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| A little wild fire haze in the sky |
The past week saw a number of climbers make successful summit climbs on the Disappointment Cleaver route. Conditions on the Disappointment Cleaver route are continuing their march into the late climbing season with more rock exposed and dwindling snowpack. The overall location of the route remains the same as previous weeks, but small route changes and ever thinning crevasse crossings are requiring climbers to remain alert.
As the climbing season wears on, expect the continued use of ladders and planks to stitch together a summit route. Currently ladders are being installed at High Crack just above Ingraham flats. The Ladder at 13100' has been re-positioned to a vertical orientation. A wooden plank has been added at around 13500' and fixed pickets for a running belay exists a 13800' crossing.
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| The route runs primarily along the spine of the DC. |
The Disappointment Cleaver is over 90% rock and travel on it has proven challenging for a number of parties. To ease your time on the cleaver shorten the rope distance between the members of your climbing party while ascending and descending. This makes moving up the lose rocky terrain significantly easier and reduces the chance of causing rockfall.
Cooler weather predicted for the weekend will help hold the mountain together as the 2022 climbing season continues into September.
