Thursday, June 18, 2020

A Clean Canvas!

As of June 18th, there have been no summit attempts made by anyone, public, rangers, or guides!  No routes have been established.  There are no climbing adjuncts (ladders, wands, trail shoveling, etc) in place anywhere on the mountain.  Expect complex decision making in untouched glaciated terrain. 

Rangers have been at high camps.  Approximately 6-8 inches of new snow was deposited on Monday with steady transport winds (S x SW) leading to wind slab development leeward of ridgelines and some cross-loaded slopes.  A minor avalanche cycle occurred on mid-elevation slopes Tuesday and Wednesday as steeper slopes shed with solar input.  Higher elevation slopes that were observable from the Muir Snowfield and Paradise area did not appear to undergo a significant shed-cycle, but with the significant warmup forecast through Friday, one should expect an increase in avalanche and cornice hazard as well as potentially challenging travel conditions on the upper mountain.  


* The Emmons Glacier from Camp Schurman.

With the removal of the closure to the public on the upper mountain, expect a SLOW increase of traffic through high camps and on the upper mountain - the start of normal guiding operations will still be delayed and total numbers of climbers will be reduced during this phase.  Regulations and high camp quotas have changed - please read the description in the previous blog post below for the details.  Expect some more conditions updates soon as rangers and public begin to adventure on to the upper mountain.