Thursday, August 20, 2020

Emmons Winthrop & The Inter Glacier Approach - August 17th

Both the Inter Glacier and the Emmons are becoming harder to navigate as we move into late August.  The Inter Glacier approach has a fair amount of ablated ice exposed and warrants the use of crampons, ice-axe, climbing helmets, ropes and crevasse rescue equipment.  Due to late season conditions, be anticipating a more complex ascent to Steamboat Prow or Camp Curtis.

The Emmons route generally follows the route described in the previous post, with the addition of more thinly bridged crevasse crossings & plugs.  Be cautious while maneuvering these features and be anticipating the need for implementing belays to cross them.

The climbing route up the Emmons has been more involved as we transition into late season.  With this being said, anticipate your climb taking longer than it typically would early season.  This coupled with the elevated freezing levels, leaves the possibility for climbing parties in a position to find themselves on the upper mountain late in the afternoon in rapidly warming snow conditions and decompensating snow bridges.  Try to employ the use of a strict turn around, and do your best to stick to your itinerary.

Climb safe!



Looking down onto the Inter Glacier from Ruth Ridge


Looking at the Emmons-Winthrop from the top of Steamboat Prow



The view of crossing from the Corridor to the Alpine Meadows


Crossing from the Upper Alpine Meadows to Liberty Saddle




Looking from Liberty Saddle down towards
the Emmons and the Alpine Meadows