Ingraham Direct Route Conditions June 2, 2018

The Ingraham Direct is still the route of choice for climbing via Camp Muir. There are several large crevasses between Ingraham Flats and 12,000' that may become impassable and force the route over to the Disappointment Cleaver soon but at this point the Ingraham Direct is the best choice.

The guides have started to prepare the Cleaver for the eventual shift but that route is not recommended at this time. This steep snow slopes near 12,000' have a faint trail but climbing that area when the snow is frozen will require the utmost care. Any slip could easily produce a catastrophic fall.

That's not to say the Ingraham is without it's challenges. Currently the main difficulties lie between 11,400' and 11,800'. The route travels through a heavily crevassed and steep area and several large crevasses must be crossed on ever-thinning snow bridges.



A climbing party crosses a crevasse on the Ingraham Glacier.



A climbing party above several large crevasses.

 

A climbing team crosses a large crevasse.

The route above 12,000' is a very direct shot towards the crater rim, especially for Mt. Rainier standards. That still means there's over 2,000 vertical feet of steep, glaciated terrain to the summit. But the climbing is rewarding and the views down the Nisqually and Ingraham glaciers are fantastic.

Climb safe!