DC Route Update

Sunrise from Muir Rocks 

The trail from Muir is punched in and well defined with all the holiday traffic and beautiful weather. Expect delays in bottleneck areas during the weekends and clear weather forecasts. As the crevasses open more, the trail continues to traverse them - avoiding large steps across where evidence of the old boot pack still exists. Follow the wands and newest boot pack away from the widest part of the crevasse. X'd wands mark old paths. 

Route view from Ingraham Flats

Heading up from Ingram Flats, the trail gains elevation to 11,400’ above a vertical crack before traversing down under the "Ice Box" onto the Cleaver. As you switch back up the Cleaver remember to shorten your ropes and tread lightly to prevent knocking rocks on climbers below.

Trail cut through penitents leading onto the cleaver

There are still some snow patches where the trail narrows considerably due to solar melt and foot traffic. At the top of the cleaver breath taking views are observed as the horizon extends far into eastern Washington. The top of the Cleaver is a great place to take a break. 

View towards Eastern Washington

From the Cleaver follow the trail alongside a 40’ tall overhanging ice wall leading into a short "stair case" chopped into the glacier. 

Traversing snow wall

At 12,900’ a snow bridge crosses a long traversing crevasse. This plug is above a long horizontal crack, where the trail crosses a flat ledge with snow steps on the far side. Use caution as this feature is thin. 

Snow Bridge at 12,900'

From 13,000’ up, there are several snow bridges, but these crevasses have fairly comfortable crossings. The rocky rim identifies the summit. A reminder that this is only half way, ensure there are still reserves for the trip down!

Route above DC

On your decent from one of the most spectacular views in Washington, remember to give crevasses the respect they deserve. Tread lightly on the cleaver and keep a smile on your face.

Muir Snowfield Update

Looking down the Snowfield from Camp Muir. Note the surface conditions.

It's been a slow start to the summer season, the stellar high pressure has yet to arrive and temperatures have fluctuated all over the place. Sadly, the unusually cool temperatures for the last couple weeks were not enough to help the lower mountain recover from the record high temperatures in spring. The snow pack at Paradise is sitting at about 3% of normal for July 5th (about 1 inch instead of the normal 38 inches).

The trails at Paradise are mostly clear until shortly before Glacier Vista. Then the snow gets patchy--and continues to be so until just past Pebble Creek, where it becomes all snow. Please be careful to step off the snow onto trail. Our beautiful alpine meadows easily get trampled during this transition period and Panorama Face is seeing severe erosion from people cutting corners.

And in terms of the skiing...well, don't come with high expectations and maybe consider leaving the skis at home. The sun cups are growing and there is a nice, thin, consistent dirt layer from Camp Muir down to Pebble Creek that will sandpaper the wax off your base. However, boot glissading is in its prime season now. It sure is nice to cut that extra weight off your feet this time of year and go light up to Muir. Don't forget to enjoy the view on your breaks.

Please remember, that weather changes fast up here on Rainier and the snowfield can quickly become socked in. Despite the boot track and things melting out, it is easy to become disoriented and lost on the snowfield when you are in a cloud. Please come with at least a GPS to navigate these conditions.

Full camps!

The high camps (both Muir and Schurman) have basically filled up for Friday and Saturday nights.  Here's how it breaks down: There are 110 people allowed at Camp Muir each night.  There are 48 people allowed at Camp Schurman.

Camp Muir and the Muir Corridor
Currently, Camp Muir is FULL Thursday, July 4th, and Friday, July 5th.  Even for walk-up permits.  The only chance of getting a permit is if someone comes down early from their climb and checks out at the desk so that we can avail the numbers in the system.  It is likely that permits for Saturday night will all be taken up by early on Friday morning.

Common overflow areas for Camp Muir are the Muir Snowfield and Ingraham Flats.  There are 36 people allowed at each of those spots.  Right now the system shows limited availability for those sites.

Camp Schurman and the Emmons/Winthrop Corridor
Camp Schurman is also full for Friday and Saturday. The overflow area for Camp Schurman is Emmons Flats. There are only a few sites available at Emmons Flats and these are likely to be full shortly.

Single Push Climbers
All climbers are required to get a backcountry permit for their trip, INCLUDING single push climbing groups. If the campsites are all full along your intended route, then you will not be issued a climbing permit. Climbers found on the mountain without a permit will be turned around by rangers.

Resource Protection and Visitor Safety

The current limits on campers at each camp each night has been in place for a few decades.  These numbers represent the maximum limit of people that each area can handle with regards to resource protection and visitor safety.  For example at Camp Muir, when we have more than 110 people camping, the number of climbers on the route gets so large that it becomes unsafe.  Rockfall from climbers above, long wait times at pinch points or technical crossings, as well as lines for the bathrooms (and managing the human waste collection systems) can all reach un-enjoyable and un-sustainable conditions.  When the limits on the wilderness areas reach their maximum visitor's experiences aren't as fun or safe.  Please respect these limits.

Reservations

To make a reservation for the coming weeks and ensure a spot on the mountain, please visit this site.  About 60 percent of the total number of sites are available for reservation.  Please make your reservation two weeks in advance.  

Emmons-Winthrop Update 7/2/2019

Track Log from 6/30/2019

The Emmons-Winthrop route is in good shape as the season progresses, with a few places of note that Rangers encountered while climbing on June 30th.The first is the traverse above the Corridor. The route traverses climbers' right around two bulges of blue ice. This traverse, while not technical, would be consequential if a fall occurred. Parties might consider placing running protection through this section. As the snow melts, it will be difficult to protect this traverse without ice screws.

Possible variations at approx 13,100' on the Emmons Winthrop Route.  To the left is the steeper bergshrund crossing, and to the right is the easy traverse towards the saddle.

The next point of note is around 13,100'. The trail splits and some parties have been going climbers left and directly up the bergschrund. This variation is steep and may require two-tool climbing. The main route branches towards climber's right and traverses through much easier terrain towards the saddle and eventually the summit.

A large crevasse crossing at 13,500' on the Emmons-Winthrop Route.  In this photo the ranger has left the boot-track to utilize a safer snow bridge.

The weather has been changing rapidly on the upper mountain, ranging from thunderstorms to June-uary snowstorms! There has been 3" of new snow at Camp Schurman and up to 10" reported on the upper mountain in the past two days.  The new snow has complicated route-finding somewhat, so be prepared to choose your own adventure should you get the opportunity to re-establish the route!  It's been a good reminder that climbers attempting Mt. Rainier should be prepared for cold temps and decreased visibility regardless of what the month of the year may suggest.

It's beautiful up here, and we expect a busy weekend as folks come up during the long weekend.  Please remember to be prepared, tread lightly, and leave-no-trace during your visits to your National Parks this weekend!

July-uary on the DC

 

Snow on Cathedral Rocks and the Cowlitz Glacier

 

 

Climbing Rangers often say that summer doesn't start on Mount Rainier unitl the 4th of July. This summer it looks like we'll be pushing right up to that date before dry, warm weather moves over the region.

 

The GFS weather model showing accumulated percipitation up to 5:00AM July 4.

 

 

A persistent low pressure over the Northwest has lead to cool and showery weather over the mountian for much of the past week. The pattern has been remarkably similar day-to-day with clear skies in the morning, followed by cloud build up and showers in the afternoon.

 

A stronger pulse of bad weather brought snow showers in the early morning hours of July 2nd. We had three inches of snow accumulation at Camp Muir and guides reported up to six inches on the upper mountain.

 

New snow at Camp Muir 2019.07.02

 

 

This cool weather will keep the route conditions good as we go into the long holiday weekend. We expect large numbers of climbers Thursday through Sunday so please plan on having other climbers on the mountain with you, even on less-popular routes like the Kautz glacier.

 

 

The high camps are at full reservation levels so if you are looking to get a walk up permit please arrive in the Park early and have your climbing fee documentation handy. The will speed up the registration process for everyone.

We are always at maximum levels for our popluar climbing routes during this, the busiest, time of the year. A flexible itinerary will increase the chances of getting the camp of your choice.

 

Thanks and have a safe, fun Independence Day.

Disappointment Cleaver 6/29/19

Weekend crowds on the route as seen from the top of the cleaver at 12,400'. 

Cooler temperatures and unsettled weather have kept the crowds down over the last few days but clear weather last weekend brought about a full Camp Muir and many successful climbers on the route. With a forecast of moderate winds, cooler temps and a slight chance of thunderstorms for this upcoming weekend, climbers should come prepared for a wide variety of conditions.

From blue bird skies to blizzard like white out, rangers saw the full gamut of weather this past week and want to make sure teams are showing up prepared to handle the elements as they set off from Paradise and from Camp Muir. Even though clear weather may be seen while stepping out of the parking lot or Camp Muir, parties should ensure they have the proper equipment and know how to navigate and survive an afternoon storm. GPS, maps, compass, stove, tent and sleeping bag are just a few of the extra items that can make all of the difference if you and your team find yourselves in a tough situation.

Photo of DC tracklog. Notice the two variations from the top of the cleaver. The left hand option
 is no longer being maintained as the right hand route is climbing very well.

Over the last 10 days, the DC route has shifted above 12,500'. Where the old route had been traversing west towards Camp Comfort, it now trends more to the North (climbers right). Guide services have now pulled all of the wands and fixed protection off the old route due to the overhead hazard and icy exposure of the old route.,  

12,900' crevasse that now has a ladder in place. 

Despite low snow conditions between Camp Muir and the top of the Disappointment Cleaver at 12,400', the upper mountain is climbing very well. Guide services installed one ladder at 12,900' to manage a crevasse that is beginning to open. No other adjuncts or fixed equipment can be found along the route.

Choke points like these can, and do, create bottle necks on a busy days so teams should strive to leave early, move efficiently and plan ahead for congestion along the route. Despite nearly 140 climbers along the route last Saturday, teams were respectful and courteous to one another which allowed for fluid transitions and smooth climbing. 

Rockfall hazard along the route as you exit the Ingraham Glacier and
 gain the Disappointment Cleaver

Rockfall hazard and overhead icefall remain the largest concern for the lower half of the route. Teams should ensure that they are not exposed to rockfall or icefall before they pull off the track to take breaks. Many of the areas exposed to overhead hazard are unavoidable so deliberate, efficient movement through the terrain is the only way to manage it. Even in the dark, keep an eye out for rocks and ice along the trail and ensure you are not climbing directly above or below another party when climbing on loose rock. 

The climbing season is now in full swing up on Mt. Rainier and both the DC and Emmons routes have been full over the course of the last few weekends. Last weekend was dominated by clear weather up high and light-moderate winds which created very pleasant, very stable conditions for those that braved the low level clouds in the parking lot. This weekend will undoubtedly produce some great weather and conditions for climbing however, teams need to come prepared for the chance of thunderstorms and rapidly changing weather that is common for this time of year.