Checking the Weather

A week of warm sunny weather made some big changes to the landscape around the park. The snowmelt has been rapid around places like Paradise. Small patches that would usually be covered this time of year are already snow free. The mountain has seen its own fair share of snow melt, but the effects have been less dramatic considering the larger snow pack up high. Climbers have been reaching the summit on a regular basis, and high camps have been busy with daily visitation.
Checking the weather can seem like a waist of time when the forecast says sunshine. Over this weekend and into next week the summer like days have given way to more inclement and unsettled conditions. Low level clouds with this type of forecast can move in and out around the mountain unexpectedly making it difficult to sometime impossible to know where your going. Freezing levels can fluctuate several thousands of feet turning rain into snow. Take the time to check the Weather Forecast. It is a valuable tool when planning your trip to Mount Rainier.

Changing Seasons

As the early season weather continues to change over from winter, everyone is starting to get that "spring fever."  Visitation to the park is slowly starting to increase with thoughts of getting out of the house for those long awaited recreational activities. Enthusiasm along with a sunny forecast can leave many of us unprepared.  The park undergoes many changes as spring arrives and the weather can be variable and unforgiving. Winter like conditions are still very much apart of the weather and can show up unexpectedly. Make sure you are prepared to stay the night with food water and shelter even if your only going out for a day trip. White out conditions from snow fall and low level clouds are common and can take you by surprise. Having the appropriate navigation tools and knowing how to use them to get yourself out is paramount. Be prepared as you head out into the park this spring and make the most out that "spring fever"

Climbing Ranger Ascending the Zipper on Lane Peak

Cayuse Pass is now open for your driving pleasure.   Also - the road from 410 to White River Campground is tentatively scheduled to open on May 20th.  Stay tuned for more updates on that!

In other news, Climbing Rangers are back training for the upcoming season. They have been getting out on the mountain assessing conditions and sharpening their rescue skills. Expect to see more blog updates on climbing routes as their training season winds down in a couple of weeks and the climbing season ramps up.

Self-Registration for climbing will continue until memorial day weekend.  Self registration can be found in the Old Paradise Ranger Station located directly above the upper Paradise Parking Lot.

Muir Webcam and Road Access

Warmer days and some sunny spring weather have made it possible to get some much needed work done.  Plows, loaders, and chainsaws are busy clearing roads around the park.  Every year fallen debris like trees, rocks, and yep, lots of snow, takes workers several weeks to clear for safe travel.  For the most up to date road conditions around the park go to the Park Access tab above and check out the links to Mount Rainier's Road Conditions site and Washington State Department of Transportation's site. 


In other news the Camp Muir webcam is back online! Once again you can see where your going before you get there. Always a helpful tool when planing your trip. Remember to always travel prepared because conditions can change, even on a sunny day.

Don't forget about the other webcams around the park as well. To view a list of all the available webcams go to the camera view selection site. If you want to see what is going on right now at Camp Muir follow this link: Camp Muir Webcam.

Also, our blog is starting to take shape again for the 2016 season.  We're revamping the route condition beta with new photos taken on 04/18/2016.   If you want to see older photos, please check out the archive on the conditions page in the lower right hand corner.  These older posts can shed light on what the route of your choice might be like in August or September if that's when you're planning on climbing.

We're looking forward to another awesome season on the mountain! 

2016 Climbing Permits: Walk-up Only

Due to a "critical failure of the park's existing reservation system during a recent storm event" the park will not be accepting nor processing reservations for any wilderness permits this season.  

Wilderness Camping to be First-come, First-served

This means only walk-up permits will be issued for climbing on Mount Rainier this summer.  Any reservations already received will be returned unprocessed and fees will be refunded.  Please see the press release above for more details.

In the past we've recommended reserving a permit for parties who don't have flexible travel dates and want particular sites during popular times (weekends in late-July and early-August).  This year, since reservations are not a possibility, here are some recommendations:

- Add an extra day to your trip so that your climb could start either a day ahead, or a day behind the original start date of your climb and thus opening up more possibilities to fit your party in.

- Register (must be in-person) as early as possible for your climb.  The Climbing Information Center in Paradise is open from 7:00 to 4:30 this summer and the White River Ranger Station will be open from 7:30 to 5:00.  Permits can be issued up to one day before the start of your climb. 

- Be familiar with the different camping zones up high on the mountain so you can make alternative plans if your first choice of camping location is full. 

Endless Winter

March 12th

Winter has made a strong come back the past few days at Mount Rainier National Park. The series of frontal systems impacting the area are forecast to continue for the next several days as well, leaving up to 2 feet of snow in the Paradise area by Monday! It is not time to put away the skis or snowboards just yet!

Snow Profile results from Alta Vista 3-12-16

With all that new snow comes excellent skiing conditions, as well as the threat of avalanches and getting disoriented above the tree line in wintery conditions. Climbing Rangers were out and about today assessing conditions and digging a test profile to see what was happening in the snow pack. For those of you who follow the Northwest Avalanche Center, it was nothing that the forecasters have not been saying for several days now. The profile revealed a series of crusts, interspersed with melt forms and rounded grains. This comes as a result of various warmer periods and rain events, along with a few colder snow events. The one thing of note in the profile, was a strong crust approximately 16 cm below the surface. This surface was quite hard (knife hardness for you avalanche aficionados out there), and the snow on top of it was quite soft. The good news is that the current storm came in with cold temperatures, and the snow fall started gradually. Tests showed very little re-activity, and the fluffy and cold surface snow simply sluffed off, stopping quickly and did not entrain deeper snow.

All of that said, the forecast for the next several days includes a winter weather advisory, with significant snowfall amounts and moderate winds. What does all of this mean? Well, tomorrow, Sunday the 13th, the avalanche danger rating is moving to high for the near and above tree line zones. A high avalanche danger day means that natural avalanches are likely, and human triggered avalanches are very likely. Much of the problem over the coming days will likely be storm slab avalanches and wind slab avalanches on aspects that are leeward to the prevailing wind direction. All of this information may seem like a bit of "doom and gloom", but fear not, good skiing and snow shoeing can be had even on high avalanche danger days with proper terrain selection and careful travel.

So pack those winter clothes, map/compass/gps, skis or board as well as your avalanche rescue gear and come on up for some winter fun while it lasts! Spring is just around the corner, and soon will be the days where we are all dreaming of powder skiing. So come take advantage of this seemingly endless winter here at Mt. Rainier!

-Peter

Sunshine and Avalanches

February 24th

Note the clean crown line,
indicative of slab avalanches .

After a wintery weekend at Mount Rainier, the clouds parted and the sun came out yesterday. However, along with the sun came strong easterly flow, producing moderate winds in the Paradise area. The temperatures stayed low yesterday, and the weekend snow was still quite soft, allowing it to be transported by the wind. Climbing rangers were out doing snow observations yesterday and noted blowing snow, and wind transport onto west and southwest aspects. The wind can provide for dramatic effects on avalanche conditions, scouring some places, and leaving large depositions in others. These depositions can be quite firm, and create the potential for slab avalanches.

Red pin near the "n" in Point
 is the avalanche location.
Brown switchbacking line is
common skin track up
Panorama Point

Yesterday, and today's NWAC avalanche forecast called for this possibility. Wind loading is a common occurrence around here in the winter time, with the typical wind flow for this area coming from the southwest, which transports snow to north-southeast aspects. One can almost set their watch to it if a windy storm passes through. Yesterday's occurrence is a little more rare, wind slab formation on west-southwest aspects. Today while out patrolling the Paradise area, climbing rangers noted a substantial wind slab avalanche on a west facing aspect, at approximately 6,800 feet. While this avalanche was not likely to bury anyone, had it gone slightly farther, over another roll over, it could have been much more disastrous. And an unsuspecting skier or snowshoer in the wrong place at the wrong time certainly could have been injured by this avalanche.   Similar aspects or wind loaded features should be suspect, and avoided while traveling in the backcountry until the wind slab problem has had a chance to settle. 

Just remember, when coming up to go for a ski or snowshoe,
not only check the current forecast but go back a few days to find out what conditions have been occurring on the mountain recently. While the current forecast is valuable, knowing the history of what has been affecting the snowpack and conditions can be equally important. The link to the Northwest Avalanche Center, above, is a great resource for mountain weather and avalanche forecasts. They do great work! The sun should be out tomorrow with spring like conditions, so grab your sunscreen, avalanche gear, skis or board and come on up for some winter fun!

-Peter