After a spring storm last week, the Emmons is seeing regular ascents via a new route. Over the prior weeks climbers were ascending the Emmons via the corridor with a traverse (climber's right) through the lower alpine meadow to the Winthrop shoulder. With the recent snow reset a new route has been established up the climber's left hand side of the Emmons Glacier.
Leading to the top of the corridor the route continues straight up, zig zagging up and over several crevasses. After climbing pass the large 12,500' crevasse the route traverses back to the climber's right and picks up the old route around 13,000'. Climbers are still end-running the upper burgshrund with a long traverse along the north face of the summit crater before punching it straight up to the top.
Overall the route is in good climbing condition, but will begin to see some changes as the daytime temperatures increase and freezing levels rise. The upper mountain snowpack (above 12,500') is still variable with firm scoured surface conditions and isolated pockets of shallow wind drifted soft slabs. Snow conditions below 12,500' are generally on a corn-cycle with firm icy snow in the early morning and softer, slushier snow by midday. Be careful and suspicious of crossings, there is evidence and reports of climbers punching in new holes near crevasse crossings during the descents.
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| Emmons Climbing Route as of 6/26/2018 |
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| View of climbers ascending the route |
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| Climbers descending from the summit along the burgshrund traverse. |
