Overview
It’s been a windy week at Camp Muir, but many parties have successfully summited the mountain. The Disappointment Cleaver route is in good shape and the weather for the upcoming week includes low to moderate wind speeds and several days of optimal climbing weather moving into August. Expect busy weekends at camp and on the route this time of year and consider the Emmons-Winthrop route as a less-traveled alternative.
As a reminder, the Public Shelter remains closed for the season at Camp Muir so bring your own bivy/tent setup.
Disappointment Cleaver
The walk up from Paradise is snow-free to Pebble Creek (where running water is plentiful, but make sure to have a water purification system). The snowfield is free from crevasses at the moment, and it's a good idea to make a GPS track of your ascent route in the event that whiteout conditions occur during your descent. At Camp Muir, it’s worth noting that there are no trash services on the mountain. Please carry your trash out and practice Leave No Trace principles.
Above Camp Muir, the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier where both rockfall hazard and crevasse fall danger exist - don't forget to rope-up and helmet-up right out of camp. Cathedral Gap has lots of exposed rock, and just past Cathedral Gap on the way to Ingraham Flats there is some exposed firm glacial ice. Take care while traveling on this ice - it's not steep, but a slip or trip would result in landing on a very firm surface. There is a significant rockfall hazard here - move efficiently, but with deliberate footing, through this rocky and icy section just above Cathedral Gap and right below Ingraham Flats.
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| Looking back on the Ingraham Glacier from the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. Climbers are traveling through the Bowling Alley in the center of the photo. |
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| The High Crack Ladder on the Ingraham Glacier, below the Disappointment Cleaver. |
The route above Ingraham Flats Camp crosses a horizontal ladder before traveling through the Ice Box and Bowling Alley, where it’s important to move quickly to reduce your exposure to overhead hazard. Once on the Disappointment Cleaver itself, avoid kicking rocks down on parties beneath you by stepping carefully and not letting your rope drag. Above the Cleaver, the route switchbacks up to two additional horizontal ladders. During busy days on the route, please be extra courteous and communicate with other rope teams if trying to pass. Consider stepping off the route and waiting versus trying to climb around with difficult footing. Traverse to the Emmons Shoulder above the ladders and ascend until the route wraps back toward the Crater Rim. If your party seeks shelter from high winds in a steam cave near the crater, please remember to pack out all of your trash (and we’d greatly appreciate it if you pick up any additional trash you notice in the area to keep the mountain clean!).
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| Climbers navigate a ladder above the Disappointment Cleaver (seen in the right of the photo). |
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| Climbers traverse an exposed section of the route. A handline is seen on the left. |
Use caution on the descent with the warming temperatures typical for this time of year. Snow conditions are changing rapidly. Consider using techniques like belaying for sections of the route and remember that pickets are an essential piece of equipment for building snow anchors on this mountain; it’s recommended to carry two pickets per person.
Additional Information
Remember, practice Leave No Trace principals throughout your entire visit to Mount Rainier National Park. Do not litter in your national park.
A climbing permit and payment of the annual climbing fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on the Mount Rainier National Park's Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm.
