will help any necessary search and rescue efforts - please take the time to get it right! The full list of instructions will be located at both self-registration stations. You will fill out a sheet (front and back) at the ranger station and leave it in the drop box, you don't carry the permit on you. Please remember when you get off the mountain to fill out the return slip at the station and put in the drop box as well to check out from the field. 

As summer turns to winter, our seasonal staff starts to migrate away from the mountain. High camps will only be staffed very occasionally, search and rescue operations will be delayed, and the park's exclusive-use SAR helicopter will be departing the park by late September. Please keep in mind that during the winters, there aren't rangers actively staffing the high camps to talk about conditions or weather. It is recommended that climbers are prepared to be very self-sufficient as any rescue efforts could take days! 

Disappointment Cleaver 9/8/2025

Welcome to September! 

As we move further into late summer season, conditions on the mountain have been rapidly transitioning from the snowfield to the summit.  Here's a quick run down on what's going on right now and into the winter on the mountain:

Muir Snowfield:

As stated in the previous blogpost, all parties headed up the Muir Snowfield should be prepared for sections of bare-ice, flowing water, and crevasses large enough to fall into. Please be ready with traction devices for footwear such as micro-spikes or crampons, trekking poles, and gloves. These icy and crevassed sections can catch people off guard if not properly prepared.  Be especially cautious if we get a fresh dusting of snow which can hide these hazards from view.  

Camp Muir:

Remember that the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed through September, and all climbing parties will need to bring their own tent/shelter.   This makes conservative decision making during stormy weather important - there's no backup shelter to retreat to during lightning storms.   

Significantly sized crevasses have opened up in camp and continue to grow with warm temperatures.  This makes finding a campsite at Camp Muir difficult.  Please plan on camping on the snow, double check that your site doesn't have crevasses underneath and isn't prone to rockfall, and bring a shovel or adze to flatten out the tent site.  The crevasses near Camp Muir are now large enough a person can certainly fall in.

Please travel around camp with caution - there's been active rockfall on the ridges around camp and the danger of an unroped crevasse fall cannot be overstated.  

Disappointment Cleaver Route:

The upper mountain swiftly moves into "late season" conditions with significant crevasse, serac fall, and rockfall hazard throughout the route. 

All three guide services AAI, RMI and IMG have officially ceased guiding operations for the season, citing deteriorating conditions at the Cleaver entrance and upper route as the primary factors for this decision.  They've pulled all of the route adjuncts - no more ladders, hand lines or "fixed-pickets" are in place right now.  This means that any independent climbers must be prepared to navigate around large crevasse openings and prepared to protect steeper loose rock steps.  

The entrance on to the Cleaver has been the primary limiting factor for both guided parties and independent parties alike due to significant objective hazard. A widening moat between the Cleaver and Ingraham Glacier at 11,400 feet coupled with excessive rockfall and poor footing poses a risk decision that climbing parties must assess for themselves. 

Above the Cleaver, conditions have also continued to degrade without regular maintenance provided by the guide services. Independent teams should plan to navigate without relying on previously installed equipment and be prepared for complex route-finding and rapidly evolving hazards.  There will not be wands on the route marking a way to the summit.  

Late-season climbers should exercise heightened caution, assess conditions carefully, and have technical skills necessary for a truly independent and an unguided route. Good teamwork and conservative decision making are paramount for a successful trip on Mount Rainier. 

Dissapointment Cleaver 8/26/25

Muir Snowfield

Above Pebble Creek, the snowfield has many sections of ice exposed, flowing water, and small crevasses that are widening each day. Whether you are day-hiking to Muir or pushing for the summit, we recommend being prepared with traction devices such as micro-spikes or crampons to help increase your security when traveling on these firm and slick surfaces. 

Disappointment Cleaver

The general flow of the route is consistent with what it has been for the past few weeks. Some adjuncts have been removed (there is no longer a ladder at High Crack 11,400ft), and various ones have been added. Warm temperatures this past week have continued to change the upper mountain, and climbers should be prepared to manage hazards and conditions, including but not limited to:

+Rock and Ice fall

+Cravasse Fall

+Weakening Snow Bridges

+Glacial Ice

+Moats

+Navigational Challenges

+Changing Weather and Poor Visibility

A Path to the Summit on 8/26

There are numerous snow bridges that the route crosses on the Cowlitz as teams head up towards the gap. As always, when traveling on glaciers, it is highly recommended that parties stay roped up. 

The moat getting onto and off the cleaver right now poses some challenges as the glacier melts away from the rock, leaving thin snow/ice bridges and the overhead hazard of rockfall coming from the bowling alley above. Parties are encouraged to travel expeditedly when traversing towards the Cleaver to limit the time they are exposed to the rock and seracs above. 

Looking down on the moat from the Cleaver. *The black tongue of ice (center) was 3-6" thick when this photo was taken on 8/26

Looking up from the top of the Cleaver 12,400' (Taken 8/26)

Above the Cleaver, there are numerous Ladders, Planks, Fixed Pickets, and Handlines.  The guide services work hard to place and maintain these elements of the route on the DC. The National Park Service does not maintain these adjuncts. Parties are encouraged to inspect these items before they walk across them or clip their rope team to them. Consider hammering in fixed pickets that may have melted out and/or placing your own protection. 

A plank bridging a cravasse at ~12,500' (Taken 8/26)

Taken at ~12,550' on 8/26

Ladder at ~12,600' (Taken 8/26)

Taken at 12,700' on 8/26

The above zone at ~12,700' has some of the more notable overhead hazard exposure on the route currently. Be attentive to where your team stops along the route and avoid spending more time than necessary in these zones. 

Ladder and Snowbridge at 12,600' (Taken 8/26). *Many parties are opting to use the snowbridge on the downhill side of this double ladder. 

Photo showing surface conditions above ~13,400ft (Taken 8/26)

Remember that the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed through September, and all climbing parties will need to bring their own tent/shelter.   

Muir Snowfield Conditions 8/22/25

 The Approach to Camp Muir is snow free until Pebble Creek. While you are enjoying the wildflowers, and wildlife please stay on the trail to minimize impact on our sensitive meadows.

Above Pebble Creek, the snowfield has sections of ice exposed, flowing water, and small crevasses that are widening each day. Whether you are day-hiking to Muir or pushing for the summit, we recommend being prepared with traction devices such as micro-spikes or crampons to help increase your security when traveling on these firm and slick surfaces. 

Looking up from 7,600ft (taken 8/21).

@ 9,150ft (taken 8/21)

@ 9,150ft (taken 8/21)

Crevasses @ 9,450ft (taken 8/21)

Crevasse with a weak snow bridge @ 9,450ft (taken 8/21)

The iciest sections of the snowfield are currently above ~8,600ft. In general, staying climbers right when ascending have the most favorable conditions and some parties have opted to gain the rock for better traction. 

As always, please take good note of conditions while you are ascending and make a plan for how you want to descend. 

Disappointment Cleaver 8/17/25

As we transition into the late-summer climbing season, the conditions on the Mountain are becoming more dynamic and the Disappointment Cleaver Route is changing daily, from the Muir Snowfield to the summit.

A strong weather system moved through Mount Rainier National Park starting 8/14 and lasted through 8/16. This brought close to 3" of water at Paradise, snow above 12,000' and extreme winds. The mountain has been experiencing continued strong winds with low lying clouds throughout the last few days. Looking at the extended forecast we may see a return to seasonally warm temperatures by the end of the week. 

Snow on the Cleaver 8/17/25

The storm brought an unknown amount of snow to the upper mountain - with this change the guide-maintained route is no longer established. Wands exist throughout but as of 8/18/25 - there is no beaten in route above the cleaver. Guide teams are working to reestablish their route. A team summited on 8/18, with a few others reaching various elevations around 13,000' since. The bulk of changes to the DC route have occurred above the Cleaver itself, for an in-depth update on the route from Paradise to the Cleaver - reference the last blog post. 

Several Inches new snow around 13000' - 8/17/25

The change in conditions has by no means rendered the DC route unclimbable, however it introduces more considerations when thinking about a summit attempt. Firm conditions exist above the Cleaver with new snow obscuring some of the surface expression making identifying crevasses potentially more challenging. Two ladders exist on route currently, one at high crack and one around 12,400' after the traverse from the top of the Cleaver. 

A ladder on the traverse from the Cleaver to the Emmons Shoulder - 8/17/25

Three ways to consider mountain hazards apart from weather are:

• Falling into the mountain: As always, crevasse hazard is present on the mountain. Climbers will encounter a few ladders throughout the route as it exists right now. Above the Cleaver, parties should anticipate a multitude of crossings and implement appropriate risk management strategies.
• Falling off the mountain: With the most recent storm, snow surfaces above the cleaver have become smooth, firm and more planar. The potential of taking a long sliding fall is a real risk with climbing conditions as they are above the cleaver. Appropriate protection and competent movement skills is paramount.
• The mountain falling on you: Climbing rangers noted increased rockfall through the bowling alley, potentially due to increased moisture from the recent storm combined with freeze thaw. Stay alert to any amount of overhead hazard and choose break locations to limit exposure.

Climbers traverse back towards the Cleaver 8/17/25

The Approach

The approach is snow-free from Paradise to Pebble Creek, with abundant wildlife, wildflowers, and free-flowing water. The Muir Snowfield has some sections of bare ice and flowing water, which may pose a hazard in cool temperatures when the surface freezes and becomes slippery. Be prepared to use crampons or micro spikes if freezing levels are forecasted to be around 10,000 ft.  Cracks are beginning to emerge on the snowfield with patches of ice becoming exposed. Keep eyes open and follow an appropriate route.

New crevasses are opening up left and right at Camp Muir, so use caution when setting up your tent and remember that once you step off of the rocks at camp you are on the Cowlitz Glacier. Consider probing your campsite and use careful footing when traveling from camp to your tent, especially at the interface between rock and ice where hidden cracks exist. 

Crevasses at Camp Muir 8/9/25

Other Considerations

The public shelter remains closed for renovations with the emergency radio now residing in the bathroom closest to the Helipad. As the climbing season moves into the latter part of August rangers have seen a wide array of preparedness on the mountain. A small daypack - or no pack at all is likely not enough gear to safely climb Mount Rainier. Additionally, not wearing helmets while climbing is ill advised. 

Disappointment Cleaver Route Update 8/12/2025

 Overview

As we transition into the late-summer climbing season, the conditions on the Mountain are becoming more dynamic and the Disappointment Cleaver Route is changing daily, from the Muir Snowfield to the summit. 

A steady period of high pressure ended with precipitation on Wednesday, 8/6, bringing low amounts of snowfall to the upper mountain and heavy rain from Camp Muir and below. This was followed by increasingly warm and dry conditions, with the freezing level hovering well above the summit at 16,500’. 

Moving into the second week of August, temperatures are forecasted to drop, along with an increased chance of precipitation. These unstable weather conditions will occur more frequently as the region transitions into autumn. During this dynamic part of the climbing season, the main hazards include: 

• Rapidly changing weather conditions

• Crevasse falls due to changing snow surface conditions

• Overhead rock and ice fall

Approaching Ingraham Flats with Disappointment Cleaver in the background on 8/9/25

Disappointment Cleaver Route

The approach is snow-free from Paradise to Pebble Creek, with abundant wildlife, wildflowers, and free-flowing water. The Muir Snowfield has some sections of bare ice and flowing water, which may pose a hazard in cool temperatures when the surface freezes and becomes slippery. Be prepared to use crampons or micro spikes if freezing levels are forecasted to be well below 10,000 ft. 

New crevasses are opening up left and right at Camp Muir, so use caution when setting up your tent and remember that once you step off of the rocks at camp you are on the Cowlitz Glacier. Consider probing your campsite and use careful footing when traveling from camp to your tent, especially at the interface between rock and ice where hidden cracks exist. 

Crevasses opening up at Camp Muir.

An unlucky climber punched a leg into this crevasse unintentionally on 8/9/25.

The same location as the photo above, just two days later, had increased in size and appeared to be 15' deep on 8/11/25.

The Cowlitz Glacier crossing has more crevasses opening up along the route, so use the appropriate rope length spacing when ascending and descending this section. We’ve seen several parties traveling very close together when descending after a long climb, but don’t get complacent on the descent when snow conditions are likely the warmest and bridges are weakest. 

Dunn’s Roll, just past Cathedral Gap, is an area of active rockfall and potentially confusing navigation, especially when traveling in the dark. Look for wands and avoid lingering anywhere that rock debris is strewn across the route. 

A clear, starry night at Camp Muir. Headlamps can be seen scattered across the Cowlitz Glacier and Cathedral Gap (8/9/25).

On the Ingraham Glacier, the High Crack ladder is still in place, followed by several snow-bridge crossings. Move quickly through the Ice Box and Bowling Alley, especially if parties are traveling on the upper Disappointment Cleaver when your party is below them. Strategically plan your breaks/rests by choosing areas with less overhead hazard and account for traffic along the route. 

The Disappointment Cleaver itself remains unchanged: use careful footing to avoid kicking rocks on parties below you and keep your rope up off the ground by shortening the rope interval between climbers.

From the top of the Cleaver, looking right at the "new" traverse (8/9/25).

The route has recently experienced the most change above the Disappointment Cleaver. From the top of the Cleaver, there is a new traverse to the north/climber’s right onto the Emmons shoulder. Look for wands and fresh boot-prints traveling up and right around 12,500 ft, immediately above the cleaver. The “old route” went directly up from the Cleaver and should be blocked with wands in an ‘X’, but note that these wands often fall over or become less visible. The traverse maintains a consistent elevation, and at roughly 12,600’, there is a double ladder set up at a ~25° angle. There is a snow plug just downhill from the ladder that is also a crossing option at the time of writing this update. Several fixed pickets exist around the ladder for protection.

The guiding services maintain the route and this equipment but it is available for public use; be respectful of this equipment and any guides you encounter on the route and in camp. They did a lot of hard work this week to get the new route variation in place, so thank them if you get the chance!

8/9/2025 Route Track

Looking up at the double ladder. Approx. 12,600'. The snow plug can be seen on the right hand side of the photo (8/9/25).

Looking down on the double ladder at 12,600 ft on 8/9/25.

From the ladder, the route travels up and then begins to switch back before the final ascending traverse to the crater rim (see photo of track). Again, keep a heads up on the descent for rapidly changing snow or weather conditions, assess every crevasse crossing and consider using techniques like belaying to get your party through terrain. Be safe, have fun, and we look forward to seeing you all out on the Mountain.

A climber traverses back to the top of the Cleaver on 8/9/25.

Additional Information 

More information on climbing on Mt. Rainier can be found on the Mt. Rainier National Park Climbing Page. Here, you will find information about how to pay the Annual Climbing Fee, obtain a Climbing Permit, and make reservations. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00.

Looking south from Camp Muir under full moonlight during the early morning hours of 8/11/25.

Camp Schurman -Emmons Winthrop Route Season Winding Down

While there are still a couple weeks of August left on the calendar, the summer climbing season on the camp Schurman side of the mountain seems to be winding down. The guide services wrapped up their last Emmons trip on August 7th and there have been few to no independent climbers in camp the last two weeks. The climbing ranger crew is beginning to winterize camp and focusing more on the Camp Muir-DC corridor as we head towards fall. Don't let this deter you from coming up to enjoy the Emmons side of the mountain, but climbers and/or day hikers to Camp Schurman should be prepared for a different experience this time of year.

The Emmons-Winthrop Glaciers from Steamboat Prow on 08/09/25

-The Inter Glacier has several long sections of exposed glacial ice and opening crevasses making travel much more technical. Be cautious with moats getting on/off the Inter and around rock outcroppings, running water and higher flow in creeks on warm days, and that a slip on the ice could lead to a very long fall. 

Looking down the Inter Glacier from below Camp Curtis. Note the several sections of exposed glacier ice

-Once camp Schurman is winterized, there will be no bathrooms open. We will leave a blue bag barrel out for the winter for 'deposits'. There is still potential for the heli-pad to be used so please do not camp on the pad. Crevasses are opening up close to camp so probe your tent site for cracks before setting up, and be diligent to rope up for glacier travel before moving out of camp; there are crevasses within 30' of some old tent pads.

-A permit is still required to camp in the wilderness, as well as the paying the Climbing Cost Recovery fee if you are climbing. The White River Wilderness Information Center near the White River Entrance will be open through early October so make sure to stop and in and say hi. 

-Climbers on the Emmons side should prepare for a remote, wilderness glacier climb, and transitioning fall weather/surface conditions on the upper mountain. Any remaining boot packs may be unreliable routes, and climbers should plan to route find their own way. Come prepared with the appropriate equipment and skill sets to manage long sections of exposed glacial ice, wide and marginal crevasse crossings, and potential for a circuitous route around unpassable crevasses. Additionally, do not expect to see anyone else on the route or at camp; you will be on your own and a rescue could take several days for anyone to reach you. 

The lower Emmons glacier in lean, late summer form

Thanks for a great summer at Schurman, enjoy the fall and winter. We look forward to seeing you all next summer!

Disappointment Cleaver Update 8/5/2025

 

August!?!?  Wow, the summer has flown by.  The Disappointment Cleaver Route has stayed in great shape these last couple of weeks and the cooler weather this week has kept upper-mountain conditions fairly firm.  Take a look a the last couple of Disappointment Cleaver Posts to get an idea of updated route details.  Also, check out the DC Route Brief for thorough information on climbing the route.  

The first stormy weather of August approaches the mountain this week, with upper level troughs passing over the park.  It's about that time of year where the long days of high pressure fronts are fading and checking the forecast becomes critical to the safety of any summit push.  

Remember that the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed through September and all climbing parties will need to bring their own tent/shelter.   

Disappointment Cleaver Update 7/29/2025

 Overview

It’s been a windy week at Camp Muir, but many parties have successfully summited the mountain. The Disappointment Cleaver route is in good shape and the weather for the upcoming week includes low to moderate wind speeds and several days of optimal climbing weather moving into August. Expect busy weekends at camp and on the route this time of year and consider the Emmons-Winthrop route as a less-traveled alternative. 

As a reminder, the Public Shelter remains closed for the season at Camp Muir so bring your own bivy/tent setup. 

Disappointment Cleaver

The walk up from Paradise is snow-free to Pebble Creek (where running water is plentiful, but make sure to have a water purification system). The snowfield is free from crevasses at the moment, and it's a good idea to make a GPS track of your ascent route in the event that whiteout conditions occur during your descent. At Camp Muir, it’s worth noting that there are no trash services on the mountain. Please carry your trash out and practice Leave No Trace principles.

Above Camp Muir, the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier where both rockfall hazard and crevasse fall danger exist - don't forget to rope-up and helmet-up right out of camp.  Cathedral Gap has lots of exposed rock, and just past Cathedral Gap on the way to Ingraham Flats there is some exposed firm glacial ice.  Take care while traveling on this ice - it's not steep, but a slip or trip would result in landing on a very firm surface.  There is a significant rockfall hazard here - move efficiently, but with deliberate footing, through this rocky and icy section just above Cathedral Gap and right below Ingraham Flats.  

Looking back on the Ingraham Glacier from the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. Climbers are traveling through the Bowling Alley in the center of the photo. 

The High Crack Ladder on the Ingraham Glacier, below the Disappointment Cleaver.

The route above Ingraham Flats Camp crosses a horizontal ladder before traveling through the Ice Box and Bowling Alley, where it’s important to move quickly to reduce your exposure to overhead hazard. Once on the Disappointment Cleaver itself, avoid kicking rocks down on parties beneath you by stepping carefully and not letting your rope drag. Above the Cleaver, the route switchbacks up to two additional horizontal ladders. During busy days on the route, please be extra courteous and communicate with other rope teams if trying to pass.  Consider stepping off the route and waiting versus trying to climb around with difficult footing. Traverse to the Emmons Shoulder above the ladders and ascend until the route wraps back toward the Crater Rim. If your party seeks shelter from high winds in a steam cave near the crater, please remember to pack out all of your trash (and we’d greatly appreciate it if you pick up any additional trash you notice in the area to keep the mountain clean!). 

Climbers navigate a ladder above the Disappointment Cleaver (seen in the right of the photo).

Climbers traverse an exposed section of the route. A handline is seen on the left.

Use caution on the descent with the warming temperatures typical for this time of year. Snow conditions are changing rapidly. Consider using techniques like belaying for sections of the route and remember that pickets are an essential piece of equipment for building snow anchors on this mountain; it’s recommended to carry two pickets per person. 

Additional Information 

Remember, practice Leave No Trace principals throughout your entire visit to Mount Rainier National Park. Do not litter in your national park. 

A climbing permit and payment of the annual climbing fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on the Mount Rainier National Park's Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm.

Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 7/27/25

The final weekend of July was perplexing at Camp Schurman. Temperatures were pleasant, winds were moderate, and the route to the summit was quite good; yet there were only a handful of climbers in camp each day. 

Conditions continue to progress towards late season norms, but all things considered, the Emmons-Winthrop route climbs well for this time of year.

Emmons-Winthrop route approximation (blue line) on 7/26/25

Route Description: 

Inter Glacier

After leaving Glacier Basin, and following the trail up the Inter moraine, stay climber's right and avoid the lowest snow patches. The Inter Fork of the White River is flowing under these lingering snowfields and the risk of punching through the snow and getting swept away by the creek are not worth taking. Follow intermittent climber's trails over rocky slopes until you arrive at the toe of the Inter Glacier.

Recommended travel line shown climber's right of the Inter Fork of the White River . Avoid the snow slopes with running water underneath (denoted by the X) photo: 7/27/25

Travel up the Inter Glacier remains straightforward and efficient. Clean running water is plentiful and easy to find on the numerous exposed rock islands along the way. There are no open crevasses or exposed ice along the climber's trail up the Inter Glacier. The snow is firm, and some folks may prefer crampons for the ascent.

Inter Glacier travel is quite good for late July - 7/27/25

Camp Curtis to Camp Schurman

This section still requires some downclimbing over loose and somewhat steep terrain with poor footing in order to access the Emmons Glacier. A great description and good photos of this section can be found in the previous Emmons blog post. Once the downclimb is complete, rope up, and follow the obvious climbers trail to Camp Schurman.

Camp Schurman to Summit

From camp, follow the obvious boot tracks up towards the Emmons Flats. Climbers will encounter some sections of exposed glacier ice shortly after leaving camp. The boot pack fades away here, but the navigation is mostly straightforward with some traversing to end-run crevasses. 

The established boot pack accesses the corridor higher than normal (an artifact from old ski tracks from early season). Rangers found a much better way to access the corridor on a solid snow bridge about 200' below the old trail. 

The corridor is sun-cupped and travel requires some French-technique with crampons to save energy. Near the top of the corridor, there are some crevasses popping out that will necessitate some back-and-forth traversing. When leaving the corridor, climbers will find some exposed glacier ice at the bridge that leads to the alpine meadow. This section requires some confident footwork with crampons.

Crevasses crossing near 13,300 ft (7/26/25)

Above the corridor, the route still has good snow coverage. The penitentes cause the trail to be troughed in some sections, but good travel is found off trail in places. The route zig-zags around some large crevasses here. Most notably at 11,900 ft, 12,200 ft, and 12,300 ft. The snow bridge at 12,300 feet is not difficult to ascend or descend but warrants a belay to cross. Rangers found that the ability to quickly lengthen the rope interval between the lead climber and followers greatly aided belaying across this crevasse with a picket anchor; both for the ascent and descent.

A Ranger descends on belay across the snow bridge at 12,300 ft (7/26/25)

The snow bridge over the 12,300 ft crevasse from above (7/26/25)

At 13,200 ft, the route begins traversing towards Liberty Saddle. From Liberty Saddle at 13,600 ft, parties can choose to continue up mostly on snow to the crater rim, or travel up gravelly slopes from 13,900 to the summit.

The traverse to Liberty Saddle (7/26/25)

Equipment

Because some sections of the route involve exposed glacial ice (albeit low angle) carrying a few ice screws is recommended to facilitate anchor building in these areas. The rest of the route is still snow, and picket anchors work very well. Parties should climb with a minimum of 4 pickets per group. Groups of 3 or more should carry at least 5 pickets. Every member of a climbing party should have the ability to build a snow anchor, and plunging an ice axe into the snow is not a viable plan. Ice axes with hammers are a good choice for the route in its current condition.

The Emmons-Winthrop route taken by Rangers on 7/26/25

Permits and Planning

More information on climbing on Mt. Rainier can be found on the Mt. Rainier National Park Climbing Page. Here, you will find information about how to pay the Annual Climbing Fee, obtain a Climbing Permit, and make Reservations.

On behalf of the NPS climbing staff: happy climbing, and we hope to see you at high camp!