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| Looking up at the route from just above "Dunn's Roll." |
The DC route contains several areas with the objective hazard of rock and ice-fall. Climbers attempting Mt. Rainier should be able to identify such areas and move swiftly through them to minimize the risk of injury. Here are some of the notable areas along the route with such hazards, in ascending order:
(1) Gaining Cathedral Gap from the Cowlitz Glacier. There was a significant rockfall event in this area in May, and there are currently several large boulders perched on snow pedestals right above the climber path. These will fall this season as the snow under them melts out. Move quickly through this area.
(2) "Dunn's Roll" is on the Ingraham side of Cathedral Gap. There is rock and ice-fall hazard here. Additionally, there is slab avalanche hazard here in the early season or after fresh snow. It is a terrain trap. Move quickly through this area and don't stop until you reach Ingraham Flats.
(3) "The Ice Box." This is the area immediately above Ingraham Flats as you traverse climbers' right below an active icefall to gain the Disappointment Cleaver. This is the the site of the worst mountaineering accident in North American history. On June 20,1981, a large ice avalanche broke loose and buried and killed 11 climbers here. Rangers and guides frequently observe independent parties stopping and even taking breaks among the ice rubble in this section. Do not stop until you get to "The Backboard" at the toe of the Cleaver where there is a rock alcove that protects from rockfall. This is a great spot to stop and take a moment to prepare to ascend the Cleaver ( i.e, shorten rope-lengths between climbers).
(4) The Cleaver itself is prone to spontaneous and climber-induced rockfall. Pay attention to where you are in relation to other climbers and try not to climb directly under other parties. If you are above another party, take care not to knock rocks loose on them and consider waiting for them to move out of the way. Keeping your rope short so it's not touching the ground will help prevent rockfall.
(5) Seracs. The route above the Cleaver changes throughout the season and year to year, but there are usually sections where the climbers' path crosses under seracs (large towers of ice). Seracs can collapse at any moment. Recognize where the route crosses under seracs and serac run-out zones and move quickly through these zones.
(6) Other climbers! The DC is the busiest route on Mount Rainier. You most likely will be sharing the route with several other independent climbing parties as well as guided parties. Be aware that other people present a hazard: They can cause rock and ice-fall. A falling rope team can floss other teams off of the route. Try to avoid being directly underneath another party in areas with rockfall or unprotected falling hazard. Also, understand that there are safe and unsafe places to pass other people on the route. Use good judgment and communicate with others.
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| A busy 4th of July on the DC. |
As you can see, the DC has quite a bit of objective hazard, particularly involving rock and ice-fall. It is the responsibility of climbers to accept or deny a certain amount of risk, and know how to recognize and move efficiently through these areas to mitigate their exposure to those risks. Climb safely.
