Disappointment Cleaver Update 08/29/2024

An interesting lenticular cloud from the top of the Cleaver on 8/26

This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Within the past week, Rainier put on a weather show closer to the Fall season than a "typical" late August. Stormy weather and colder temperatures resulted in fewer climbers at Muir, however, with the anticipated sunny skies/calmer winds this week, numbers have steadily increased. 

Raven perched on boulder with Rainier in background

The Muir Snowfield continues to remain in great condition this August - no visible cracks have opened up and though the snow has been slick and consolidated with many melt/freeze cycles - there's no skeletal blue ice showing yet.  Trekking poles and shoe chains are advised for the slick sections.  Also - be careful of rocks at the end of many of the glissade tracks!  There's a couple of major snow chutes that folks have been sliding down which end in pointy rocks - be sure that you can see the end of any glissade track before launching down it. 

At Camp Muir, the NPS has demolition projects happening on a few obsolete bathrooms. Please respect the workspace of the NPS crews and give them ample room to work (for your safety and theirs). Cargo nets and bags full of trash from these projects are awaiting flights, so please leave these alone and know that they are not for sitting on! 

View of Ingraham Flats as seen from the top of the DC

Above camp there are no major changes to the existing routes aside from the Cleaver entrance addressed below. The lower freezing levels this past week have helped to keep a certain "status quo" on the upper mountain, at least for now. Precipitation on 8/23, 8/24, and 8/27 fell in the form of snow at camp Muir and above. Accumulation was roughly 2-4in however wind drifted snow can fill the suncup deposits on upper slopes several inches thick. Rangers did not observe any avalanche hazard from the recent snow events.

From Ingraham Flats, independent and guide teams are still climbing both the "classic" DC route as well as the Emmons Shoulder route that wraps around the cleaver. The entrance on to the actual Cleaver recently had rockfall fill in the existing moat that forms in late season. This means two things: 

1. The entrance on to the DC is relatively straightforward now crossing 10-15ft of talus and boulders to the other side.

2. The fact that this happened just goes to show how much significant overhead hazard exists! Please do not take breaks under any overhead rockfall OR icefall zones. 

One of the high-crack ladders

The DC has four ladder crossings currently. Two horizontal ladders at High Crack (~11,400 ft), one vertical ladder at ~12,800 ft, and one double length ladder at 13,200 ft. Handlines exist directly below and above the ladder at 13,200 ft. This zone directly above the Cleaver can have significant bottlenecks form under overhead serac hazard. We recommend that parties space out while climbing through this section as no good places to pass teams really exist until above 13,200 ft. Above this zone the route is relatively straightforward, working its way to the crater rim.

Double ladder at 13,200ft

Rangers this past week did not get a chance to climb the alternate route on the Emmons shoulder due to stormy weather. Reports are that there are still no major changes to this option. 

 Always inspect ladders, handlines, and anchors with your own judgement. Guide teams work very hard to ensure these adjuncts remain in working order, however, understand that the mountain is a dynamic environment which can result in rapid changes in surface conditions. The anticipated high freezing levels will send us back to "summer conditions". Be on the watch for more crevasses opening, sagging snow bridges, and overhead rock/ice breaking loose. Beat the heat by climbing on the early side and get back to Muir at a reasonable time.

DC Update 8/21/24

 

This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

A few climbing teams have been making it to the top of Mount Rainier despite the unseasonably cold weather and stormy skies.  The first snow flurries fell last week along with some major lightning storms adding to the wintry vibe.

The Muir Snowfield has been in great condition this August - no visible cracks have opened up and though the snow has been slick and consolidated with many melt/freeze cycles - there's no skeletal blue ice showing yet.  Trekking poles and shoe chains are advised for the slick sections.  Also - be careful of rocks at the end of many of the glissade tracks!  There's a couple of major snow chutes that folks have been sliding down which end in pointy rocks - be sure that you can see the end of any glissade track before launching down it.  

At Camp Muir there's not as many folks as there were in July.  A feeling of solitude has returned.  There's no running water at camp so be sure to bring a stove and plenty of fuel to melt snow.  You'll probably want extra coffee/cocoa/tea with these colder nights.  

Above camp there's not any big changes to the route.  The lower freezing level has sort of locked in the route and less changes have occurred since it's cooler up high.  Crossing the Cowlitz is still straight forward - there's more crevasses open, but they're all easy to navigate around.  Cathedral Gap has a very defined and well wanded route through it.  Just above the gap and below Ingraham Flats Camp there's a section of the route that's exposed to rockfall from Cathedral Rocks.  Don't linger underneath these rocky cliffs.  A good way to tell you're in a rockfall zone is that there's rocks littering the glacier around you.  

From Ingraham Flats there's two routes that have been commonly climbed in the last week.  One is the standard DC Route which ascends out of Ingraham Flats and traverses onto the Cleaver itself and then reaches the Crater Rim fairly directly above the Cleaver.  This route currently has three ladder crossings.  The other route that's been climbed traverses out from Ingraham Flats and goes below the Cleaver and ascends the Emmons Glacier to reach the Upper Mountain.  It ties back in with the standard route around 13,250 feet.  This route does not have any ladder crossings, but there's a steep section which ascends a snow ramp through a jumble of snow blocks where a fixed rope line has been placed to use as a hand-line for extra security.  See map below for the approximate route locations.  

Note that these are not the only two ways to the summit.  Like all great glaciated climbing routes on the Cascade Volcanoes, there's always multiple ways to the summit - and being prepared to find another way when a crevasse bridge falls away or the glacier shifts is an important skill to have!  

A last note of caution as we get closer to winter: Consider your contingency plan when the weather gets colder/stormier.  Helicopters and rescue teams cannot respond when weather conditions get too stormy; any small mishap (like a crevasse fall, losing a glove, twisting an ankle, getting hit by a rock, etc.) can become a dire situation in a storm.  Make sure you consider your self-rescue plan when climbing up into conditions that can prevent outside rescue resources from helping you!

Disappointment Cleaver Update 8/12/24

 

August 12th, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Since the last route update on 8/2/24 Mount Rainier has experienced seasonably warm temperatures with a brief spell of rain up to 12,000 feet on 8/9/24. There has been little that has changed on the route other than that existing snow bridges are continuing to thin. Additionally, there are now two boarded ladders above Ingraham Flats.

There is a section with fixed rope leading to a ladder at 12,800ft and a double ladder at 13,200ft. Both of these places are causing bottlenecking. One strategy to alleviate congestion is to coordinate with other climbing teams in order to space out. If a backup is observed at these sights, consider waiting at a location above or below these sites that are free of overhead hazard while teams make their way through.

Photo of the portion with a ladder at 12,800ft as seen from the top of Disappointment Cleaver. Note the three climbers, the top one is on the ladder.

For specifics on the climbing route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct. Climbers should check in for their permits at the Paradise Wilderness Information Center, which is open seven days a week from 7:30am- 5pm. Also, please be sure to check out after completing your climb. 

Emmons-Winthrop Update 8/8/2024

Overview:

Approximate line of the Emmons-Winthrop Route as of 8/4/2024

As of 8/4/2024, the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier route still follows the general path of the 7/30/24 route update, Mount Rainier Climbing: Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 7/30/2024, however this week's heat has started taking its toll and conditions are quite dynamic along the standard route. Climbers attempting the Emmons side of the mountain should expect a higher technical bar for successful climbs and be prepared for:

• Belayed rope techniques for steep snow/ice and marginal crevasse-bridge crossings, including ability to build anchors in snow and ice  
• Careful crevasse-bridge stability assessment, both in cold-firm and soft-warming conditions
• Route finding in complex glaciated terrain, and preparedness for significant re-routes as current route conditions deteriorate 
• Increasing travel over blue ice as snow continues to melt out

Route Highlights:

Currently, the route has multiple crevasse crossings that are in marginal condition, and any one of these falling out could lead to significant re-routes. Be prepared for the possibility of a bridge crossed on the ascent having fallen out by the time you return on the descent. Have a plan to deal with this, such as an alternate route, or rappelling past the fallen crevasse bridge. Hedge your margins and plan your climbs to avoid being on the upper mountain midday when bridges are weakest in the heat, and ice fall is more prevalent. Additionally, set hard turnaround times that have you back at camp early, leave you with some extra gas in tank to deal with unexpected obstacles, and stick to that plan. Here are the major obstacles along the route as of 8/4:

• Series of 5-10' wide crevasses when gaining the corridor near 10,000' with thin, undercut bridges
• The corridor has several patches of exposed glacial ice up to 30 degrees steep that the routes ascends through, and vertical crevasses that parallel the boot track
• Two large crevasse crossings near 11,500' at the top of the corridor. The second of the two crossings is 30-40' wide and the bridge is precariously stacked with significant fall potential - a belayed crossing is recommended. 
• Near 12,000' is a 15-20' wide crevasse with a similarly precarious bridge crossing, a belay is recommended here as well
• ~12,400' where the route gains the Winthrop Rib is a widening crevasse with multiple thin, undercut bridges. End running this crack maybe possible down and climber's right. 
• 13,500' just before the route gains the Liberty Saddle is a long serac followed by an exposed step up and over a thinning bridge

11,500' crevasse bridge crossing

For those expecting a more typical glacier walk, this year's summer climbing season maybe winding down on the Emmons-Winthrop, however, make no mistake, the mountain is still very climbable and multiple options routes for those with a higher technical skill set and the intrepidness to explore Mt Rainier's largest glacier in deep summer. 

Emmons-Winthrop route track 8/4/2024

Disappointment Cleaver Update 08/02/2024

Route Overview:

The current route is in the same location as our route update on 07/28. The route is standard from Camp Muir to the top of the Cleaver, currently with no adjuncts. The route then goes direct from the top of the cleaver toward the summit. This takes climbers through a steep section of snow that ends in a single vertical ladder at 12.8k. There is a handline and pickets for running protection. As always, inspect these pieces of "fixed gear" before using them. Expect this section to change rapidly, especially with this prolonged period of high freezing levels. Below shows images of this section.

Topping out from the ladder, the route weaves through crevasses for a few hundred feet before approaching the traverse under a large crack at 13.2k that leads to the double ladder. This traverse is exposed to another section of overhead hazard, with a 'tidal wave' feature of sagging snow that hangs above in places. The route then ascends the double ladder that has fixed pro above, and a hand-line along the ladder. It continues through a steeper section that levels out around 13.5k, and continues to the summit. 

Takeaways and Messaging:

With warmer temperatures, we are seeing increased rockfall, ice fall and weakened snow bridges. If you plan to attempt a summit climb, returning back to terrain with minimal overhead hazard by 10am is advised - it's never great to be out on the upper mountain during the heat of the day. As always, move efficiently through these sections of objective hazard - don't stop for water or an equipment change below loose rock.  

The 'tidal wave' feature requires the same efficiency. This is an area of bottlenecking as climbers wait for their turn on the double ladder. Coordinate start times with other teams to minimize the potential for bottlenecking on the route, but if a line does form, wait out of the overhead hazard before your turn.  Also - consider looking for an alternative to the double ladder.  Glacier climbing requires looking beyond where others have gone before and finding the best path forward for your party.  Sometimes, that's turning around.   

If your party decides to use the double ladder, it requires 30ft of rope spacing between team members to ensure there aren't two people on the ladder at once. 

It is recommended to increase your team security to through these steeper sections, using a belay, fixed pro, prussiks, etc. The DC is in a more 'technical' state than normal. Proficiency with cramponing and increasing team security is required in the section between 12.8k-13.2k. 

Do not remove any equipment found on the route - and again - don't assume that any equipment found on the route is safe to use!  Inspect all route adjuncts and decide whether to use them or not - there's always another way! 

For a broad overview on the traditional climbing route, please reference the NPS route briefing packet-Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct