Camp Schurman has been busy. Warm temperatures and sunny skies have made for pleasant climbing conditions this week. As August begins, climbers are noting rapidly changing conditions on the route.
From Camp Schurman to the Emmons Flats: Open crevasses running in all directions are beginning to make travel more circuitous. At Emmons Flats there is still enough room on the glaicier to pitch your tent, but you'll be a stone's throw from open crevasses.
Emmons Flats to the Corridor: straightforward, with multiple options for gaining the Corridor.
The Corridor: open crevasses crisscross the corridor in many places. Climbers should evaluate the strength of crevasse bridges as they cross them; especially during the heat of the day. Overall, travel on the corridor is quite good for early August.
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| Looking into the depression at 11,500 ft. |
The Corridor to Winthrop Shoulder: just beyond the Corridor at 11,500 feet lies an interesting feature. A huge depression has formed where the ice between two crevasses has sunken into the glacier. This feature, also known as a plug, is where climbers have been travelling to access the alpine meadow. The uphill portion of the plug is unsupported below and showing signs of instability evidenced by stress cracks cutting through it. Below is a photo of this feature from above; the route cuts right through the center of the cavity.
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| The 11,500 ft depression from above. Note the detached upper edge of the snow bridge. |
Rangers noted the cracks in the bridge had widened significantly in the few hours it took to climb to the summit and descend back across the feature. Consider using running belays or belaying party members across unstable features bridging crevasses.
Around 11,800 feet, the old boot pack trends climber's left towards another crevasse with a small unstable bridge. Luckily, this can be avoided by travelling climber's right and slowly descending to a much better crossing at 11,700 feet. After crossing this crevasse, straightforward climbing leads up the Winthrop shoulder.
Winthrop Shoulder to Liberty Saddle: switchbacks meander up the shoulder until 13,000 feet. Here, the boot pack heads climber's right towards Liberty Saddle. The travel here is obvious and gradual.
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| The route towards Liberty Saddle from 13,400 ft. |
Liberty Saddle to Summit: textured snow and penitentes guard the last 800 vertical feet to the crater rim. Some large crevasses near Liberty Saddle are easily crossed on large snow bridges.
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| The final pitch from Liberty Saddle to the Crater. |
Inter Glacier Update: Snow has been melting fast from the Inter. Several crevasses have opened up as well. Crampons might be necessary in some places, and roping up may be a good idea too. Remember to take care while descending or glissading to check blind roll overs for open crevasses lurking below.
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| Upper Inter Glacier from Mt. Ruth. |
