Let's get the big question out of the way: YES, you can still climb Mt Rainier
via the Disappointment Cleaver route, but it's not as straightforward as it
was just last week.
So what has changed? As of 8/14 the concession guide services (RMI, AAI,
IMG) have decided that they are no longer going to support the current route
from Ingraham Flats to the top of the Disappointment Cleaver. It is the guide
services, not the NPS, that construct and maintain the DC
route including ladders, fixed protection, shoveling etc. This route work is
done for their clients and the climbing public has the benefit of getting to
follow along. As a consequence, the first ladder on the route (just above Ingraham Flats) across "High Crack" has been removed. A bypass exists above High Crack, however, that still provides access
to the Cleaver. This route is slightly steeper, icier, and moderately difficult.
Potential route for bypassing the "High-Crack"
Once at the cleaver, parties will have to negotiate an area of
recent rock fall and scree. This is a highly exposed zone with recurring rock
fall and the reason that the guide services have elected to re-route. The risk
here is significant for large groups moving slowly, but may be acceptable for smaller teams that are nimble on rock while wearing crampons. Avoid waiting for other
parties in the rockfall zone, and move through as quickly as
possible.
New rockfall and the current access route onto the Disappointment Cleaver.
The route above the Cleaver to the summit remains the same as previous posts with another ladder in-
place at 13200ft.
place at 13200ft.
Today 8/16, a large group of guides are heading up to rework the route with completion TBD. As a new route is put in place we will try to provide updates. Happy Climbing!
